garbagestate 44

That car doesnt look any worse than mine did when I got it.As long as the frame isn't rotted out,somebody should be able to do something with it.

If you don't already know, the spark plug holes are located over the valve train. When I wanted to do the same thing,I used one of those baby formula things that look like a miniature turkey baster with a plastic hose on the end to direct the oil directly into the cylinders. Either way the oil gets in I guess but that way you know it all makes it instead of down through an open valve.

I did the same thing,Nothing like a well stocked hardware store. Fits like a glove.

When buying the head gasket,you need to determine if you have an internal or external bypass. The internal has a bulge in the front of the head that bypasses the thermostat.Either one is available, you just have to figure out which one you need.

You might try removing the sender and put an ohmeter across the 2 contacts,swing the float arm and see if you get a resistance reading. Offhand I can't remember what it's supposed to be but you can probably do a search to get a better idea. If it tests good you get to rule that out as the weak link. As for the other issues, I'm sure somebody will chime in with some useful stuff. Good luck

I think the bolt pattern is the same on the front but I had to swap out the actual mount with the passenger car bracket. The one that came with the ind 32 had an application for a snow cat.(some kind of tracked vehicle seen at ski resorts and such). At the other end I had no problems mating the crank flange to the 1947 fluid coupling. It was pretty much plug and chug.

Hi, The industrial 265 is sometimes refered to as an IND 32. Most of the stuff is the same except that some have hollow exhaust valves filled with powdered sodium that goes liquid when hot to promote better valve cooling in stationary applications. Mine has pistons with three rings instead of four and the rings are a different thickness than the non industrial version but you won't know for sure until you take it apart. None of this is cut in stone.

When you get to the point when you get the spring compressed, be careful that the split keepers don't fall out and enter the oil pan through one of the drain holes.

On mine, that would be for the passenger side courtesy light.

Yeah, I did it. It was clogged beyond hope. A couple of years later I junked the tank anyway since it had lots of pinholes. I'd fix one and two more would pop up like mushrooms after a thunderstorm.

If you could mock the stuff up in wood, You could probably get some casting resin and do some mold making. I was doing a restore on a late 1930's Zenith radio that was missing part of the wrap around speaker grill and created a mold out of silicone. I then filled it with epoxy casting resin,let it sit for a couple days, popped it out of the mold and it was a nice sandable piece. Type in moldmaking on youtube and you'll get tons of results.

This is just a shot in the dark but you might want to check your float height. I found this carter bulletin with a quick google search.Hope this helps. http://www.carbkitsource.com/carbs/tech/Carter/CarterBBS1956.pdf

Nice car. I went the other route. I paid 500 bucks for mine and have been pumping money into it ever since. I have a few new scars to show for it and it keeps me out of trouble. No regrets.

When re installing the ring, don't over tighten the 3 screws that hold the ring on. It looks a lot like my 47 Windsor underneath and by turning the screws, you visually adjust the ring so that the 3 spokes sit evenly in their channels. Good luck

Here's my partially repainted,school bus yellow 265 awaiting completion later in the week.

Pretty cars but the eight cylinder is harder to get parts for and more expensive when you do find what you need.

I didn't know that Chrysler made all these ring thicknesses for different industrial applications or what kind of searches I was going to have to do to come up with a ring that would fit. Turns out that there were several on ebay that would work so I pulled the trigger on one of them. Before that I was thinking that if I had to I would just stick a 4 groove piston in that end spot. It probably would have weighed differently but this motor isn't in a Lamborghini.

Yeah, Thanks a bunch for steering me in his direction.I talked to him today and he's a nice guy and extremely knowledgeable on the L 6 in all it's variety's. I never would have figured it out by myself. From his description it sounds like he lives in God's country unlike myself where we are all packed in like sardines. Thanks again.

Thanks for the suggestion, I sent him a pm.

No, Oddly enough,the only markings are what look like little star of david six point stars located in the 4 recessed areas around the wrist pin hole.

Hi All, I have an ind 32 (265) engine which had lousy compression in the rear cylinder. I took it apart to find out why and it turned out to be 2 stuck compression rings. The upper ring broke when I tried to free it up and standard rings for a 250.6-265 are thicker and won't fit in the grooves. To make it even more interesting,these pistons have 2 compression rings and 1 oil ring unlike a run of the mill 251 which has 2 compression and 2 oil. This engine only has maybe 2 hours of run time on it and it was still in the crate when I got it several years ago.Do you think I could substitute a standard 4 groove piston in that rear spot with out any trouble? Otherwise I have a feeling this is going to turn into an Easter egg hunt trying to find the slimmer rings.It was manufactured toward the end of the run about 1970. Thanks

Thanks for the input,I do notice that it can be hard starting sometimes.I'm going to open the motor up tomorrow to address a poor compression problem that I have in the # 6 cylinder.A dry/wet compression test that I did the other day makes me think I have a stuck or broken ring.Might as well take advantage of the unusually warm weather we're having here in the northeast. Upper 50's is about as good as it gets for December.

Hi all, Later this week I have to do some internal work on my 265. A number of years ago when parts were still cheap on Ebay I bought a spare dizzy just to have on hand. I have noticed that the one in the car now has pretty significant rounding on the peaks of the lobes.While I'm in there I figure I'll swap it out with the new one which looks near new. Does anyone know what performance changes I can expect from changing it out and reducing the slop in the system? Thanks

It's probably an id mark from what ever foundry cast the crank.

I just used adhesive backed velcro that I cut into strips on mine. My car is never going to be a trophy winner so I didn't worry about it.Good luck.