kencombs

No, I've always removed a plug and used one of the others, not the filter connections.

I've never seen such tool. How is the pump driven with no gear? I use an external pump or pressure tank to prime through one of the ports into the main oil gallery on the drivers side.

IMHO, nothing fed into the carb inlet will do much of anything beyond the exhaust manifold. Water and/or alcohol will clean the combustion chambers well, but the resulting loose carbon will get deposited in the muffler. The exhaust just cools too much beyond the manifold. The 'italian tuneup' is likely the best solution, but wait for nice warm weather and find a location with lots of uphill runs to get as much temp increase as possible for as long as possible. And repeat weekly.

That looks terrible. But, I'd bet it has existed since the block was cast. I'd run it as is and this is why: There is no oil under pressure in that area of the block. There is almost zero load on the tappet bore, just an up/down motion with a minimal side load from the cam contacting the lifter base. As evidence I offer the fact that I've never encountered a worn bore, even in engines with many, many, many accumulated miles. And have never heard of anyone else finding one. Yes I know it is a lot of work to remove and replace the block if it doesn't work out, but I'd gamble on it working fine. After all there is a lot of machine and assembly work done and salvaging that is worth the gamble in my mind.

No real experience with that seal but I'd bet that the presence of the fluid would stop that leak. The ground surfaces will still have minute imperfections that are filled and sealed by the oil itself. Can't guarantee that of course, and it's a long way back in there if I'm wrong. So let's wait for an expert.

grab this kit: https://www.harborfreight.com/universal-paint-system-starter-kit-17-piece-57508.html and the adapter to your gun. Saves lots of cleaning time and solvent and is spill proof. With the adapters available it will fit most guns. No need to strain paint as each liner has one built in. Easy to mix a little bit and save left overs as long as it doesn't have hardener.

Great cars. Dad had a 54 with powerflite that I used as my fancy date car in high school. Same engine, same body with slightly different trim and grill. That little hemi is surprisingly strong. Sure wish I had one for my 56 pickup. But they are getting really hard to find and even more expensive to machine and buy pistons etc.

Or, park with trans in reverse. If it's properly assembled OD is locked out when in reverse.

The only Mopars I have experience with that had trans-mounted park brakes were the later internal-expanding drum and shoe on Powerflite and Torqueflite units. They were excellent! Would lock the rear wheels at 36-40MPH with a strong pull on the handle. The only weakness was the lack of a locking or limited slip differential. One wheel on ice made it totally ineffective.

With the overdrive cable in the OD position, but speed less that the governor setting, the drive shaft will not turn the trans output shaft when coasting. So clutchless shifting is possible.

The bolded word above was an accurate typo. If the sensor lies we need to know.

I've used cans of 'cold galvanizing compound' made by Rustoleum for that. It is just powdered zinc in a fast evaporating binder. I suspect that is what the SEM stuff is too. Anyway it works for me. I have a bunch of it on the shelf bought at a big hardware store auction years ago.

In my experience, If the hand throttle was used at all, it was to control the speed of a transmission-mounted PTO. Usually operating a winch or pump. Used to use our old wrecker that way when rolling up the cable after a pull requiring all of it to be fed out. Set the speed, then go back and hold tension on the cable to make it lay nicely on the drum. Local dairy had a vacuum pump setup on a tank truck. Old engine mounted under the truck, with the PTO shaft driving the crankshaft of the pump/engine. Intake manifold connected to the tank, set the throttle, engage the pto to spin the 'engine'. When the tank had some vacuum developed open the intake valve, connected to a hose immersed in the manure pit from washing out the barn. Sucked it dry. then dump on the pasture. Sod farm had a similar setup to water the sod field. Suck water from the river and dump on the sod using a spray bar on the back of the truck. both used the hand throttle loading and unloading. Lots of uses for the hand throttle that don't readily come to mind!

I saw one of those too, but it seemed to me to be lacking a good heat sink. And, the GM HEI module really needs one.

Here is a good article on the whys and hows. https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=15779

Could be a deal for the right buyer and location. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/486215117472884?rid=10163311097449434&ad_id&rt=1&refID=0&refType=0&referral_code=commerce_attachment Not mine, no interest.

