kencombs

The unofficial standard for such things is 'as viewed from the operators seat'. Same is true for left/right, starboard etc. Aircraft, boats, heavy equipment, almost everyone uses this. Sitting in the driver's seat, the fan turns counterclockwise, and blows air from the radiator to the engine. Also, with some really rare exceptions,(like boats with dual engines) all car/truck/industrial engines turn this way. In some installations, the engines are reversed, like garden tractors or such and folks think the engine rotates different. Not true, the perspective changed, not the engine.

I also have a 56 pickup. I researched my trans choices a while back and found that Wilcap can make one up for the later trans. My choice was to go with an 833 overdrive 4 speed. Gathering parts, and just about have everything I need. Using a 58-60 bellhousing which has the right size pilot hole but will need material welded on to accept new bolt holes. It is a hydraulic clutch housing and I'm using the matching pedal set from a 60. Still debating the brakes. I think I'm using a GM hydrovac/master cylinder. All this (even the clutch housing!) is usable with my 230 or a 301 poly that I also have. I think the adapter will work with the overdrive versions of the 904 also and if using an auto, that is what my choice would be. On the rear end issue, I wouldn't change it just for studs, I converted mine using some studs from the parts store. Took all of an hour (not counting the time searching for a hub puller). With an overdrive in front of it, the low original gearing is not a problem.

I use the following steps: Shoot epoxy directly on the metal (and filler if I've used any). While withing the epoxy's recoat window (24 hours for the brand I use), recoat with high build primer. The grit used on the metal is not important, the epoxy/high build will fill almost any sanding scratches, that is their role. Any really bad remaining scratches can be touched up with a good glazing putty before the last primer coat before final blocking.

I'll bet Merle is right. A slight bit of rust on a valve stem that is now gone. I would put the head back on with the old gasket just to retest the compression. If it's now OK, then put a new gasket on.

It will be ok. That much fluid will lube it, but not be adequate to apply clutches and bands. DON"T try to move it, as it may partially engage and slip a lot, not good for friction faces.

Chrysler stuff was very popular with cab companies because it is/was tough! Standard used to be, as I was told by a taxi owner/ expect 125,000 on the original, then 100k more on a rebuild. Then junk the worn out hulk. These numbers went to 175/125K on slant sixes.

Leak down test is best, but a quick and easy test is similar. Make/buy an adapter that screws in the spark plug hole and allows you to attach and air hose. With pressure applied, listen at the tailpipe, carb intake and oil filler tube. That should point you in the right direction, exh valve or intake stuck (or a piece of carbon holding it off the seat) or a piston/ring failure.

Marty, on the pinging issue: I'd put my money on timing also. With the vacuum advance connected to the manifold I think this is what's happening from your description: With wide open throttle you have NO advance because of the low vacuum signal. But as you back off the throttle and the vacuum rises the advance comes into play causing the pinging.

I tried to buy that bleeder also and was too late on the trigger as it was already sold. If you still have it and want to resell, please let me know as I really need one. Thanks

I will take a run to my local parts place and order one.

I posted this on the pilot house forum, but am adding it here since cars are more likely to have the starter I need. Not a pilot house era truck, but it is a flat six. 1956. I think it was originally a 12v truck, but the wiring is a mess so I can't be sure. It is 12v now, alternator from an Asian vehicle, 12v battery in original location and it seems to fit OK. Still has the floor starter and I want to go to a key start, not stomp start. My question is: What starters will work in this application? I will be redoing all the wiring anyway so changing the switch and adding the relay, etc is not an issue. I just need to know what starter(s) will fit the engine and flywheel teeth. Also, since I won't have the correct core, parts store rebuilds are out of the question, so does anyone have a good used one for sale? Thanks for the help

Not a pilot house era truck, but it is a flat six. 1956. I think it was originally a 12v truck, but the wiring is a mess so I can't be sure. It is 12v now, alternator from an Asian vehicle, 12v battery in original location and it seems to fit OK. Still has the floor starter and I want to go to a key start, not stomp start. My question is: What starters will work in this application? I will be redoing all the wiring anyway so changing the switch and adding the relay, etc is not an issue. I just need to know what starter(s) will fit the engine and flywheel teeth. Also, since I won't have the correct core, parts store rebuilds are out of the question, so does anyone have a good used one for sale?

