kencombs

Here’s my little girl. Broken leg and all 24 yours after I got her she jumped off the porch. Found out there are doggie orthopedic surgeons so she got a plate and cast. That was 2022

No photos here either. You should be able to tell the engine displacement by stroke alone, assuming the head measures 25 1/2 inches as the variations of that engine had stroke lengths unique to the long block. At least that's what my quick look of the Motors data says.

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In addition to the pump, it will help to provide a vacuum 'storage' container. Storage in quotes because it seems silly to store nothing! Anyway , a vacuum storage can can be found on several older vehicles on the brake system, or make one from a piece of large PVC pipe, two caps and a couple of fittings. Most PVC caps are thick enough to drill and tap for small pipe threads. Add a one way check valve to the line. This will even help a single pump equipped engine run vacuum wipers.

Anti-seize compound on the hub/wheel centers and light coat on the wheel to hub meeting surface for me. Some recommend on the threads too, and I've done that, but you need to modify the torque specs with such well lubed threads. Might break a stud or bolt. It lasts much better that oil, and is intended for that use.

The arm shape and material is not important, as long as the cam contact area is in the same place relative to the mounting pad. The pics seem to show them in the same area.

My guess also. Pedal must fully return after each application. Springs, binding or push rod adjusment are likely causes.

Yes they where. I don't see any cooler stuff on that one, just the throttle pressure rod looking like one.

I think so too, as that seems to be the torque converter laying to the left of the trans, with the hub pointing up open to the elements. Those are really good 2 spd transmissions and a much better converter that the others.

There is also another ''scrub' term that is even more important IMO. Scrub radius, the arc the wheel area in contact with the road describes when turned off straight ahead. It's primarily influenced by kingpin inclination and a vertical line through the center of the tire. Ideally the tire would rotate around a single point. Very few modified vehicles do though. Wheel offset and tire diameter can change that. From past experience I can tell you with certainty, a large scrub radius really messes with the driving feel and tire wear.

Yeah, I'll probably do that, even though Toyota has used lug centric wheels with a fair amount of success. But that requires right and tight specs during wheel manufacture.

I think my original hubs will work with the Explorer rotor with a tiny bit of lathe work on the pilot hole and/or the hub register. I do have a nephew with a machine shop that can do that for me, or if I can talk the local auto parts place into it, that could be done on a regular brake lathe. Several of the kit mounting plates I've seen in pics have short tubing spacers welded on to locate it laterally. I won't know for sure what's needed until I mock it up with a plywood plate.

Dad always kept a normal cluster shaft, cut to the correct length for common trans. He ground a short taper on each end to aid in starting it. In those days is was the 55-64 Chevy and Ford 3spds. use it to drive out the installed shaft and use the 'real' one to drive out the dummy. Or, since he did this almost every day , he could just fill the gear with needles and lots of sticky wheel bearing grease and put it together I used the cheat shaft.

Yes, I plan on it.

Thinking of fabbing my own brackets but I'm conflicted as to material dimensions and actual material. I can weld and grind steel but really accurate cuts or shaping is difficult without a mill. It would be nice to use aluminum as I lack steel machining equipment in my shop but could cut and shape aluminum accurately with my woodworking equipment. I've cut 1" plate on my table saw a few times and 1/4" a lot. Router and shaper also work well at lower speeds and really rigid hold downs. The only issue would be welding if spacers need to be tacked on. I think steel brackets are normally 1/4, 5/16 or 3/8" thick. Is that what those of you that have purchased them have seen? Thinking of 3/8 aluminum, 6061 as it is strong/rigid, readily available and not too expensive. Comments? I have a pair of Explorer disks that I think will work. These are just for fitting as I saved them from a brake job I did. If their size works out I'll get new ones. Also have a pair of calipers, near new from a Mitsubishi truck. They are nice and compact and have nice mounting arrangements. Should be good for the application as Mits used two of each on each front wheel to stop a truck that was 14K loaded. I'll be using one per side.

Flatheads winning races, and a six at that! Wonder what Henry would think of that?

Yes, all.

According to my old Hollander, all 51-56 Plymouth manual trans interchange as well as 53-55 Dodge.

Yep, they are available in a lot of places. But, you can anneal the old ones to soften them and they'll seal better.

I've seen a lot of old pickups with clamp-on trailer hitches, back in the day. Anyone else remember those? A couple of shaped steel plates attached with bolts clamping bumper in the middle? I remember day towing a fair load of railroad timbers with a 49 Plymouth with one of those. Building fence at a newly purchased farm and needed to 'git ur done', and that's what he had.

I also have never seen tow ratings. When I get mine on the road I'll be guided by the GVW. Since I don't have a GCVW available I'll add a few pounds and stop there. The fluid couplings may be the biggest issue, other that HP and overall weight. They have a fair amount of slippage designed in, far more than modern torque converters. That slippage will create heat in the oil. Probably not an issue for short periods but then longer it's operated the hotter it will get.

Stop leak in the radiator to stop an oil leak? How does that work? Or was it not oil? I'm guessing it was coolant leaking from a head bolt that did not have sealant on the threads. Then the engine heat cooked away everything but the glycol. Then it looks, smells and taste different than when it went into the radiator. Am I close???

OK, I'll give my 2cents on the trans oil discussion. IMO it all depends on the condition or the synchronizers themselves. Good, tight, little wear, good grooves in the contacting faces, those would get ATF in my trans. More wear, may require something closer to the original. I base this on the factory recommendation from around the mid 60s. The A833 in my 65 Dart came with Type A from the factory, as did most. There where a few complaints of a gear rattle in neutral from some owners so Mopar suggested a change to 80w90 for those only. That little Dart was the best shifting standard trans I've ever driven. That's why the one waiting to go in my 56 pickup already has ATF in it.