kencombs

I think so too, as that seems to be the torque converter laying to the left of the trans, with the hub pointing up open to the elements. Those are really good 2 spd transmissions and a much better converter that the others.

There is also another ''scrub' term that is even more important IMO. Scrub radius, the arc the wheel area in contact with the road describes when turned off straight ahead. It's primarily influenced by kingpin inclination and a vertical line through the center of the tire. Ideally the tire would rotate around a single point. Very few modified vehicles do though. Wheel offset and tire diameter can change that. From past experience I can tell you with certainty, a large scrub radius really messes with the driving feel and tire wear.

Yeah, I'll probably do that, even though Toyota has used lug centric wheels with a fair amount of success. But that requires right and tight specs during wheel manufacture.

I think my original hubs will work with the Explorer rotor with a tiny bit of lathe work on the pilot hole and/or the hub register. I do have a nephew with a machine shop that can do that for me, or if I can talk the local auto parts place into it, that could be done on a regular brake lathe. Several of the kit mounting plates I've seen in pics have short tubing spacers welded on to locate it laterally. I won't know for sure what's needed until I mock it up with a plywood plate.

Dad always kept a normal cluster shaft, cut to the correct length for common trans. He ground a short taper on each end to aid in starting it. In those days is was the 55-64 Chevy and Ford 3spds. use it to drive out the installed shaft and use the 'real' one to drive out the dummy. Or, since he did this almost every day , he could just fill the gear with needles and lots of sticky wheel bearing grease and put it together I used the cheat shaft.

Yes, I plan on it.

Thinking of fabbing my own brackets but I'm conflicted as to material dimensions and actual material. I can weld and grind steel but really accurate cuts or shaping is difficult without a mill. It would be nice to use aluminum as I lack steel machining equipment in my shop but could cut and shape aluminum accurately with my woodworking equipment. I've cut 1" plate on my table saw a few times and 1/4" a lot. Router and shaper also work well at lower speeds and really rigid hold downs. The only issue would be welding if spacers need to be tacked on. I think steel brackets are normally 1/4, 5/16 or 3/8" thick. Is that what those of you that have purchased them have seen? Thinking of 3/8 aluminum, 6061 as it is strong/rigid, readily available and not too expensive. Comments? I have a pair of Explorer disks that I think will work. These are just for fitting as I saved them from a brake job I did. If their size works out I'll get new ones. Also have a pair of calipers, near new from a Mitsubishi truck. They are nice and compact and have nice mounting arrangements. Should be good for the application as Mits used two of each on each front wheel to stop a truck that was 14K loaded. I'll be using one per side.

Flatheads winning races, and a six at that! Wonder what Henry would think of that?

Yes, all.

According to my old Hollander, all 51-56 Plymouth manual trans interchange as well as 53-55 Dodge.

Yep, they are available in a lot of places. But, you can anneal the old ones to soften them and they'll seal better.

I've seen a lot of old pickups with clamp-on trailer hitches, back in the day. Anyone else remember those? A couple of shaped steel plates attached with bolts clamping bumper in the middle? I remember day towing a fair load of railroad timbers with a 49 Plymouth with one of those. Building fence at a newly purchased farm and needed to 'git ur done', and that's what he had.

I also have never seen tow ratings. When I get mine on the road I'll be guided by the GVW. Since I don't have a GCVW available I'll add a few pounds and stop there. The fluid couplings may be the biggest issue, other that HP and overall weight. They have a fair amount of slippage designed in, far more than modern torque converters. That slippage will create heat in the oil. Probably not an issue for short periods but then longer it's operated the hotter it will get.

Stop leak in the radiator to stop an oil leak? How does that work? Or was it not oil? I'm guessing it was coolant leaking from a head bolt that did not have sealant on the threads. Then the engine heat cooked away everything but the glycol. Then it looks, smells and taste different than when it went into the radiator. Am I close???

