kencombs

Yep, and that is why most, if not all marine wiring is tinned during manufacture. That blocks the oxidation. My BIL has a machine shop and makes a lot of copper items for an oil field pump maker. Everything is sent to zinc plate after fabrication, bus bars, etc.

I can assure you that planes going down are a big deal. Jobs are lost, people are prosecuted and airlines die along with the people. Wiring is not a maintenance item, it is expected to last for the life of the airplane. I spent a l o n g time working for an airline and AFAIK no aircraft failure has ever been attributed to a failed crimp connection. Unlike cars, every aircraft accident is carefully examined and the cause ascertained. If you knew the comparative cost of aircraft parts vs similar parts in another industry, that knowledge would dispel any questions about 'good enough'. It has to be great, and provably so. Just look at the attention Boeing is getting on a lost exit door opening plug. They will loose millions, in direct cost associated with a full fleet inspection , lost sales, late deliveries etc, and this is with no lives lost. There is a poster that appears in almost every aviation repair or maintenance facility I've seen. This may not be an exact quote but really close; Aviation is not in itself inherently dangerous, but to an even greater extent than the sea, it is terribly unforgiving of any carelessness, incapacity or neglect.

I've seen these before and they seem to be OK. But, I seldom splice, as I prefer the wire the correct length with crimped uninsulated terminals then two layers of shrink. One just covering the terminal and a smidgen of wire insulation, the second longer, further up the wire. IMO, that provides a little more protection against flex/bend fractures as well as moisture resistance. If I must splice, it is the same process. Never solder except in rare cases. My only potential issue the the all in one thing is a problem I've encountered occasionally with older wire. It just won't tin correctly, probably a thin corrosive film. On solid wires, which I'd never use on a car, that is easy to correct. But on multi-strand it is impossible to clean all of them. I have also seen this a few times on new wire but I don't know why, but it just would not tin and bond correctly. There doesn't seem to be any way to assure that doesn't happen with the all-in-one solution. Might look OK from the outside but not really bonded. Probably never be an issue with all new stuff of good quality though. Lots of airplanes flying without a soldered joint. A few in specific areas maybe, but looking a QEC packages used in engine changes, it's all quick connect plugs with crimped pin connections. Same with aux power and air conditioning packs. That's my rationale for using crimps almost exclusively, that and the fact that I've never had on fail. But, one must buy quality parts and tools, no hardware store, stamped steel crimpers and no insulated terminals. That last part is mostly me hating the look of a smashed piece of plastic on the end of one of my wires.

Head bolt substitute is the shorter ones for Chevy 283-350. IF they are little long a grade 8 washer will space them up. And not a bad idea anyway as it prevents bolt head/head galling if tighened dry

I use Google, advanced search. Much better that most any site's search, Go here: https://www.google.com/advanced_search fill in words or phrase the specify the site you want to search in that parameter.

The price of parts that new will keep me (and probably others ) out of that game. But, lots of the v6 pieces from Mopar are relatively cheap, RWD, still have the electronic complication but worth it.. Plus, they are much more compact than the Jeep inline.

What is preventing the pedal/piston from fully returning? Spring not strong enough or????

caught that too, probably a 331 or 354, depending on year built.

Not normally, but circumstances can cause damage. Damage the low/reverse slider from trying to spin the wheels, actually spinning on slick surfaces then hitting dry spot or 'speed-shifting' where common with all the low powered cars of the 50s. The first was my mistake. And a lot of other teenagers. Not so much the HP but the result of high (for a flathead) RPM and the inertia of that heavy crank/rod/pistons/flywheel when the clutch is engaged too quickly. Mopars weren't as bad as Ford flatheads. Dad made a lot of money supplying rebuilt 3spds to the local teen crowd back in the day.

I've defaulted to specifying USA location only on searches. If I don't find it there and really need one whatever, I'll include other countries. But, I've had pretty good luck with sources in Asia for the most part.

Been working on these cars way before they were 'old' cars. And never had to repair a strut type, except for broken gears, not the fault of the synchronizer, rather the loose nut behind the wheel. Me. No experience with the third option but don't like it's looks.

And the smells are distinct also. Hard to describe but if if coolant(steam) and it has antifreeze, it will smell sweet. Fuel just smells bad, sort of sharp and makes eyes water, oil not so much.

