Tom Skinner

Big John, Steele Rubber Products are the best and they are proud of their products rightfully so (pricewise). So here is the best - and when the best is around they call these guys - better. When better is around they call these guys - mo better. www.steelerubber.com 800 544-8665 Steele Rubber Products 6180 E. NC 150 Hwy Denver NC 28037

Have you got a manual? Somewhere in it should be an exploded view of your Carburetor showing all the parts. I think there are 2 places that it could have come from besides the accelerator pump/shaft. For instance at the Dash Pot area, under the Spring (If equiped with a Dash Pot) or in the Fuel Bowl Area near the bottom at the Pump Check Plug. It seems like a real pain but if you go on line looking for Carter Ball and Ball Carburetors there are some exploded views to look at as well. In addition to that a rebuild kit should contain the same "exploded view" picture. Good Luck and let us know what you found out. Tom Huntersville NC.

Note ho wthe Tail Pipe was being sprayed with 90 wt for a short time until I made this repair. By the way I think the Yolk is 1-7/8" diameter. The Sleeve ends up being Slightly smaller and once the Yolk is Frozen it Bumps right on. It was fun. They are however a little bit proud of Speedy Sleeves $35-$40. Tom

Aftera Pinion Seal was installed it still leaked. I was able to sneak the Yolk off and Speedy Sleeve it withought messing with the Seal again. Tom

I put a Speedy Sleeve on my Pinion Yoke and it stopped Leaking. Neat little Trick. Just Freeze the Yolk then use a block of wood or the Sleeve tool to bump it on place with some sealer and Presto no more Pinion Seal Leak. Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC I tried this thread as a test to attach apicture so if I messed up please allow me some grace. I might have a picture too large.

Congradulations! That was a lot of work! Tom

I'm with Don, that stuff is expensive and just hides what needs to be fixed properly. I would weld in new and paint it. There is a couple of old guys in Booton NJ, they are the Kanter Brothers, they have a saying it goes like this "Do it once and do it right". POR - to me - will just will hide stuff/rust. That causes more work later on down the road. Just MHO. Everyone has got one. This is not to offend people whom have used this product and like it. Even the Kanters sell POR. I just avoid it as a personal note. Tom Huntersville, NC

Hey You'all Them Thar Tires are good up to them make May Pop status. When you are runnin 4 May Pops, then is a good time to consider purchasin some new used tires. New Tires are for city folks. Tom Huntersville, NC

Todd, Tighten the Bolts to about 25 ft lbs for the Pump to Block (2) Bolts. Wipe all clean and observe after a ride. If the Pump Bolts don't have Lock Washers on them they work themselves loose after time. I tighten mine from time to time, or maybe the oils coming down off of the Valve Cover gaskets? Snug the wing nuts on them - but not too tight. Observe again after a test drive. Its probably just a little slow leak. Nothing to get excited about. You can make a Gasket for either very easily. Tom

Rodney, Those Breaker plates are on ebay regularly for about $30-$40 S&H included. I bought one and put it in my Distributor and everything runs Great now Tom

Group Hug?

I will indeed!

Richard. There is a Gasket between the backing Plate and Pump that needs gasket sealant also - do both sides - then bolt it to the pump. Then butter up the gasket between the Pump and Block and then bolt to the Block. That Backing Plate needs Gasket Sealer on the Gasket between it and the Pump. I first put a Water Pump on a Flat Head back in the mid 70's and didn't seal that "inbetween" Gasket and then learned it must be done also. Good Luck! You can make your own gaskets from a roll of Water Pump Gasket Material with Sicsors and a Hole Punch real easy. Tom

Crazietj, You have come to the right place. We are the largest Mad House Forum out there - loaded with all kinds of crazies. We are cut from the same cloth. This Plymouth you have bought is nice and complete. Anything or way you want to go with it is fine with us - its your car. But just as a side note, that car could come full circle as is, its pretty damned intact. So here is wishing you all the patience, luck, and energy you need to accomplish your goals. Tom Huntersville, NC

