TodFitch

I think they forgot about you. The observation period is supposed to be 15 minutes if you don’t have a history of allergic reactions to vaccines and 30 minutes if you do. For what it is worth, my wife and I pulled rank by being volunteer first responders and completed our Moderna vaccination a while back. Word of caution for those getting the Moderna vaccine: The second shot put us both back a bit: Me more than my wife. The next day we both felt slightly under the weather, good thing we are retired as going into work would not have been possible for me. I don’t know if the second shot on the Pfizer vaccine is better or worse. My wife says the one lasting side effect that she has noticed is a revival of the desire to travel. We just got back from our first trip since the beginning of the pandemic. Here is what we were doing.

Where the heck are you getting an accurate forecast for a date more than a month in the future? Heck, the LA/Ventura office of the National Weather Service has been noting that their models have been in disagreement about the weather 5 days off so their confidence is very low about what is going to happen next week. And I don’t recall them every hazarding a guess about things further out than two weeks even with the various forecasting models are all in agreement.

It is my impression that the steel used in the original rivets was relatively soft. Otherwise how could it have yielded properly when formed into a rivet? I agree that the shoulder of the bolt needs to be a snug fit in the hole to work properly in this application but am not so sure that a grade 5 or 8 is needed. If you have access to a torch to heat the rivet and a way to get behind for holding a set, then riveting is not much more difficult than some other restoration procedures. At least consider it when putting the spring shackle back on. Way back when a spring repair shop used a cutting torch to remove one of the rear spring shackles on my car. When I had everything apart I filled in the damaged holes in the frame, re-drilled them, and finally riveted the shackle back in place (Bolted in for alignment, then replace bolts one at a time with rivets). That is the only time I ever attempted this type of task and while it took some effort and work it was not impossible for a newbie to pull off.

The “Silent U” spring shackles are threaded their whole length and if they are worn enough to allow the distance to the frame to change then they are worn well past the point where they should be replaced. To adjust, you will have to unscrew the bushing, re-align things properly, then screw in the bushing. How hard this is depends on how frozen the bushing is in either the spring eye or the holder on the frame.

I agree with @plymouthcranbrook I haven’t heard about tasting an automotive fluid (brake, coolant, gear lubricant, motor oil, etc.). Smelling and feeling yes. Tasting no.

I assume you are being humorous about the effects if/when the polarity of the magnetic field changes. If not, then you are seriously misinformed about the observed behavior in the geological record for when this has happened in the past.

Depth media vs surface media. A paper filter (surface media) works like a window screen: It has small holes that allow oil to go through but blocks dirt larger than the hole/grid size. There will be a micron rating for the filter. Depth media is not used for full flow filtration so you are not used to seeing them on modern cars. The filter material is thicker and designed so that the flow of oil through it will cause any dirt to come in contact with a strand of fiber that it will stick too. The flow rates are much lower (so can’t be used for full flow filtering) but can get out much smaller particles of dirt. Often the depth media fibers are something that can also absorb water, in which case it can capture the water (combustion byproducts) from a cold start then release it when it gets hot enough to turn to steam when it can be removed from the crankcase by the ventilation system. You have seen depth media in other applications: The wire mesh screen on your old car’s oil filler cap and the wire mesh above the oil reservoir in your old car’s oil bath air filter work on the depth principle (the wire mesh is not a uniform grid so it sets up lots of turbulence in the air moving through it which causes the dirt to be thrown against the wire material where a thin coating of oil causes the dirt to stick allowing only clean air through. From what I have read, those old style filters do as good a job as the modern paper surface media filters but have the down side of being messier. Another down side from the manufacturer’s point of view is they can’t sell you new air filter inserts at every service interval (not much profit in rinsing the filter in a solvent then re-oiling it). You have also seen or used a filter that uses the depth principle if you’ve worn an N95 mask: There is no way you could breath through a mask with small enough pores to block the aerosols carrying a virus. But by using a non-woven material there is enough turbulence to cause the aerosols come in contact with the fibers where they then stick keeping 95% of them from getting through. The reason a woven cloth mask is not as effective is that the regular pattern of threads doesn’t set up the same turbulence so fewer aerosols make contact with the material and more get through.

I think the Chrysler number for that “sock type” heavy duty oil filter element was 676575. I believe the WIX number for the cartridge is WIX 51011 and the NAPA number is FIL 1011 though I have a note that the NAPA FIL 1002 might fit better. If that housing is designed for the sock type filter, then it is unlikely to seal around the paper element filter elements properly. And the sock type filter was the one designated for heavy duty use so I think it should work better with the proper element anyway.

