garbagestate 44

Yeah, He sure is.

I don't think you have to removing the steering knuckle. Turn the steering wheel all the way over till the knuckle is out of the way. Can't remember if its all the way right or left but one of them will do it.

I never did one but if I were going to,I'd probably use one of those modern brake light switches that are near the pedal arm. Pushing the pedal closes the contact and brake lights come on. You could probably adapt one of those for your e brake arm and it would be practically invisible. The best part is that they are available at any junkyard.

pressure is pressure whether it's driven by an air pocket or oil.

You might want to poke around a bit to try and figure out why the previous owner changed it in the first place.

If you are using the original transmission, I wouldn't think you would have to do anything since the e brake drum is on the end of the tail shaft.

Airtex is crap. Don't waste your time or money. Rebuild your old AC.Mine was doa right out of the box.Customer support?? You get more feedback from a dead guy.

Here's one on Ebay. It might work depending on whether you have a fluid drive or a dry clutch https://www.ebay.com/itm/1934-1956-Flywheel-Ring-Gear-for-Chrysler-Plymouth-Dodge-Desoto-Flathead-Engines/173226848920?fits=Make%3AChrysler&hash=item28551ff298:g:JPAAAOSwA3dYD70q

I also got an o ring replacemeny from the local hardware store. worked good.

The hard part about that job is the electric controls for the m-6 transmission. It's all 6 volt pos ground.I talked to a guy with a 49 who converted to 12v and he said he had no problems but who knows? If you damage any of those parts,they can be pricey and hard to find.

I usually put on hearing protectors and take a long screwdriver,put the handle end on the shell of the earpiece and the other end where you think the noise is coming from. The protectors help drown out some of the backround noise.

Semi automatic trans relay maybe? If thats what it is, it is normally located on the engine sidewall.What's the fuse rating?

I will eventually be driving the Windsor if I can figure out how to get around the annoying garage requirement for antique car insurance but I don't plan to spend 20k on a garage to house a car thats worth 2500.

With AC sets I think some guys use a filter choke that matches the output tube impedance and some people get big wirewound power resistors but they get hot.I have a Philco 802 and some years ago I needed a replacement speaker. I came across somebody on the internet who knew more about it than me. He said I could just leave the fc leads unattached and it would be good.I stole the permanent magnet speaker out of a junker 1949 Fada 790 (mainly because it fit the dash opening) and it works fine.

Most of those old speakers had 2 coils.The coil (called the voice coil) glued to the cardboard form in the base of the cone is probably between 4 and 8 ohms. Back then,speaker magnets sucked so to get around that, they used electromagnets,often called field coil or electrodynamic speakers.For a car speaker they might range from a couple hundred ohms to a thousand.If you go with a modern speaker,you can pretty much ignore the field coil leads and just connect the voice coil leads. If you tried that on an AC set,the kind found in a home,you would cook something. As is always the case with vintage tube driven electronics be very careful as parts of the circuit can carry pretty respectable voltage. Don't ask me how I know.To figure out what you have,You might try this site, http://www.nostalgiaair.org/. They have thousands of schematics. There are lots of sites out there that you can extract useful info from before you start tinkering including do's and don'ts.Good luck.

Yeah, That's how those small block chevy engines are. I ignored one for about 5 years, dumped gas down the carb and it fired right up.About a gallon of water puked out the tailpipe when it started though.

When I was trying to get my 251 unstuck, I found out later that the stuck pistons were the ones that the penetrating oil wouldn't drain past.If I recall, It was #2 and #6.From the bottom, I used a big crows foot on an extension to beat on the piston from the inside after disconnecting it from the crank. When it finally started moving, I put rubber hose on the rod bolts to prevent them from buggering up the crank when I pounded down from the top with a large wooden drift.

I know they were still in business 3 years ago.I bought a trunk lid. Shipping was reasonable.Overall they were a pleasure to deal with.

A few years back I pulled the pan on my 57 Ford y block with 60k miles on it just to clean the sludge that I knew had to be there.The stuff was almost a half an inch thick and had the feel of plumbers putty. By the time I got it all out I must have upped the pan capacity by close to half a quart.It was almost up to sump height.It was a filthy job but really worth it.

I can't say what a '53 is like but on a '47 I got it out of the way by cranking the steering wheel all the way over to one side.That got the arm enough out of the way to drop the pan.

I guess I did.That picture is a couple of years old. It was a warm day in December so I rushed. I had the head off to address a stuck piston ring that was giving me lousy compression.

I went with sort of a schoolbus yellow. If I had it to do over again it would be a pale green.

When you do free it up, be sure to lift it straight up to clear any valves that happen to be open.

Any halfway decent hardware store will have exactly the size you need.

I have Condon and Skelly for my 57 Ford. It's in a 1 car garage on my property.I can't add the 47 onto the policy because one of the requirements is that the vehicle be in a garage. I tried to get liability through Allstate which insures everything else and they just refered me to an antique carrier.At this point,the only way that I can do it is to either commit fraud and tell Condon and Skelly its in a garage or rent a garage in the neighborhood. At that point, the car becomes like a horse, whether you ride it or not, you still have to fork up to feed it.