I don't see a photo bucket link? But, what you have done is very similar to my needs. I need to extend the upper holes up, rather than sideways.

I am collecting parts to install a poly v8 and 833 O/D into my 56 pickup. I am using a 59-60 P/U clutch housing to get the hydraulic clutch since I wanted swinging pedals. I've got the pedals, linkage, housing, transmission, shifter and yoke. The trans and related stuff came from a 79 van so will have the low first gear. The 833 O/D has the big front bearing retainer and fits the clutch housing perfectly. However, the bolt holes are too high and too low to hit the machined face of the housing. I am thinking of welding bosses onto the housing to mate with the top holes and drilling the housing and drill/tap the trans so that I can attach using bolts from inside the housing into the trans case. If you've ever worked on early chevy stuff, you can visualize this. Anyone ever welded onto the cast housing? How did it work out? What kind of process or rod did you use? I have welded cast using Nickle rod on my stick machine. Works good, but a b***ch to drill or machine. Braze with oxy/gas works good but on a big piece like this, preheat/cool takes forever. Cast rod maybe???

Can you tell us what rotor and caliper are used? I would like to price the stuff that needs to be locally sourced before committing to the kit.

I posted this in the wanted section, but got no replies, and very few views. So, I thought I would try hear. I need a pair of hubs, front and rear from the right side of a 49-60 Dodge 1/2Ton. I just want to get right hand threads all the way around so I can more easily install studs instead of bolts. Let me know what you have. thanks

Mine also changed. Now they count all feedback, including multiples from the same ID. So a customer that has bought 4 items used to only count as 1 feedback. Now he is 4. But, the percentage is now only figured on the last 12 months. I went from 866 to 932 and 100% to 99%, one item I shipped was very heavy, got mishandled and broke a knob. Buyer dinged me for that, but never contacted me directly. I would have replaced the part had he done that. But, not after he left a neutral.

It is going to be difficult to get any new hole properly aligned with the manifold hole. The drill will follow the offcenter pilot hole you already have. I would suggest installing the manifold, then use its' bolt hole as a guide to drill the hole to the next oversize or to the proper size to tap for a helicoil. The helicoil, or some other brand of thread repair insert, is the best solution in my opinion. If the manifold hole winds up oversized a little, it won't be a problem, just use a washer or two under the bolt head.

Is it a continuous miss on one cylinder? an intermittent miss on one? More than one, does it go a way with speed changes? Was it a problem before the new head? Lot's more info needed before we can accurately troubleshoot this.

Bumpers??

Smaller gap, longer dwell time, will increase coil magnetic field saturation. And, will advance timing a bit since the points open and cause the plugs to fire earlier. If the gap is small enough, at some point the spark will not occur, but I don't know just how small that might be. I makes sense that there would be a range just before that where spark may be intermittent and could cause hard starting. The gap/angle have a fixed relationship unless the distributor is worn causing both of vary. Neither effect the spark duration, only the start time. coil magnetic field strength and collapse determine the duration.

Nice mockup. I am thinking along the same lines. But, need to work in a power steering pump for both steering and hydroboost brakes on my '56 pickup. Any ideas? Mitsubishi used an alternator-mounted vacuum pump on Fuso trucks, wonder if one could replace the vacuum pump with a hydraulic pump?

OD is a great addition. And shipping shouldn't be more than $125. I had an A833OD 4 speed shipped from upstate NY to OK at that price. And it is heavier than the older ones. UPS or Fedex either handle up to 150 lbs and a lot cheaper than freight.

If the condition and price is right I would be interested, assuming I can figure out the transportation problem, (MI to OK)

Use your 6 volt if you want. My dad ran a 6v starter for years on his 49 and 54 chevy wreckers. they must have started a million times on 12v with no problems. But, if you want to change, 56 is the first year, and my Hollander shows the v8 and 6 as the same starter.