I got a shingles vaccination years ago but recently found out that the earlier shot I had was only about 60% effective at the time and that by now it is probably only 20% or 30% effective. My younger sister had the same older vaccination and still got shingles. From her description is it something you really want to avoid. So I am now scheduled for the first shot to the new shingles vaccine in a few weeks. Couldn’t do it right away as they want you to wait a couple of weeks after any other vaccination you have gotten and I just got my second COVID-19 shot a few days ago. I understand this newer shingles vaccination is very effective.

In that era a lot of what looks like mechanical type was actually hand drawn lettering. There is a good chance that the only way to exactly duplicate that is either the original way with ink and paper or using a vector drawing program to draw the letters.

I am reading your question as asking what the out of pocket running expenses are for fully paid for vehicles. The answer is it varies. . . First, a number of EV companies throw in a few years free high speed charging with your new EV purchase (Tesla for Tesla, Electrify America for some other brands). I will ignore that and assume that your EV will be charged at home most of the time. Second, it still varies. A lot. Looking at my case with a plug-in hybrid (PHEV), I get about 3.5 miles/kWh in EV mode and about 60 miles/gal in gas/hybrid mode. My EV mode economy is pretty typical of a full EV while my gas mode is far better than the typical car. Again, your numbers will vary. Anyway, “super off peak” charging with my plan with my utility is $0.09/kWh. Local gas is about $3.50/gal. So my EV miles cost me about $0.026/mi while my internal combustion engine (ICE) miles cost about $0.058/mi. So it costs about half for “fuel” to drive EV. (This leads me to have “range annoyance” when the trip is out of EV range because I know it is costing me more. Which leads me to observer that a PHEV is kind of like a “gateway drug” to suck people into wanting a full battery EV.) The numbers depend on what vehicles you compare, your local electrical rates, and your local gasoline prices so they will vary. But in general, it is cheaper per mile for your out of pocket energy costs. The second item is parts and maintenance. Generally things that move wear and need maintenance. And an EV has almost no moving parts compared to an ICE so the maintenance comes down to mostly tires. Brakes on hybrids and EVs have much less wear per mile than for a conventional ICE as they all use regenerative braking to some extent. (My 2004 Prius went 201K miles on the original brakes and still had them when it was totaled.) I don’t have any numbers, but the conventional wisdom is that EVs need lots less service than ICE vehicles. And that is also why conventional wisdom is that legacy auto manufacturers have a problem: They sell through dealers and dealers make most of their money in the service department. So dealers are not keen on selling EVs. I don't know how insurance or registration differs between ICE and EV but do know that some states are starting to put an extra fee on EVs to compensate for the lack of gasoline road tax. And a couple of states are setting the EV fees to be punitively high to discourage EV sales. So, again, your costs will vary.

There, I fixed it for you.

Some of the issues you mention are already fixed. For example, the load from everyone coming home on a hot August and plugging in and turning on the A/C. All the current EVs that I am aware of have the ability to schedule when they start charging. And, at least where I am, the utilities have "Time of use" (TOU) billing which provides a strong incentive to charge your car when your utility want you to. In my case, if I charge my plug-in hybrid between 4 PM and 9 PM in the summer it will cost me $0.56/kWh. If I tell the car to start charging during the "super off peak" time starting at midnight it will cost me $0.09/kWh. Better believe that everyone with an EV in my area is telling their car to charge after midnight. Sure, you plug it in when you get home. But it doesn’t actually start charging until the time you tell it to. Basically, if your state regulators allow and the utilities have smart meters deployed, it is pretty easy for the utility to set pricing to move EV charging to when the grid is less used and can best deal with it. Next thing is how much energy do you actually need to put into your car each day? The more efficient EVs are running about 4 mi/kWh. The less efficient EVs are around to 3 mi/kWh. Per the Bureau of Transportation Statistics the average driver goes 29 miles per day. Assuming a 3 mi/kWh vehicle, that means you need to put about 9.7 kWh into the car each day. At 120v and 12 amps (1.44 kW) you need to be plugged in for a bit under 7 hours. So even with just plugging a “Level 1” charger cable into a standard old 120 outlet in your garage you can have your car charged enough for your commute by the time you leave for work in the morning. Granted, a 240v “Level 2” charger hard wired into a 40 or 50 amp circuit can do the job much faster and give you a lot more options. But many people won’t need to go for that expense immediately. So for a typical home owner charging is a non-issue. The only time a "DC Fast Charger" (DCFC) would be used would be on a road trip. I can seen restaurants and especially hotels adding chargers to drive traffic to their business. Stop for lunch and your car is charged when you are done eating. For Tesla owners, that is the setup at Harris Ranch about 1/2 between LA and SF: By the time you finish your meal (slow service but good steaks) your car is charged. Stop for the night at a hotel and your car is fully charged in the morning when you are ready to leave. For restaurants DCFCs would be needed as you would want quick (less than half hour) charging. But for hotels 240v Level 2 chargers would likely be enough. Apartment dwellers do have a problem, though I’ve seen some hints that forward looking property owners are starting to consider having some sort of electrical outlet per car in the parking area. It need not be a full on EV charging station, just enough that an EV owner can plug in the Level 1 cable that came with the car. Or maybe a 240v outlet that they could plug in a readily available portable Level 2 charger. Apparently a few property managers are thinking that this could be a marketing advantage. But yes, it will likely take years for renters to get good options for charging an EV. I guess for them, DCFC every few days or once a week would be required. About the same as what people do now for their gas powered cars.

