kencombs

It may be a combination of adjustment/alignment of the e-brake coupled with a fluid leak from the rear seal. Just like wheel brakes, oils on the lining will cause grabbing. Counterintuitive, but slick oil makes them stick!

Lots of good advice here. Removing as much rust as possible by mechanical means is best IMO. I use a cup brush also, 6" on my big grinder, 3" on smaller grinders, regular wire wheels (not cup), maybe a little media blast in crevices, whatever gets you to mostly clean with some you just can't convince to come off. The rust and paint removald disks on a little grinder work well. these are also available in smaller sizes for die grinders and drills. Then apply Ospho or similar. I vary from others advice at that point as I'm a big fan of Epoxy primer applied with a brush on horizontal surfaces. Since it cures, not drys, heavy deposits still become firm all the way to the bottom fairly quickly. Some drying paints will take forever to do that. Epoxy is much more flexible than some of the miracle products and doesn't chip. After that cover all seams with a sealer. The sealer is after the epoxy 'cause the epoxy fills small crevices better. I don't use the expensive sealer, just the solvent based tubes from Auto Zone, that's about all I buy there. Then apply a sound deadener and insulation of your liking. Lots of choices there too. Some swear by peel and stick flashing from the home stores, some swear at it. Most of the stuff made for cars is either butyl or tar based, like flashing. Other choices are the available. I just pick what fits the vehicle and my budget. My truck will get at least 3-4 different kinds, roof cab walls, floor, firewall under seat will have different finished. May try Snipers suggestion above.

Well, I learned to drive on a 58 Ford, new drivers ed car at school, Dad's car that I learned most on was a 54 Dodge, then 57 Plymouth. I don't remember seeing a seat belt in any car in the wild until the early '60s and that was rare. I know Ford offered them in either 55 or 56, but optional and few takers. Dad's new Fury III in 65 had them, So not different parents, different age.

Yes I was speaking about the human moving, not the car. The early shoulder belts were almost never used as you described as most folks didn't like the restriction. So, they donned them loose enough to reach the radio, heater controls etc. Thus the movement I mentioned. Even worse, due to lack of education and laws, most were worn under the drivers rear! Being a new driver well before lap or shoulder belts, I didn't develop the buckle up habit until much later. And, it still isn't automatic for me. Sometimes I find myself buckling as I drive after realizing I forgot to do so.

I'm kinda on the fence with catalog vs computer. It all depends on the quality of the computer info first. Did they digitize all of the catalog info, or just the application and p/n? If they skipped the dimension info that's bad news! That is where the paper version shown, not just a bearing number for instance, but it's ID/OD/Width. Second is the quality of the computer app used to access the data. If it allows searching in something other that make,model,year it can be better than the book. If not, more bad news. For instance when searching for a heater core I found no way to search the computer data at Orielly's even though the size information is in the data base. For example look at the online catalogs from bearing companies. No M/M/Y required, just specs. Done correctly the computer version could be faster and more accurate than paper. Unfortunately creating such code is expensive and has limited use as most parts sold are not for our type of vehicles, but late model daily drivers. FWIW , The online info at Rockauto is just about as good as it gets. Compared to Orielly's, Advance etc it is outstanding. Another example of good design is the way John Deere has done there app. Not only can you find the PN you need by M/M/Y ( and s/n ) but you can use the PN to identify every application of that PN in other JD equipment. That would be equivalent to using a trans gear PN to identify other Mopars that could be donors. Really nice when dealing with used parts!

I used to use lye, (or Drano as it is almost pure lye) as a stripper and cleaner. But it has become really hard to buy locally in bulk. Even hardware stores keep it locked up or hidden away. Apparently it is a precursor chemical for some meth recipes.' I have a restaurant quality two burner countertop electric range and a stainless pan that just fits both burners. Makes a great mini-hot tank, when I can find the chemicals. Grease, oil, paint, it all comes off with time and 210 degrees in there. A quick soak in vinegar, and even the rust is gone.

Punch or drill a hole in the seals metal rim to insert a large sheet metal screw or two. Use them to lever it out.

My spline count is 16 and a 1.250 diameter. Only usable in your case if you wanted to have a shop weld the male part into your shaft to gain the late u-joint.

