Alshere59

All the threads same subject? R7 yes on one on how to reinstall the solenoid. That is not not the same as this problem. The other is one labeled clutch problem as that was what it seemed to be. Kinda misleading I thought. This seemed simple and was just an old solenoid with markings worn off. I wanted to get it off the jack stand and see if it was fixed. Not a overdrive/clutch not working issue. I also do not think Mr. Ache did anything intentional or wrong. The oposite very helpful. I don't think calling at that time of night was the thing to do. I do not understand why you think your the forum police? If I am unclear then tell me that. You are very knowledgeable but even more arrogant. Should we all place a sign asking WWDD? For those that were helpful I thank you. If I created confusion I am sorry. My only intent was to finish the install as it seemed a waste to let what I thought was a simple issue be left hanging.

I think it (The solenoid) was replaced to ensure the OD worked as advertised. He did say he replaced the overdrive section since he could not pinpoint the source. The other was faint but there. Just old and worn/pitted nothing intentional, just very good intentions. Thank you The picture is all I needed Thank you very much. The layout should be the same. Yes I will mark it as well. J

No markings. Even rubbed some graphite on it then cleaned hoping to get something to show. Since they are both close together if looking down from the top. terminal A is at 12:00 then terminal 2 would be 2:00 which is the IGN? If that helps? Yep I have the wiring harness already just no way to tell which of them attach where on the Solenoid. It is an expensive part and really don't want to run the risk of burning it up.

Not sure if it will fit but I think its a good possibility. I used a 1955 230 mated to a 1950 bell housing with a 40 overdrive bolted on to that. The 50 Bell housing was for the rear motor/tranny mounts. The wild card may be the front mount. Look at the timing chain cover part especially. I did use the original 1950 horse shoe looking brace for the front mount to bolt to the frame. Maybe Check part numbers? Linkage bolted right up to the tranny. Also you will need the flywheel from the 230 as the crank has more bolts. The only thing I really ran into was the clutch rod wasn't long enough after using the 230 flywheel. Not enough adjustment. Cut it in half welded in a 1 inch piece of grade 8 bolt and it was fine. I was putting it in a 50 Plymouth so swap enough parts and you may be in there. There are a lot of cars running industrial flat 6s etc. Ods are in your favor.

Basic problem I have my tranny back. Went to wire it and the solenoid has no markings for the two terminals. So which is which? Would like to finish it tonight but which wire is which. It must have been replaced as the other was marked. Al

Then and now just rebuilt mine. $155 and included shipping. Not sure if they sell parts but you can always ask. http://www.maritimedragracing.com/then_and_now_automotive___se.htm

They have a power brake set up for a 50 Plymouth? Hmm am I reading that right?

I still think the 2200 dollar engine was the best deal. Overdrive, aluminum head, intake and headers. In what condition is anybodies guess. The race engine comment is just hype.

Chargimg system works great. I have the tranny in the garage may get to it tomorrow. Put my rebuilt dizzy in when I got home. Runs good. Anyway will post on the transmission progress when its in. Don didnt get your post tell I got back sorry. Al

So $1500 then you have these: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320622804783&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT this is a dodge flathead with hi comp head, 2 carb intake, split exh, gm dis, and all kinds of good stuff on it, it came out of my 52 car. i did brake a valve and that is why i took the eng out. well that and i wanted a v8. this eng comes with 2 trans. and all the hard to find speed parts that i spent the last 10 year finding. i have $1,000 in the head alone. any ? ask i will get back to you a.s.a.p. thanks for looking. Q: what brand of head intake and carbs,what was done to the engine prior to breaking the valve.cam?compression?porting?is it stock?thanks A: the head is a edmounds, intake is offy, carbs are stock b&b just 2 of em. other wise the eng is all stock. NOTE Headers look to be a set of langdon's Selling price $1,560.00 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180588420606&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT Original Fenton Aluminum Head for Plymouth / Dodge / Flathead Six L6 / 218 / 230 This head is for the small inline six cylinder Plymouth, and Dodge. The engine this was removed from was full of anti-freeze, and there appears to be no corrosion in the water jackets. The exterior of the head, and combustion chambers look to be excellent. I can have this glass beaded and it will be nearly perfect. The little bit of dirt, and the carbon are 'as found' just to let you see how good this head is. They don't come much better except NOS. Make that early 50's rod, or rat rod shine with a Fenton aluminum head with higher compression. Selling price $560.00 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130460957387&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:VRI You are looking at a Mopar flathead six engine. The motor was rebuilt and is equipped with an edmunds head,duel carbs, and stovebolt engineering headers.It comes with an overdrive 3 speed transmission with cables.This would be great in any Mopar 30's,40's and 50's car.The motor is clean,painted and ready to drop in. The starter was rebuilt.I will not ship this motor. You can make arrangements to have it picked up. I am in the Boston area.Payment in full within 7 days of auction ending. Verifiable bank check,wire transfer from a bank or cash only. Selling price $2200 I don't get it. The prices are all over the board. The last engines considering individual parts would seem to be the better deal. The prices don't show that. I have said it before my engine parts would be up there in a second I f I could get those prices.