OK, I'll give my 2cents on the trans oil discussion. IMO it all depends on the condition or the synchronizers themselves. Good, tight, little wear, good grooves in the contacting faces, those would get ATF in my trans. More wear, may require something closer to the original. I base this on the factory recommendation from around the mid 60s. The A833 in my 65 Dart came with Type A from the factory, as did most. There where a few complaints of a gear rattle in neutral from some owners so Mopar suggested a change to 80w90 for those only. That little Dart was the best shifting standard trans I've ever driven. That's why the one waiting to go in my 56 pickup already has ATF in it.

I replied to your PM. My old Hollander is kind of spotty in coverage of pre 50 Mopar stuff. But as best I can tell the V8s may be different. Sixes seem to be the same from 50 on. Probably earlier to but it doesn't cover them.

Most of the 'pumpkin's will interchange. I seem to recall that one can count the studs/nuts attaching it to the housing and if they are the same, they interchange. The axle spline count may be different but that can be remedied by changing axle gears in the dif. Changing the pumpkin and/or changing the axle gears require any gear setup. Simple unbolt and reverse to install. I'm confused with the 'housings don't match' comment. If you mean whole housing that icncludes the axles and center section, that isn't an issue if you're only swapping the pumpkin. If you mean the pumpkin housing, I doubt that the internal gears will interchange if the casting is different. If you can provide the source of the replacement, I can look up the ring and pinion interchange in my old Hollander to determine for sure.

Looks too me that the nut is removed but the bulb is corroded in place. Removing the core plug and soaking with a rust solvent the gently prying through that access is called for. A solvent that will dissolve rust would be great, maybe you could create a dam of some sort with plumber's putty to retain some evaporust around the bulb? Whatever you use, patience and time will be needed.

Surprisingly, it's still available, and only 1200 bucks.https://transmissionadapters.com/collections/mopar-1/products/wmo501-1933-1971-mopar-slant-6-to-chevy-automatic-transmission edit" the link says slant 6 but the actual page says FH.

Amen! How many 230s have you seen in forklifts, 251s in combines etc. I think every industrial I've seen had brass.

It really sounds like you have only one wire to both brake lights. Are you sure it has worked correctly at one time? Just to be sure trace the wire from both rear light brake filaments and see where they go

Park/running lights work OK? Do the front turn signals work correctly? Brake lights only light up when brakes applied? Be sure to check all four lamps and all eight filaments. Losing ground when turned too far really sounds like a bulb and socket mismatch. What bulb numbers are you using? Take a look at the orientation of the bulb contacts relative to the locking pins and slots in the socket. Troubleshooting others wiring is difficult at best, but the more info the more the guys can help.

Perfect Place for a uninsulated splice covered with marine heat shrink. It has a glue inside to seal out moisture. Pick up an old Thomas and Betts crimper. They do a great job and last forever. https://www.ebay.com/itm/305336060309?hash=item4717728995:g:oegAAOSwQmllkvom&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8Kn8CPX5zT3Tj7yQ4Ob4vBOiTFd48V%2FVxbyKSDwu%2Br4%2BOBngIo1xgNx4KvB06gXFqkkAhC9T99Qx2%2Fx6KFDxKHamSoccRl6b6ImrV5gBaD4dKsK9q3ARPZ3Qy7LpDwQm8nFx6Y%2Fjzf44hPuUdxKhLako1oTbeS%2B8ItaIAgxBx3UTggC1g5eIl91InjjTUapsbJz8UR1xLKS1yXeU75LPdeIWXZz%2BIrZQOtSXK1GVAgyBBWD4kU24dnNEKTXo2RTaSzSfedVq5OQvESY%2FKlQmAHa0jP4LTQ8wLrvgJWSYRn0pNAUVFS7MV6fl3CF2RMHw0w%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR8D52ruoYw

I had a business building built in 1917 and it originally had no electrical service but they had the foresight to bury IMC pipe in the concrete ceilings right along with the gas piping for the lights. Somewhere around 1920 electricity was available and the pulled 14ga wire to all the lights. The splices where all pigtailed/twisted over 3"! Lasted until I bought it in '95. Lots of corrosion due to water leaks but still worked.