garbagestate 44

The whole 12 volt conversion question as it pertains to the m5/m6 transmission has been discussed at length on several sites and everybody has a different opinion. I met a guy from the Midwest who did the conversion on a 49 Saratoga with an m6 and it was no problem. He said the duty cycle time for the kick down switch is short enough that it can tolerate the higher voltage. Some people say that parts of it are polarity sensitive and won't work correctly if the system is changed to negative ground. I have a 48 Windsor with an m5. I plan to use a 56 dodge starter (bendix type) with a ford type solenoid switch connected to a 12 volt battery hidden in the trunk. That's going to turn the starter only and won't be connected up to any kind of charging circuit. Everything else will run off 6 volts which should keep the transmission happy. I'll put a voltage reduced on the sisson choke as it will be the only other thing working off the 12 volt battery. I'll just recharge the 12 volt once in a while. I'll post later whether this scheme actually works when I do it later this summer.

The whole 12 volt conversion question as it pertains to the m5/m6 transmission has been discussed at length on several sites and everybody has a different opinion. I met a guy from the Midwest who did the conversion on a 49 Saratoga with an m6 and it was no problem. He said the duty cycle time for the kick down switch is short enough that it can tolerate the higher voltage. Some people say that parts of it are polarity sensitive and won't work correctly if the system is changed to negative ground. I have a 48 Windsor with an m5. I plan to use a 56 dodge starter (bendix type) with a ford type solenoid switch connected to a 12 volt battery hidden in the trunk. That's going to turn the starter only and won't be connected up to any kind of charging circuit. Everything else will run off 6 volts which should keep the transmission happy. I'll put a voltage reduced on the sisson choke as it will be the only other thing working off the 12 volt battery. I'll just recharge the 12 volt once in a while. I'll post later whether this scheme actually works when I do it later this summer.

Thats very true, when I go to my local napa dealer, I like to have a part number in my hot little hand so they don't have to look it up.

I think the 1949 model year underwent major design changes that would make the replacement pan hard if not impossible to shoehorn in. I have a 47 Chrysler Windsor with a rotten trunk and thought about the same thing but decided against it because it looked too different.Good luck

I did a quick google search and it looks like it should have one.I found a picture of a convertable which is probably the same.

They don't look factory to me. Sombody drilled holes and added them later most likely.Maybe the running boards were loose.

I had a similar problem a while back and what I came up with was an ohmeter test. You touch the test probes to the primary winding which are the + and – taps on either side of the coil. On a healthy unit you should get a reading of around 1.2 ohms. To test the secondary winding you attach the probe to the – side of the primary and the center tap where the high tension wire goes and it should read between 8000 and 11000 ohms. If either of these readings display “OL” then the coil probably has an open winding and is shot. I can't find the post but I think Don Coatney devised a bench test that involved spinning the coil/ distributor combo up with a power drill to make it spark.Hope this helps

You could buy it,sell the visor on Ebay and probably make back half the purchase price.

That's probably one of the holes that can be used for the oil pressure gauge.

Here's some pictures of my street last October 29th. This 100 year old tree put my next door neighbor out of his house for 6 months. I was standing in the driveway talking to him through an open window when it went and had to run like hell.

Yeah, I'll get hammered here in northern N.J. Halloween was an orgy of destruction last year with the snowstorm. This is getting to be a yearly tradition.

If you opt for a new mc you might want to find somebody with a press to remove and re-install that carrier pin.

That's true enough but I doubt that most people on this forum fix there cars with the expectation that they will one day sell them and move to the Palm Springs.

If the 49 is a Windsor then it's probably a 6 cyl. As such, parts are easier to come by and cheaper than the 8 cyl. version.(New Yorker chassis)

Try starting it up at night to see if you have any high voltage leaks from your plug wires.

Check your timing, maybe check the adjusting screw on the carb and the gas pedal linkage in general. That was my problem last month.

When I did the motor swap on my 47, I removed the radiator and grill since I had to do the job unassisted. The reason being that with all that stuff out of the way, I didn't have to lift the motor nearly as high as I would have otherwise. Had I gone over the grill, I never would have been able to do it myself.

They're lucky the whole mess didn't catch fire after that.

here's an "interpret your vacuum gauge " link. http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm

The nut that loosens up the arm on the Sisson's choke shaft is 5/16".

Probably any welding supply house will have cable in any thickness you want to go with.

I guess that would work as long as you always remember to close it once the engine warmed up.

Here's one on ebay. I think the main difference between years on these solenoids is the offset of the mounting bracket thats welded to the case. Thats why a solenoid off a 48 or first series 49 won't fit a regular production 49 or 50. The only good thing is that you can tell by looking at the picture. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1942-1946-1947-Chrysler-DeSoto-Auto-Lite-Starter-Starting-Motor-Switch-Mopar-/230754023664?hash=item35ba02f8f0&item=230754023664&pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr

You don't have to buy that many, This guy on Ebay has small quantities cheap. http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-Premium-5-8-Chrome-Steel-Balls-Bearing-Loose-G25-/180815866142?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a1977291e

You could tap in a second gauge someplace to make sure both are agreeing with each other.