Great Tool! You are a lucky man! I test mine with a 9v battery and some wire alligator clips if they snap shut with that they work. Just take a small 9v Battery and clip one end to the body of the Sisson Choke and the other lead to the Brass Screw where the wire hooks to atop the Choke. It should snap Shut - then you know they work. I know this is just an ignorant man's way of testing them but it works. Then follow the instructions in your manual on proper Choke adjustment and you should achieve sucess. I recently bought 2 sissons for $12 on ebay and they both work. I cleaned them up with a wire wheel. On ebay now some one is trying to sell one for $189 - way too much in MHO. Tom

Mr. Bob, Ouch! you mean you took apart all your brakes? I thought one should do one side at a time and if - if - having forgoten how to re-assemble, one could then go around the car and examine one that was still together as an example to jog ones memory to continue installing brake parts in the wheel they are working on. I have always found the best learned lessons in life are the hardest learned. I'm sorry for your dilema and hope you have a service manual. Good luck with your repair. Tom

I buy ZDDP 4oz. Bottles (Zinc) additive and add to my Oil Changes. It only adds about $9 to an Oil Change and gives me peace of mind. As Don C. has pointed out in the past though its all a matter of personal prefference - a snake oil remedy some say. Marvel Mystery Oil was my old favorite until recently. ZDDP can be purchased on ebay. Some do, some don't, some will, some won't. Oil is in fact better today than in 1948. Das ist mir egal - (Its all the same to me) Tom Huntersville, NC

I always thought Cast Iron Heads got Torqued Hot and Aluminum Cold? Oh well, I think there is probably just a little break in Lub dust etc floating around in there. Good luck and I hope everything works out for you now that the oil is changed. Tom

I shot a 90 once. That was on the front nine holes:D

Donald, Have you checked if its Polarized correctly? Polarize the Generator with Jumper Wires at the Regulator? cut a wire (Short Scrap Jumper Wire)and jump between the Bat and Arm Contacts. Firmly hold end of jumper wires to strike a flash between these terminals on your Voltage Regulator. This will Polarize your Generator to recognize a charge at the Ammeter - if this helps. You may have inadvertantly un-polarized it, jumping or disconnecting stuff. A Cheap Checks to save money. One more thing are the brushes in the Generator still good? Do they have any meat left to them or are they worn to a nub? Good Luck with your repair! Tom

Powerhouse, I know any advice now might serve to rile you, however, If the Generator is the problem, perhaps removing it and having it bench tested would help. Just a thought, I am not an Electrical wiz Kid. Good Luck. Try Static Timing her, maybe she's to advanced?? Tom

Dear NosDan85, If after checking those things you may want to static time it. That will tell if your getting juice to the plugs at the specified/required time. A good book for Trouble Shooting is: Automotive Trouble Shooting for WW2 Wheeled Vehicles by Robert V Notman. Contact him for a copy at: notman7@comcast.net. Its worth the $30 or so to have around and wil leave no stone unturned. Trouble shoots Electrical - Fuel - All things - Checking Coils, Condensers, Timing - Static and Dynamic etc. etc. Spiral Bound w S&H @ $35. Saves alot of time going straight to a problem. It was designed to Field Repair WW2 Vehicles in emergency Situations and is Re-Edited by him with Modern Caveats and Tips - A MUST READ for most of us. I have started everything from old mopars (1940's) to old Ford Jeeps (1940's) with this book. Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

Dan, If you have a Service Manual, you can refer to it for the adjustment, or repair. By researching your steps to this would give you confidence to try the repair. They are fairly simple and you would probably fix it. Tom Huntersville, NC

By Gently Vacuuming the Head Liner with a soft Brush Attachment most "Dark" Brown Spots will vanish - Not Stains but Cloudy Spots. These are where Rust Dust has settled into the Headliner after Decades of raining down into the Fabric. Re-Vacuum. Now try a Gentle Cleaning Solution for Stains. You will be amazed at the results. Tom

Don, Congradulations! Nice Cadillac! Enjoy your retirement! You earned it! Tom