Alshere59

You forgot the rest of the car..

Well the mail man brought me a clock for my car today. It was pretty cheap so I thought why not look at it, at most I would end up mounting a different movement. So after a few searches on google and here, I took it apart to see if it would work or at least get an idea what would fit. After seeing a few discussions but none with pictures I thought why not post what I found. So for the new members like me, here is what little I know. The first two pics just show the basic insides. Basically it works off the idea, that when it winds down the points close and an electric magnet energizes and pulls the arm back. This winds the clock and opens the points. So a repeating cycle. If you look at the last two pictures you can see the points are open then closed. You can also see the end of the electric magnet below them has a piece of metal that is higher in pic three than 4. That is the arm that the magnet pulls and winds the clock. After looking it over I found mine had the points welded/stuck closed. The way I understand it, when you run the battery down to the point that the magnet doesn't work but the points have enough current flowing through them to cause them to stick. On mine it also loosened a solder joint to the magnet also. Probably when they charged the battery it melted the solder joint because the points were stuck and then it had more than enough current. To be honest if you can read a meter you have enough skill to trouble shoot this. It is very basic. I just thought of posting this after I put it back together so no pics of it disassembled. So after getting my electric magnet winding mechanism working it ran for probably 4 minutes then stopped before the points closed. So with a bit more research I found that contact cleaner works to clean the clock mechanism. So since I had some radio shack lubricated contact cleaner I sprayed down the inside, making sure not to get it on the dial. That did it. Now it works as advertised. Things I would do different. Initially I would take it out of its case before I tried it. This would let me check the points and manually pull the winding arm up to see if it would at least run. How do I know if my first try didn't melt the solder? Probably cleaning it in an ultra sonic bath. I can get done for free. Just didn't think of it at the time. At minimum use a non lubricated contact cleaner. Just seems like with everything lubed it will attract dirt and dust. Many web sites show where and how little oil to use. Since its working now, I will probably do the bath if it stops again. Anyway hope this helps someone. For what I have invested and no risk that I can see it seems like a worth while check. Normal disclaimer: Try it at your own risk. Hope this helps someone. Al

Sounds like you got the family involved and having fun. That is good to see and hear. Oh and post pics as you can.

Yes you can stop it. Just get some of the stretch insulation. Its clear like saran wrap. Just cover the entire window trim if equipped. Makes a frost shield just like some of the old car pics that have been posted. Used that in Alaska a few times in an older house I was in. Different design same problem IE keeping moisture from freezing.

http://www.bestweekever.tv/2011-01-13/girl-forgets-words-to-national-anthem-hockey-game/ Maybe those in attendance need to help out the Professionals. Worked for this young lady when the sound cut out. I think the 8 yo sounds better anyway.

I had a swamp cooler while stationed at Edwards AFB while in the service also. It cooled to about 10 to 15 degrees below ambient when it worked well. They also added a lot of humidity, which in a desert is helpful at times. The honey comb that the water ran over needed cleaning fairly often as I remember. If it wasn't clean you got very little cooling and a musty smell. I think that for any place other than a desert, it is just a period correct decoration that the owner may want to add. It is up to the car owner if it justifies the cost for something that may not work well, or if it would make their car look better. When it comes down to it, people buy things for a lot of reasons. I also think you answered your original question Mike.

If your compression is between 55 and 100 lbs, I assume you have done your compression test. If not do so just as described. If you have, then that is a wide variation as you probably know. Which makes me think that is why you pulled the head to begin with. From what little information is known I would have a GUESS that you have some broken rings. I get that from what I have read on the history of these engines and some more from what you have posted. Pulling a couple of pistons will give you all the info you need, say the cylinders that read the lowest. It also gives you the chance to clean the sludge out of the oil pan. Sounds like you know the answer as to if you will rebuild but here goes my two cents. Do the full rebuild but send out only the machine work. I went the other route and had mine rebuilt and while it runs I think I missed a lot of the fun and the chance to learn more about these work horses. It will also get rid of some of that money that seems to be burning your pockets.

Just noticed them. Been working around airfeilds a long time. Everything from B-2's to small aeroclub planes. Would love to have a shop that roomy, I just have half of a two car garage.