One human factors issue that has bothered me on this forum software for a while: If you are on a mobile device (or other small window as you can demonstrate this on my laptop by reducing the window size) is that if you want to mark everything as read the button on the pull down from the “hamburger menu” is adjacent to the sign out button. It is too easy to hit the sign out when you wanted to hit the mark all as read. And this is compounded by the fact that sign out is immediate with no confirmation. If/when you get a chance to suggest improvements to the vendor, it would be nice if a change was made. At the least put a confirmation dialog box on signing out. Or just move the two buttons away from one another.

Way too clean and neat looking.

Reviving a thread from over three years ago? You did get me to check if Napa Online had a cross from the original Chrysler number for the cylinder block water distribution tube. They don’t.

I am looking to upgrade a solar system on a remote cabin and have noticed that Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFeP04) 12v (12.8v actually) with built in "battery management system" (BMS) are looking pretty nice for replacing the old lead-acid golf cart batteries. About three times the energy density. And a lot less fussy about charge and discharge rates too. Won’t up your max speed or power but might give you quite a bit longer range than it originally had.

That only scratches the surface. You have to do a lot more to actually stop Google, Facebook and others from tracking you around the web. Even right here you are being monitored by Google (this site uses google analytics) so Google knows which threads in which forums interest you. Funny thing, at least to me, is that if any level of government tried to track you half as much as these companies do we'd be up in arms. But since unregulated companies are doing it for profit we mostly just shrug our collective shoulders.

Ditto. Except I wasn’t as scientific, I just got some rubber like material from my local hardware store and cut a gasket from it. I figured it would either work or not. If it worked I was done. If it degraded due to chemical incompatibilities, then I could order some appropriate material online and was only going to be out a dollar or two for the stuff from the hardware store. Turns out it has held up fine for over five years now.

I am going to assume the original post meant “Looking for a vendor for . . .” Requests to purchase parts from other members must be made in the classified ad area. If someone has a part the OP might want, do not reply in this thread but rather use the private message facility to communicate with them. Thanks to @Merle Coggins and @Sniper for appropriately responding with suggested vendors and sources of information.

At least on my '33, you can remove and re-install the oil pan with the engine in the car. It is a lot easier with a lift (did it that way once) but you can do it laying on your garage floor (done it that way more than once). Front end suspension and frame cross member are different on your '34 but I suspect you will still have enough clearance. However, I would not be surprised if your leaks are as likely to be things like the front and rear seals. I am not aware of a way to do the front crank seal without pulling the engine (timing chain cover is pretty much hidden behind the A frame piece that holds the front engine mount). You might be able to get to it by removing all the front sheet metal and radiator. But, at least on my '33, the center of the crank is lined up with a hole in the frame for the hand crank and you'd have to jack the front of the engine up some to get that vibration damper/pulley off, etc. You can replace the rear main seal with the engine in the car but it isn’t easy at least if you do it without out a lift (pull transmission, remove clutch & flywheel, etc.). Even with the flywheel off, getting the upper seal properly installed is problematic if you are going with the original style rope seal. The manual says you are supposed to put the seal assembly in place and roll the rope stuff down, hard to do that with the crank in place. I think Olson Gaskets or some other supplier makes a rubber seal that can replace the original rope seal. Might have better luck with that. I have found that a large drip pan with some saw dust or cat litter in it under the engine along with checking the oil level fairly often is easier than getting all the leaks fixed.

+1 Not sure if yours is an Elliot or a Reverse Elliot (bushings on spindle or on axle). For my 1933 the bushings are in the spindle which means I could take it to my bench vise which I used as a press and, like @kencombs I used a couple of old sockets as the press tooling.

Showing my age, but it was simply a "column shift" or "column mounted shifter" where and when I was raised. Only vehicles around with a floor mounted shift lever at that time were trucks and really old (1930s and earlier) cars. Only started being called "three on the tree", in a tongue in cheek manner, when sportier cars in the 1960s started getting "four on the floor" shifters.

We are moving into political discussion on this thread so I am locking it.