Clean, dry and properly torqued is the recipe for a proper install. We have had several discussions here about the weakness of the design and key failures. In my past experience have seen those keys loosen, even shear. But in every case the shaft had been treated to a coating of oily stuff of some kind. That invites rotation which will damage the key fit. This dates back to the 60s when I was working on these things at least weekly, usually daily. that's my story and I'm sticken to it!

Everyone should read the IRS info on this. Some have interpreted it to mean that you will be required to pay taxes on the 1099K figure, Maybe, maybe not, depending on the NET of the sale. Good reading here https://www.irs.gov/businesses/what-to-do-with-form-1099-k Nothing is really new, sales less cost of sales is taxable.

I've stored a lot of enginss for several months, some for a year or two while working for my Dad. Removed from wrecks, overhauled or rebuilt and stored until sold or installed. Penetrating oils are not my first choice. They are thin and designed to seep, not stick in place. My goto was, and is, a fairly heavy weight engine oil. Back in the day, I'd use STP to make it stickier. pull the plugs put a small amount in each hole. Turn it over by hand and repeat. PUT THE PLUGS BACK IN. Also plug all openings that connect the outside to the inside. Intake, exhaust, oil fill, breather tube etc. You do not want atmospheric moisture to access the inside of the engine. Always worked for me. I have known of guys doing nothing and the engine was fine months later. Others found the rings stuck to the cylinder walls due to a fine film of rust. keep it dry, either wrap well or keep inside under cover.

How much difference in the point gap can you measure? I wouldn't be surprised to find a new one having 'some' variance but a few thousandths won't materially effect the running. For instance, You could set the gap at .018 or .022 and probably never be able to feel the change. So one lobe a thou or 2 low wouldn't hurt much and may have even been that way when new. On the other hand, maybe no one ever used that little lube tube that came with new points back in the day.

I hear you, my computer experience goes back to the early 70s and my iphone is a puzzle sometimes. so much info and options available on such a little screen, buried in several layers/menus and with icons that are not always logical. Kinda like the infotainment center on new cars, is the car with squiggly lines an antilock brake issue, or ice warning, or stability software/hardware failure? Could be either (or none) depending on the vintage and maker of the car.

Sneaky leaks like that are sometimes hard to find. IME, the first place to look, after the obvious wheel cylinders, is the master push rod. Often leaks past the piston go no further than the dust boot. In good shape, that will contain the fluid so it isn't visible without pulling the boot back. Never have seen a master cap leak. And, if it did it should be obvious as the outside of the master would be wet below the cap. Edit to add: one of the good things about later firewall mounted pedals, leaks like that can't be seen, but can be smelled. A little brake fluid inside your car really reeks!

Back when I worked on these things every day I heard the same stories. Every single time it was after a brake job or something else that required removing and replacing the hub/drum. Poor worksmanship on the job caused the future failure. I want to run a 4.11 or so rear end with an A833OD. Once the brake job is done, if it needs one, there are no benefits to swapping, other than the emergency brake and there are other ways to attack that. edit to add: The number one cause of key failures, IME is/was the use of grease on the taper. The key really doesn't do much. The taper, wedged fit, axle to hub is where the torque is contained. Workshop manuals were explicit, those surfaces should be clean, dry and free of burrs. Many 'mechanics' had difficulty removing them, so lubed up the taper to ease the removal 'next time'. It worked, they came off real easy! But next time was an unplanned removal.

I have klugged some stiffening beads with a piece of plywood with a groove in it, some clamps and a air hammer chisel with a tip ground to a blunt/rounded end. Not the prettiest, but stopped the oil canning.

I really need to mention this, don't be afraid of rear end and axle strength unless you're making LOTS of power. That axle key is not a wimpy little woodruff model, it is a full length square cut key. That design was used (with a bigger ring gear) right up to the fire breathing 413 Ramchargers drag car.. I saw lot of them run back in the day, even had one in a 58 Dodge Coronet, replacement for the 326. Never saw one fail. Brakes and/or ujoint issues are real though. Thank goodness, my 56 pickup has 'normal' ujoints. And I have a disk driveline brake that I might install just because I can.