garbagestate 44

I'm doing upholstery on my 47 windsor. If you're willing to watch lots of youtube videos and make many mistakes, it is doable, however, I am using wool broadcloth and managed to use a consumer grade Singer sewing machine. If you plan on leather, you might need something more along the lines of commercial grade equipment. Probably not cheap. good luck.

Antique electronic supply in AZ should have the vibrator. That's Where I got mine a number of years ago. It's solid state but does the same thing that the originals did.

Looks nice. In the process of giving everything a good going over, I would get rid of the plastic fuel filter and route the fuel line a little closer to factory original. I went with a glass bowl type but anything is better than plastic.

I could be wrong but I think any ford tractor 6v solenoid will do. They're as common as bird crap on ebay

When I had my original gas tank I lost mine too. I'm pretty sure I made one with a piece of soft copper tubing and a tubing cutter

I got mine from WLS. I was happy with the headliner. Just go slow doing the install and think the whole thing through before you start. I started with the rear, then did the front and the sides last. Try to keep the whole thing centered and as tight as possible during the install. It took me 6-8 hours. Windlace goes in first. good luck

I changed my 47 to a 12v to start but everything else is still 6v positive ground. It required 2 batteries. I had to do it that way because I have a fluid drive coupled to an m5 transmission and I didn't know what 12v would do to those expensive and hard to find solenoids and other stuff. Rube Goldberg would've been proud. I don't know if I'm going to keep it that way but it makes the it easier to start until I can get it on the road and run the motor in a little bit. Also, I used a 56 Dodge starter that is 12v but has a gear that is compatible with the tooth count on the flywheel. (144 teeth or something like that) The next year they upped the tooth count to 177 so a later starter won't work. Some have suggested that although the 6v started works fine on 12v, binding and failure to disengage can happen. Anyway, good luck

It's probably a 265 but I wouldn't swear by it. My ind 32 is a 265. The bore is the same as a 251 so the easiest way to check is to unscrew the access nut over the #6 cylinder and measure the stroke.

I used a steele rubber gasket and used 3M bedding compound for the pinch weld channel and 3M glazing compound for the windshield. It was a number of years ago but that was the stuff that they recommended using. It's the kind of job that you only want to do once so it's cheap insurance against leaks even though the stuff is expensive.

I had to re torque mine 3 times before the numbers stayed put.

I picked up the 265 that's in my car now for about 200 bucks 6 or 7 years ago. It was still in it's wooden crate from the factory. He had a 2nd one that I probably should have bought but they are heavy and space at my house is tight. The guy's place was great. An average house on an acre of land on the edge of an affluent neighborhood in northern New Jersey.{Bergen County} It looked like a military junkyard with sheds filled with stuff.

Any cabs in the picture are probably DeSotos.

Since the bellhousing carries the rear mounts, I guess you would have to block up the rear of the motor to take it out. I don't know if much changed by 53 but I'm sure somebody will correct me if I'm wrong.

I put a chain through head bolts at opposite ends with several flat washers to keep the chain link from putting pressure on the casting when it was time to lift. There may be a better method but this worked for me.

That solenoid shouldn't be too hard to replace. Lots of similar solenoids on ebay. It's the Autolite solenoids for 46-48 Chryslers that cost you your firstborn or your soul when ypu can find them.

Just to muddy up the waters even more, If you find a 49 solenoid, don't buy it. It looks identical to the 46-48 but the bellhousing offset is different. The bracket orientation is an easy to miss detail.

Here's a crappy shot of my ind32's data plate and another shot of its pristine color coded intake and exhaust valve springs.

You could be pulling in air through the throttle plate shaft hole. They do wear out. Last time I rebuilt one I had to pick through several junkers before I found one that didn't leak.

If the numbers go up it may be the rings. Last time I did a wet test I got one of those baby medicine syringes to put the oil in with since the valve train is over the plug holes. Shove a piece of plastic tubing onto the end of it and feed it in so that all the oil makes it into the bore where you want it.

I have to say that that looks damn good. Did you have to sand most of it by hand? I know that I'd be the hit of my neighborhood if I were to try traditional chrome plating here in Northern New Jersey where most people don't even know how to change a tire and everybody is packed in like sardines.

If it were me, I'd be more inclined to rebuild it or have someone else rebuild it if your not comfortable doing it yourself. A lot of the new replacements available out there are not great quality wise. Also, make sure the problem isn't the flexable line running from the frame to the pump itself. If it's as old as the car,it could easily be leaking and making it look like the pump is the source of the leak.

You can try the damper doctor. I don't know how good they are but they have been around for years.https://www.damperdoctor.com/

If it's a 49 with the original trans, It's probably an m-6,

Yeah, I realized that after I made the post.

A lawyer. For somebody who supposedly passed the bar, he couldn't spell worth a tinkers damn.