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The Oil Soup

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Everything posted by The Oil Soup

  1. This should do the trick! http://www.monroe.com/downloads/install-instructions-guides/MonroeMountingLengthSpecifications.pdf
  2. That is looking fabulous!
  3. On my truck the oil pressure gauge feed comes from the #2 bearing oil passage. It doesn't seem like there is enough clearance at #4 behind the starter.
  4. Here is a link to make your own press. This is what I did on mine with the new springs.http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/chassis-reversing-spring-eyes.90824/
  5. The front spring hanger can be moved up with a piece of angle mounted on top of the frame. On the front axle the spring eyes can be reversed on the B series trucks, not sure of C series. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/chassis-reversing-spring-eyes.90824/
  6. The front spring hanger can be moved up with a piece of angle mounted on top of the frame. On the front axle the spring eyes can be reversed on the B series trucks, not sure of C series. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/chassis-reversing-spring-eyes.90824/
  7. You might pull the valve covers and have a look there.
  8. You can also check the resistor to make sure it is dropping the input to the coil by 3 to 5 volts.
  9. I used the dropped tie rod ends from Speedway but I think Sid carries them also. I purchased new springs for the front from 59bisquik's source and made a replacement drag link from a Ford tie rod.
  10. With 3" Sid's axle, reversing spring eyes and removing second shortest leaf mine was lowered 6". Not sure if the suspension on the '50 is the same as 53'.
  11. Here is a resource for visors. http://www.klassiccarparts.com/Pages/ExteriorVisors.aspx
  12. Mine has a section of garden hose screwed to the underside of the cab floor to cushion it.
  13. On start up with some choke mine will run at 40psi, after a few minutes it drops to the 10-20psi range. I have dropped and cleaned the pan and inside the lifter area. The oil pressure regulator valve was fine and the oil pickup moves freely. Using 5w-30 with MMO, looks like it's time for 30w.
  14. Mine's an early B4B made in San Leandro in late '52. What rear fenders are on the truck?
  15. Mine wobbles slightly, seems to work fine. '53 should be a B4B.
  16. Mine is a '53 B4B so not sure of the differences. On the rear front mount move the spring hanger up approximately 4 1/2" and on the rear mount use a shorter jeep shackle and flip it. You will have to relieve the lower edge of the bed in places to clear parts of the suspension. Also remove the second to the shortest leaf in the spring pack and you may have to c notch the frame as that will lower the rear about 5 1/2". Note: This information is intended for entertainment purposes only as actual application of it may incur the scorn of those with stock suspension or some members running 6 volt only.
  17. I did mine and froze the bulb in a small plastic container then used JB Weld to secure the new line to the gauge. Seems to work fine and checked to be accurate with the boil test.
  18. I have rusty hopes (member here) disc brakes up front and fabbed a bracket to accommodate the MC. Use the search function at the top of the page, plenty of members have done the update and have pics.
  19. So from the pics it look like the sides only bow out at the bottom edge. Do you have the four pieces of c channel that span the width of the bed? They should stabilize that lower edge.
  20. I would remove the osb, perhaps that is distorting the side panels.
  21. The windshield has to be laminated, all the others can be tempered which is much stronger.
  22. I think it's perfectly appropriate at this time for me to state the obvious.......Electrolux really sucks!
  23. I put a 93 Cherokee rear axle (drum) 3:55 ratio on. The drive shaft did bolt up after all. The front yoke was gummed up with old grease, after it was cleaned it slid out to mate up with the axle. On the front axle I purchased new springs and reversed the eyes lowering another 3". I did use the Ford dropped tie rod ends and fabbed a new drag link from an old Ford tie rod with new moog ends. On the rear axle I raised the front spring mount and added shorter jeep shackles and flipped them. I'll send pics. Gary

    1. hd50pan

      hd50pan

      Thanks for the comeback, I guess I will not know what I will be up against till I get the axle installed as far as the drag link remedy goes.Glad to hear you got the issue with the rear end solved. I went the flipped rear shackle on the rear looks great. I am dealing with the dreaded steering wheel removal now,will look for a puller. I will stay in touch sounds like we both have the same idea about how we want the rig to look,thanks again Gary, best regards,Gordy.

  24. I used axle from a 93 Jeep Cherokee (3.55) and the master cylinder and proportioning valve also.
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