garbagestate 44

When that happened to me last December, I put a large socket on the end of the puller and stuck a ball bearing between the hollow in the tip of the spindle and the square hole in the socket. That kept the puller screw perfectly centered on the spindle and it slid right off. It was all very anticlimatic as I was expecting it to shoot off when it came loose but it barely made a peep.

Just a guess but it looks like it fits a 46 thru 48 Chrysler,

Not sure about the application for a p15 but my 47 Chrysler Windsor with a single comfort master heater like the one you have pictured, has the door on the same side as yours and is factory mounted on the passenger side.

Here's an update on the wandering puller. I put an 1 1/4'' socket on the end of the puller screw then put a 5/8'' ball bearing(left over from the seat track job) between the square hole in the socket and the hole in the middle of the spindle.That kept the screw from wandering as I tightened it up. Instead of beating it with a hammer, I put an 18'' pipe wrench on it and eventually a 3' pipe on that, and it popped pretty easily. Hope I don't have to do that again anytime soon. Thanks again for the input.

I picked one up about 4 years ago ( a Fulton ) which was a steal by today's standards. Now, it'll cost you your soul or your first born to get a good one.

Yeah, I guess I could make the center screw pointy. The center of the spindle already has a hole in it's center maybe 3/16" diameter which intersects with the cross hole for the cotter pin. I'll give it a shot and let you know how it works out. Thanks Don

Have any of you guys ever had a problem with a drum puller that won't stay centered as it's being tightened on the spindle? I have a blue point 3 legged puller with a rounded center screw that tends to wander in the direction of the least amount of clamping force. With 3 legs on a 5 point pattern, there's always going to be 2 legs together while 1 leg is on the opposite side.In spite of this, I did the passenger side already but the driver side won't budge. I put a brass cap on the end of the spindle to keep from buggering the threads as it wanders.When I did the other side, I screwed the axle nut on backward to keep from mushrooming the end of the spindle and wound up splitting the nut and lightly damaging the spindle threads but not so much that I trashed it. Any thoughts on the subject would be appreciated.

Maybe if you loosened everything up, the additional slop in the various bracket components will allow you to get bolts through all the holes.

I think what he means is that he wants to continue to feed the shift relays 6 volts while operating the rest of the car on 12 volts. I talked to a guy with a 49 Saratoga who never did anything to the controls after converting to 12v and had no problems but other guys warn that doing that could smoke the controls. Personally,I cheated by keeping everything 6 volts except the starter. That way, the m-5 controls are happy along with everything else that likes 6 volts. Do a Google search on the subject,read about how other people dealt with it and you'll really be confused in the end. I know I was.

I think it's a 1935 Chrysler Airstream.

My 47 Chrysler has them. The driver side is hard to remove as the steering knuckle/pittman arm fits through a cut out in the shield.

Although I haven't seen the beginning of the movie in a while, it looked to me like they used a 48 Chrysler for the outside shot of the car rolling over the embankment and a 49 or 50 Chrysler for the brief interior shot of the dashboard when she goes to start it.

Last winter I pulled the pan on my 57 Ford 292 y-block (probably for the first time since it left the factory, I've owned it since 1976) and had to use a putty knife to get the junk out of the bottom of the pan. It had accumulated to a level even with the sump strainer and had a consistency like modeling clay.

A guy I work with has a 1953 m-37. I've never seen it but I think he has a 230 cid motor with a 24 volt starter and waterproof everything. He says its geared so low that 45 mph is almost redline.

There's one listed on Ebay right now for an opening bid of 25 bucks. Auction #370887411765 Also, Don C. has one on his long block if you do a search of some of his engine pictures.

You should do a search of the forum for that as the topic has been beaten to death many times over. Don't use ordinary atf fluid because as I recall the seals won't like it. I used either iso 32 od aw 32,something like that.(i'd look but the jug is buried in the garage someplace)

Personally, when I checked my fluid drive and found out it was somewhat low on fluid, I just topped it off. The shop manual does have a recommendation for fluid change intervals, every 10,000 miles.

Yeah, You will need that carrier shaft as the replacement mc probably isn't going to come with one.

After installing an aluminum aftermarket radiator with a 7 pound cap, I bypassed the heater core altogether, uncertain as I was about whether the heater core was going to fail under pressure or not. I figure I'll address that problem later since the car is still not roadworthy yet.

I wouldn't be surprised. Asbestos was still regarded as a miracle mineral back then and could be found everywhere.

Years ago when my 251 was stuck I pulled the head and poured the oil in directly. What I found was that the oil leaked out on the pistons which weren't stuck and stayed in the bores on the ones that were. That's not a rule of course, just an observation. I agree with the other members that a bar and socket and a good long soak is worth a try. It's a good cheap start.

Thirty years ago I worked with an old timer who was a mechanic during the 30's and 40's and he said that the cars were built like tanks but occupants didn't do well in accidents.

If you do wind up taking the bendix apart, keep in mind that there are spring loaded guide pins between the gear and the shaft that will take off if you are not ready for it after you remove the retaining ring and slide the gear up the shaft.

look at the fifth post on this thread. a forum member found an assembly error and posted some useful pictures. This new improved site won't let me do a simple url copy and paste so I'll give you the title to search with." Startermotor-flywheel question"

My guess would be a Cadillac or a LaSalle.