Spline OD and count. Bolt hole spacing and size.

I may have the part. Need more info to know if it will work. It's from a 56 Pickup w/3spd. I'll be using the back of the driveshaft to build one that fits an A833OD and my stock differential. I know the 56 and 47 u-joints are different but if the bolt arrangement is the same as well as the spline size and count one could maybe upgrade to the later, easier to find joint.

I didn't mead 'repair' in the car, just testing. That is as easily done on the car as on the bench. And without the weightlifting workout.

You can't really do anything on the bench with the starter assembled that can't be done on the engine. Remove all wires then test solenoid windings, contact resistance etc. But all wires should be disconnected as shorts in wiring may be misconstrued. If I were working on it the first thing would be to unhook the wires then make up a couple of test leads. Prably 12ga wire with clips long enough to reach a battery, either in the car or just one to test. clip one lead on the solenoid 'small post' and the other end to the battery. At this point polarity doesn't matter. Now use the other lead clipped to the other 'small post' and momentarily touch the other end to the other battery post. If it clicks it is likely working, if not use your meter to test for opens or grounds in the solenoid coil. There are other tests, but that's where I'd start.

clean it well, really well then spray with auto trans fluid, the bright red stuff. Now clean again and dust with corn starch. If's a crack it will show as a red line in the white corn starch. Cheap guys dye penetrant inspection. Easier to do on horizontal surfaces, but might work on the side of the block. Or search for 'dye pentrant kit' online. Lots of them out there, some that even include a black light and the fluids that glow. Much cheaper and easier than MagnaFlux and works well on cast iron cracks as well as aluminum and other metals

Bing, do you have a wiring diagram for your car? I don't have one to reference so I'll have to ask: What is the actual path from the generator, which serves as ground, to the start circuit? If it passes through the switch and your switch isn't 'on' or inoperative, you would have no ground for that post on the solenoid. Please try grounding it with a jumper to remove all doubt.

Is that a tire dept gauge? Sure looks like it. Clever adaptation of use if it is!

My hearing is so bad I never use the beep, just set the dial on the lowest ohm setting and watch the meter. More info to learn that way anyway.

Have you checked that upper left wire (the one that should go to the generator) to be sure it is grounded? Or just attach a temporary wire to a known good ground and try it? I the solenoid pull-in circuit is dead simple, voltage in on one small terminal and out to a ground on the other and polarity doesn't matter for the purposes of a test start.

That is the reason I keep a lot of products in my shop fridge. And it is set just above freezing. Hardeners, activators etc last much longer at lower temps.

Or, same thing: https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-CBF-20-Circuit-Breaker-Automotive/dp/B00139FQLU?th=1. Marked 12v but amps is amps

Bingster, pay close attention to the red in this post. I didn't see where you grounded that post before jumping to the upper right.

I have always packed oil pumps with vaseline before installation. provides for almost instant oil pickup, been doing it since the '60s.

Excellent answer! OP, take a look at the threads on the plug, there should be a clear indication as to which ones were outside the head. Is that where it stops now? IF so, you're done!

So, the problem appears to be uneven engagement. Was the flywheel resurfaced at the time of the clutch change? Hard spots, usually indicated by blue spots on the flywheel can cause this symptom. It is possible that the symptom will get better or disappear with use. As far a play between the female and male parts, there has to be some or it wouldn't function. How much is too much is the question. I can't imagine a case where this would cause the symptom you describe, but I've been wrong before, many times!

If that 1/8" is measured at the outer rim of the plate while moving fore and aft on the shaft, it is not the source of the problem. It can't move when sandwiched between the pressure plate and flywheel. Only if it off center or out of balance will it be an issue. The 1/8" difference is size in inconsequential also IMO. Lots of pressure plates are slightly larger than their matching disk. Is your shudder actually a vibration? seems to be from the description as it changes with speed. Is this when revving in neutral or actually driving? If it is a vibration when not moving then the flywheel, pressure plate and disk are under suspicion as well as the crank pulley and internals of the engine. A badly worn pilot bushing that doesn't center the main drive gear well can also cause a vibration.

That T&C wire strand count is exactly why the power sliding doors fail so often that there are aftermarket door harnesses available. 2007 T&C owner who has changed both sides.