Alshere59

Ok here is a long back ground Running a 40 R 7 overdrive 50 Bell housing 55 230 engine Clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing everything is new or rebuilt. Problem is that the clutch seems to be hanging up. You release it then occasionally it will hang and nothing then bam it engages. It is not continues but very intermittent. Cant get it to do it while I'm under it with the inspection plate off. Mock up showed nothing with the spline. A side note was upon assembly the clutch rod going to the fork was to short, I had it lengthened by weld in a 1" spacer to give adjustment. I chocked that up to the new flywheel and pressure plate etc.. Any list of likely culprits? This most likely then this? Any suggestions would be helpful.

Thanks Rodney

The hurry thing is probably where I am at. Working on old cars and hurring is not the way to do it I know. Oh well. Al

Anyone know of a shop in Dayton Ohio to rebuild a dizzy? I was hoping to take a trip this holiday weekend in the Plymouth. Its missing due to shaft wear. New rebuild running good except for that. Or does anyone have a good spare one they want to part with.

Hmm visual and magnet. Shiny silver nonmagnetic. Looks like aluminum or at least it polishes well. Had a lot of rust "stains". Aluminum will get eat up without cathodic protection. I will post a pic of it cleaned up later. .May not be aluminum but non ferous and looks like it to me. Any others have one to look at?

I believe your right it would be the exhaust valve. Yep long reach. I bought the "same plug different manufacturer number" according to the parts person. Never checked the length. They did run, I am just not a big fan of making them a zero clearance engine.

I just went with autolites after finding this while reading the pulgs. Yep contact with pistons. All six of them. Changed the gap by .015. Check the parts as you get them. Al

This is what he is talking about, and it is aluminum. The pipe is not. Liquid steel does adhere to aluminum, although I am not sure how long it would work in this case. Then again he shouldn't have to keep it as a long term fix. Al

My 230 has the squirter tube. The engine is marked 3 5 1955 at the bottom of the block between the dizzy and the oil fill tube . Anyone else have one? I thought the bore ws the same on the 218 and 230 the stroke was different. Al

I have a 1950 Plymouth aslo mine had both upper and lower when I disassembled the mount.

Not sure about a dipstick heater but I have the block heater in my welsch plug. 600 watts of heater an hour before I leave makes it toasty quick. Went from 38 to about 90 average in an hour. Interesting after checking with a non contact thermometer is that the front of the block was much warmer than the back. Center where the heater is installed was about 110. Mounted bottom middle of my L6 engine. Not the oil temp but I'm sure it helps as it is along the main oil gallery. 36 dollars at NAPA. I used to be stationed in Alaska and learned it saves on defroster times and gas. In Ohio not as much benefit but I still put one in during the recent rebuild. My heater isn't stock or very effective. So I will take any thing I can get. I will have to pay for the electric cause it does pull some juice.

back in and running. Taking out the two top bolts was the trick. Now to tackle the rest of the bugs. Thanks

Well tried that first. Not enough room gained but close. I went with taking out two bolts from the head of the pump. Slid out and back in. Barely.

Is there a way to pull the oil pump on a 1950 Plymouth short of taking the engine totally loose? Now it hits the frame before it comes out enough to remove it. Al

ID number is on the tail shaft. Look at the first pic. R7B-1 other numbers are right behind the solenoid. R7 has a single solenoid the R10 has 2 from what I understand.

I never have needed my DD214 Tim. Al

Sorry for the delay. Here are the pics. The extension is 6 inches long for scale. It is not a fluid drive. Al

Also for the Families of those that will not return regardless of origin you are remembered. I received this video and watched it with my granddaughter. 7 years old. http://www.youtube.com/watch_popup?v=KTb6qdPu8JE MSgt Dwayne Allen USAF Retired

Overdrives have electrical solenoids like the tranny far right that Don posted. The years you say he has I believe would make it an R7. They have one solenoid and will have R7 embossed on the case. As far as fitting Mopar L6 engines that would be a comparison. Mopar fluid drive etc. My tranny is getting pulled this week as part of an engine swap. It is an 1940 R7 so I could post picture then if you want. Al

So exchange rate is 10 feet of trench per motor mount??? Or is it ton of dirt?

Thanks Bob That is exactly what I wanted to know. I am waiting on an overdrive manual/book from ebid. It was only 10 dollars so not expecting alot but hoping. Al

The pictures are spot on. To reassemble is the spring pressure normal? I can not feel it fitting into any slot etc when pushed back in. I would hate to try it on the road and find out it tore something up when it engages. Now for the manual to get here. Al

Thank you for your help. I think I have it down now. Just need some tiome to do it.

Thanks I will give it a try. Does it mention how it lines up by chance? Spring tension supposed to be there? Al I will have to send off for the R7 manual.

I was fixing leaks today and noticed my solenoid was leaking on my overdrive. I have a 1940 R7 by the way. One selenoid. So I took it loose to see about making a new gasket for it. First it will not come all the way out and now it will not go in without spring tension. I do not remember any spring tension taking it loose and now the engage/disengage lever is stuck in the overdrive position. So is there a way to line it back up? Is the spring tension supposed to be there? If so why is my lever to disengage it stuck. It only goes halfway now. Anyone have any experience with these. Any help is appreciated. Al