Alshere59

Your right. Sorry for the confusion. So is it 48 links then?

NTP 9348 Should work. Its cheaper almost anywhere else. Napas price is $77.21. A lot of times at NAPA you have to feed it a part number from Cleavite etc. to make it find it. Rock has the same for 47 http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1349377&parttype=5724&partkey=5430&a=FRc1349377k5430-991440

I think it is tight from the rebuild. Mine cranked slow as well. Do you show oil pressure? Take it back to the basics. Firing order, points, how bad did it flood? Plugs wet? No gas in the oil? You may want to move the distributer a tad while cranking it. Backfiring through carb sounds like the timing is a tad off. To far advanced. You can hook up your timing light while cranking it will show your timing. You will still need to set it but batter than static.. Oh yea make sure the camera is running. Have to have a video ya know.

I did my first start back in November and was grinning ear to ear. Good luck to both of you even if it you don't need it. AND Post videos. A lot of work being done this winter. Wonder how many engine rebuilds etc.?

Glad getting the title for the 50 B2B was easy.

Hope your problems are solved. Keep us updated. Curious as to how they moved that much but as you had the vehicle a short time could be any thing the po did before. As to the question of why go to a newer style drive shaft for me it was the tearing of the boots on the old style and long term costs. That and I want to take mine cross country and I felt better about something I was more familiar with. The parts equaled most of the price for a new one. Almost 85% if I remember right. Your mileage may vary.

So whens the Big Day gonna be?

Used many a Coats 40/40 doing snow tires at the start of the season. Always a mad rush and good for money back in a day. Always hated the split rims and little tractor tires. Those made me nervous.

No problem I just hope everything goes well. Love your build I am sure you are up to any challenge. Trannys will tire you out. Although with enough practice you can drop them in 20 minutes and install them in 40 on a 50 Plymouth. Granted car was on stands and clutch etc was adjusted for the most part already but access plate was on. Ask me how I know? LOL. Oh no drive shaft on drop. Take care and will be looking for the start pics/video. Al

Hate to jump on the band wagon but alot of cautions on pulling up the tranny with the bolts. Your build and attention to detail has been outstanding to date. You sure you want to accept less now? Anyway one last caution. Your over center spring was out of adjustment? Thats not normal as you probably know. Could it be related to your alignment by chance? Or did you change out flywheel or style of pressure plate, Mine needed the clutch adjustment rod lengthened after changing to a 230 flywheel and matching pressure plate. Is it a matter of not enough adjustment? Just trying to help. Also a floor jack can be converted to a transmission jack fairly easy a lot of times. Mine just took a 8 inch piece of plate with a hole in each corner to mount some stacked 1x2s snugged to the tranny profile and one in the center for the lifting cup. Drilled a hole in the plate to bolt it to the jack as mine had a hole already. YMMV. I'm not young anymore and not sure what you used but I will take anything I can. I have pulled my tranny on this car a number of times. Never had to resort to anything other than some jiggling of the tail shaft and some up and down on the jack. Actually on any of the cars i have owned. Al Again excellent build and thread.

This thread has that info. http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=25364&highlight=post+pics If you are doing it as an attachment it is the paper clip looking option above where you type in text. You may have to use the advanced option to se it. Hope this helps. Al

Yes a PCV valve is supposed to be a controlled vacuum leak. Not between the cap and tube though. The cap I gave earlier will seal between the tube and cap as it has an O ring. The one I got has no vent to the outside just some filter material for the tube. My tube was round so it sealed well. This gives a whole lot more info. on operation if needed.

There are two types of PCV system open and closed. A threaded or sealed cap would be closed naturally. The schematic referenced for our engines are open. A nipple is attached to a fill tube for the hose going to the air filter. The cap would be the factory one. I purchased a cap from NAPA that is close to the same style and has a fitting for the hose to the air filter built in. I will see if I have a part number if you want. If you want a closed system, seal the filter at the base of the cap. I had to swap fill tubes from another engine that was round. I think it was this one. http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=BK_7031669_0299311797

If you are overheating that needs to be addressed as to the cause. If your running warmer than normal in city traffic, parades it should help in those situations. A shroud thread here gives an excellent way to make one. http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=25606&highlight=shroud

Oil slinger I believe. I thought they went behind the crank gear though on engines without the tube to lube the timing chain. Is there another?

Interesting thread. The obvious answer for the original poster seems to be a properly operating cooling system. He seems to have it figured out which is the most important thing but. Some things that were discussed generates food for thought, for me at least. Granted they would come into play more at idle and slow speeds but with fans you are turning a bit of weight and alot of drag on an engine. I thought fan shrouds were introduced around 1953 ish. Right wrong? Would they be needed or were they even installed on his? He has the 4 bladed fan with the smaller pulley(?) versus the 7 bladed fan with a larger pulley that was introduced about the same time as the shrouds from what I can tell. Is one better than the other? He has a 230 motor which I don't think that is stock for that year. Would the fan and pulley be matched for a shroud and/or 7 bladed fan? Agreed his problem seems to be speed related, which indicates flow of coolant versus air. However pulley size does increase coolant flow with a smaller pulley and decrease with a larger one. My questions are Was the change due to inadequate cooling on the 4 bladed fan or was it slowing the 7 bladed fan down with the larger pulley for another reason? Do we need to think about this when changing out engines? Was the 7 bladed fan and shroud introduced at the the same time? I can't find the answers. Some things I have looked at are: Cooling obviously. Any historical problems they (factory) addressed? Sound as fans are loud. A marketing issue? Loss of horse power and the gas mileage as well. (Which is why I am looking at it in all honesty.) Did the factory also? Picture included of the factory for the right year I believe. I don't see a shroud around the fan but it is not very detailed. Or are the shrouds discussed the "shields" in the manual? They woudl funnel air at speed I think. Either way I like the picture.

If your pump has both the top bypass fitting and the connection below the lower radiator hose you can run two lines next to each other and get rid of the rear connection. Or would this bypass to much water from the cooling system? Hard lines would work well this way as hose size would only have to be enough to match the plate for the intake. Well after finishing my coffee I think this may be good for apperance but thats about it. I don't think it would work.

The one by the D shaped port. More info can be found here. http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=6316&highlight=Water+Pump

Flock, or at times a Murder for crows. Geese are a gaggle. Besides I always consult my caterpillar's for long term forecasts.

Not sure this is completely accurate at least as I understand it. The new pumps NAPA stocks are set up for either from what I have researched. The difference is in the head and the head gasket used. The only difference on the water pump is the bolt on adapter as is stated. If you don't have the passage for the internal bypass it just deadheads as there is no matching hole for it to go into, but the gasket should seal it. The back plate would not need to be modified (welded) or switched out if I have it figured out right. If I am out in left field please chime in. The thermostat I am not sure if there is a difference or not. Looking at part numbers I would say no but....

This help any? See note in red text and the yellow underline is what you would click. Hitting enter after you paste each link stacks them. Hitting enter after you paste then typing text puts the text below the picture. Hope this helps. If you right click the attached pic you can print or save it, until it becomes a bit more familiar. Al

Same here red X. Down load and post again.

Here they are. Is the smoke from the tire blowing?

Napa has the pump for a bit under 76.00 but I see your in Sweden. http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?A=TFW42554_0258160664&An=599001+101950+50056+2056061 Do they have a NAPA equivalent there?

I really want this one. Well maybe not. At least at this price. http://macsautoparts.com/product.asp?camid=MDA&pn=JS0R3CHL1136901&bhcd2=1283273109