Before I decided to use a 2bbl, my plan was the little Holleys with glass bowls. 'cause the look cool and use readily available Holley jets for the inevitable tuning needs. One can find those in really small sizes from early falcons so even a 3 carb setup wouldn't overpower a 230,

Lead was used in a lot of old paints, including vehicles. As long as you don't ingest it there is no risk in normal working on it. But, be aware that sanding dust in the nose, eyes or mouth is ingesting. Easy solution is wet sand. Or use a good mask and filter system when power sanding. But those precautions should be used no matter the presence of lead. Anything you breathe besides the normal 80/20 N and O mix is not good for you. I use my paint mask but with particle filters instead of organic vapor cartridges when sanding.

Yep, I bought a new unused one off eBay a few years back, 200 bucks delivered, changed my mind and sold it several months later for 250 plus shipping. Should of kept it I guess.

My advice to anyone pulling a head is to use an impact wrench. Set on lower power and forward first, the reverse. The rat-a-tat is much less likely to break a bolt that a straight pull with hand tools. Most, if not all, air impacts have no way to lower reverse power, only forward. The reason the fwd/rev is to assist in breaking the adhesion of threads to block without subjecting the bolt to full power. I have a couple of composite impacts (3/8 & 1/2) that I really like, Ingersoll-Rand. Light weight, both with titanium hammer cases, and LOTS of power.

I was going to mention that earlier and forgot to include it with my post. IF, and a big if, I were blast any white metal it would be with walnut shell and start with lower air pressure, raising a little at a time until it just started to cut the paint. Finer grades of glass or slag can be used, but it will leave a satin or coarser finish, depending on the metal and media.

I use Kirker epoxy, primer, base, clear or single stage paints. Not quite the coverage of the big boys but w a y cheaper. Looks good enough for me. That's current use, but I've done different in the past when we had a local 'wholesale paint' store. Now that they're gone, only the parts houses have paint stuff locally so mine is all purchased online. the only time I really worry about staying with the same brand is base and clear. Otherwise I've seen no issues with changing brands after the primer.

Several on ebay. This one is best price and seller ships internationally.https://www.ebay.com/itm/335179001237?hash=item4e0a39ad95:g:XukAAOSwzihlhzrb&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4MbUv%2FNXMCYV0dtXug07a3e%2FLrB3olSAiB70ps23sEb5DRX8U1sngPIaa0gJ59%2Fl2%2F3AXqwRLaZXcdOwOOKuYjWTrc7AkSFHWn9y9yDhImQFqqdNKNpIgtxCyh59856dMREt9Y7rYDO6ekOfPc0%2FGQzcdMwhHPC8v0OtyR28qmTAzHvdEZEtJvrf6WDJbj2KLETh%2BTYSDXotP4yEL5ZhNYTW%2Bhp4jzZ55tyU1lZgeQoJX3UEJcwDD1UJHkP4BSd9I6rGqWsgdh2E7uRS9f2GUzJC9c5pVG8CWLWhlWV%2FX1Yb|tkp%3ABk9SR-L0zaSfYw

Agree with Los on what it probably was . Fix for either worn arm or cam. But the part is a split bolt normally used for larger gauge wiring splices. The covered with lots for electrical tape.

Personally I would discount the vacuum advance as a source of these symptoms. My reasoning is this: If it is leaking air the idle speed and idle mixture screws could be adjusted to compensate. Once done it's done as it would be a fixed leak, not variable. And that is a tiny orifice and cannot admit much air as the port for it is above the throttle blades. There is no, or very little, vacuum applied to it at idle. But, plugging the port at the carb is a great way to eliminate that as a cause. But the mechanical advance could very well be drifting if badly worn or springs broken. Have you checked the points spring? Loose, broken or misplaced spring there can also cause issues. But putting the timing light on it and watching the flash and pointer movement would be my first move.

I don't think accelerator either. Surging at a constant throttle position with no load sounds like ignition to me. Vacuum advance not likely to be the cause of acceleration lag as it isn't even involved at that point. Did it do this before the new condenser was installed? I doubt every new one until proven good. Loose mechanical advance can cause weird things. How does it look with a timing light on it? actual timing setting is not important, just watch for intermittent flash and/or the mark moving.

Points spring? Condenser? Accelerator pump? First things that come to mind. Since it isn't being driven, maybe sticky valves, especially if it was started with old gas in it.

If you apply enough of the the epoxy primer no further primer will be needed. It will need a long cure time to sand well though. However if you have some places that need smoothing further some 2k urethane is the best available today.

Just to echo the above, the center sections swap for many years better ratios are available. especially true for 54 an up as they were starting to set the cars up for the better roads. Swapping axle gears to match splines is easy to do. And swapping just the center section complete is so much easier/faster than setting up a ring and pinion, at least for me.