Well talked to George today. He didn't find anything wrong but has replaced everything in the overdrive section as a precaution. So weather permitting I will pick it up this weekend. Still a 10 hour round trip so that is probably all I will get done. I will post again when its in. A side note that I didn't mention was that the overdrive kicked in about 40 mph. The Governor was replaced as well So hoping its sorted out now. George was excellent to work with by the way.

Girdy. As in Girdle, like whats on the radiator. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Girdle

It's always good when someone actually gets back to tell what the problem was. A lot of times you just assume the OP fixed the problem.

Do you have a custom shift knob by chance? Seen one years ago where the weight pulled it out. Long shot but.... Al

Excellent car. Post pics as you get it on the road. Would love to know what it needed.

Anyone call a TAXI? If I was closer I would have to check that out. http://houston.craigslist.org/cto/2063832587.html Al

Mine is not that detailed. I did connect it the same way. Just wanted to make sure my assumptions were correct. You know what they say about assuming. PS I have read all of Blue Skies site. He used the R 10 and wasn't sure how the wiring matched. Thanks for your posts.

Well called George. The transmissio0n will be there tomorrow. So the car is missing its tranny and the Dizzy is out heading to then and now Antique autoparts cellar. At least the rebuilt engine seems to be fine. I could use another wiring diagram for an R7. Mine is a hand drawn one. Just to be on the safe side. Anyone?

Short trip (90 miles highway) with an R7 over drive average speed 65. Mileage 22.8. Rebuilt Stock 230 bored twenty over head shaved 30 thousandths. Dual carb Fenton with Carter BB's. Rea rend ratio 3.9. 15 inch tires. (To lazy to go get the exact size.) I did have an intermittent miss from a worn distributer shaft. So until I get that back from being rebuilt and my overdrive being looked at I cant try it again. Love getting bugs out after a rebuild.

Calling is on the agenda. I will wait to make sure it is not electrical. I think it is in the od itself though. When locked out there is no problem. Either way I want to make sure it is in his area.

George rebuilt it yes.

Thanks for the information. I am looking at it now. The solenoid is engaged all the time if memory serves. Would a electric short disengage and reengage it?

Ok a quick update. After watching the clutch linkage pressure plate and finding nothing. I took it out again. It acted up and disengaged itself. Basicall a quick jerk then free wheeled. That is a first never disengaged itself before. So I disengaged the OD on the R7 and drove it all through the subdivision. Did not act up once. I leave it in overdrive as the road at the end of my street is 55 MPH. So can the OD do that. The R7 is a centrifical clutch. I thought it disengaged below 28? Anyway off to find the wiring schematic to compare to what I have. Maybe call George Asche. Take care and any thoughts let me know. To answer the questio0ns for those offering help. Engine has roughgly 100 miles on it after the rebuild. Clutch pressure plate etc was all rebuilt or new at that time. Mock up let the disk slide on the spline easily. Tranny has maybe 250 miles since I installed it. Its a rebuild from Mr. Asche. Initial install was quirky as it shifted into overdrive at 38 to 42. It did not hang/fail to move like it is now though. The intent was to take it up and have Mr. Asche look at it after the engine was broke in. I have watched the linkage and clutch after taking off the sheet metal panel on the bottom of the bell housing. No hanging found anywhere while stationary. Have cleaned and regreased all the pivot/linkage points. Pedal returns to the top when it hangs and feels the same pushing down. So no change that I can tell anyway. Al

Pedal returns the clutch isn't engaged. Not hanging up on the floor. Motor mounts are new front and back. Just put in a rebuilt engine.

A block heater is about the same as changing out a freeze plug. I would go for one on the bottom and centrally located. Just remember they only need a hour or two to warm the block. So a timer would be a good idea. Yes the rule of thumb is below 20 F. It will help with the defroster a lot, and starting. Napa has them for 36ish dollars. Mine is shown here.