Your water distribution thread. http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=23951&d=1296547349 Looks like a prop cone in the background and an aircraft tire next to your tool box. I guess its a tractor tire. Maybe cones for windmill?

Yep love the shop and the progress. I am thinking you do some small aircraft work as well.

Looking at your removal pictures it looks like it is flared enough IMHO. My new one was almost closed so I opened it up to the rough shape of the port it went into. The flare only channels the water down the tube doesn't have to be a perfect seal just needs to be enough that it can do its job. Putting it back in is easy just keep it straight. I like the pinstriped tool box.

I think you will find Offys are heated by the exhaust not with water. Easy to check can you see the plug looking down into the carb mount? If so feel free to use either one.

Well as far as an MSDS they do not have to provide one unless it is a hazardous substance and you are exposing employees, consumers are not required to get them. Granted most companies will be happy to provide them. Subpart H (Hazcom) and subpart Z (Hazardous chemicals) can be found here if you want more information. http://www.osha.gov/pls/oshaweb/owasrch.search_form?p_doc_type=STANDARDS&p_toc_level=1&p_keyvalue=1910

Yes there were different materials. Brass and steel is the two I know of may be more. Flared in my opinion is a yes. You say yours is in good shape, have you pulled it out and looked at it? Mine was in excellent shape as well but was full of rust for the last 10 inches or so. I could have reused it after cleaning but since I had a new one went ahead and replaced it. A number of threads on how to pull it if you decide that is warranted. Hope this helps. Al

Interesting intake setup. Looks like the carbs are connected by a tube you could remove.

Interesting collection. I see three radios listed 2 830's and the 832. Won't fit my vehicle but Thanks for the heads up.

Yep Like Putting on a dual carb setup or installing a T5 tranny or a 25" engine in a car made for a 23" and ......... Actually just trying to cut down on the noise some.

I have considered a pusher with a temperature control. That way its not running all the time. Also it can run a minute or two after you shut it off to cool the engine. Having 6 volts may be an issue finding one. Is that what you are running? If so how is it cooling? I like your shroud. Seems like an easy enough build, thanks for the information. Running headers can you hear the fan?

Well I am looking at the noise as I have no problem with temperatures right now. So as fans are a big culprit when you are going down the road, why not get it a bit quieter if possible. Flex fans do have a reputation both for being sharp and coming apart. They come apart at high rpm though so with our flat 6's not a big problem.

So looking at changing my fan out. Currently have a 6 bladed fan with about a 5 1/2 inch pulley from a 55 230 engine. No shroud. 1950 Radiator boiled out with a 180 degree thermostat. Have a 160 also in case. I also have a 4 bladed fan and smaller pulley (4"?) from the original 217 engine. So I am wondering what would be my best options. Smaller pulley with the 4 bladed fan or the larger pulley with the 4 bladed fan? A shroud is on the agenda regardless. Also looking at flex fans or if I can find one that fits a thermostatic clutch fan. Looking at noise primarily next would be saving horse power. Cooling always. Thoughts from the forum? What are you running?

Many versions of that song. Hot Rod Lincoln has that in it. You forgot the part that lets the overdrive engage. . Now the fellas ribbed me for bein' behind, so I thought I'd make the Lincoln unwind. Took my foot off the gas'n'man alive, I shoved it on down into overdrive.

You can always adapt some thing from another car or go with the small chrome ones. I chose something from a late 50's Jag and added the flanges from the oil bath. It still needs some clean up and will be made into a cold air intake eventually but it suits me. Sometimes you just have to get creative. I have seen some stainless bowls used that look really nice actually. Anyway good luck..

Yep diagram and some other info on Blueskies site here. http://www.50plymouth.com/05-tra/tra.html

A bit more than bolted on from the little I know. It has a shaft that extends from the overdrive into the tranny. I think the more accurate term is swapping the tranny for an overdrive. Adding implies you can bolt on a unit to the back of an existing tranny. That requires a machine shop. Ed has it short sweet and to the point. Install is the same as a tranny with the addition of the wiring harness (easy) and a an engage disengage cable. Like a manual choke but a bit more stout. This may help. Read post 2 http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=23860&highlight=overdrive

I think stock gears are out of production. May find a set but at what cost?