Alshere59

For the long wrm up I would look at the thermastat. Sounds like its not sealed or stuck open half way. If its going around corners only when it coughs etc. I would say the float. So only at low speed? Assuming it does this warm or cold. What was the last thing you worked on before this started last fall?

So where did you get your seat covers? I am looking at replacing mine? Al

So wheres the video?

Welcome to the forum. So what part of Saint Louis? Saint Ann, Bridgeton, Hazelwood etc. I grew up there and visit often as I have family all over Mo. and Il. Al

Just for general information the standard suspension kit from Kanters contains everything in the picture. I need the king pins and upper control arm eccentric pin. So for me it was worth the cost to get it all done at once. Now to get it all installed and aligned. Also shipping was really quick had it at the door two days after order.

Never heard of Ackerman in all honesty. I knew the wheels had different angles and why in a turn but not the how. I do see your point after a bit of reading though. It would change both the angle and length. Would the effect be that pronounced with roughly 3/16 of an inch on both sides. Also how would the increase in length play out. I think I'm happier not knowing. If anyone else was wondering what Ackerman is here is one of the sights I was reading. http://www.rc-truckncar-tuning.com/ackerman.html

So now the question is when re-torquing the head after starting I thought you let it cool first? Now I'm confused.. Well with it out is a good time to see if its shrouded some how. Basically a good path for the coolant to your temp sensor.

Hold it in needle nose and submerge in very hot water. Any bubbles and it has a leak. http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Troubleshooting.htm

Theres always epay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Corvette-1955-1957-1959-1962-Ground-Strap-Short-One-/140523010160?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20b7d2f870

If I remember right you ran it for 25 minutes. Even if you had a bubble the fittings holding into the block should have put enough heat into the guage to register something. Bad guage is what it sounds like.

Well links broke but put in IR thermometer in the search box. Agreed nothing like a contact thermometer. IR has its uses as well though. Mine is pretty accurate on engine temps.

Home depot has them listed ask for a IR non contact thermometer. http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100674438/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

I am researching the same information. Anyone have info on Kanters kits. Looking at the standard suspension kit and no parts list is included. http://www.kanter.com///productdetail.aspx?Tg=8749945&Mak=Plymouth&Yr=50&Dv=1&Dpt=1600&Sb=0&Vdr=Kanter&Itm=03689H&MDv=1&MDpt=0&MSb=0&Cat=39&Prc=182 There email says only this when asks what it contains. Hi,The kit contains: king pin kits control arm bushings outer tie rods Called them and they stated it comes with everything for the upper and lower control arms inner and out. Anyone ever get this kit. Is everything there for the upper and lower control arms. A little worried when all they have listed is bushings?

It made a pretty big difference on toe in on mine. Granted I don't know what it was before I started but after it really needed adjustment. Also had to take out the master cylinder check valve and replace with a 2 lb residual valve in the front due to dragging front brakes. I put a 10 lb in the rear as well. I am using the original master cylinder for now.

Sounds like the needle valve is stuck. Or float is hung as mentioned.

Thankls Joe.

Thanks Aero.

Nice video. I see you have the second up as well. Here is the link for those interested.

Congrats. Glad to hear you got it worked out for the most part. So what was your initial valve setting? Actually I was wondering what did you and Aero both use? He didn't mention any valve noise? Mine had a bit more than I like using the cold setting of 14. Per my manual.

Nice I like everything in one place. Other than different valve settings looks good but I am no expert. So what is the forum members recommended settings for a hot engine? Were you going to add dual carb adjustment? I had a guy down the street offer a way that I had never read. It worked for me so here is his input. Using a spring scale (I used a fish scale) measure the tension on the throttle linkage holding it at idle. Loosen one of the linkage arms. (Engine off so it doesn't go WOT.) Then using the same spring scale attach it to the now loose linkage arm setting the tension from your previous reading. Arm is still connected but pivots on shaft easily and the scale would pull in a way to eliminate any play in the connections. Mine had a small amount so I connected it on the shaft arm. I know any play in the linkage will throw it off, but my connections are new but I still had a small amount of play. Using the Carburetor Synchronizer adjust each carb for air flow as you would normally. Once you get both carbs set, tighten the loose arm remove the spring scale and retest. Mine worked first time. After trying the other methods a few times this seemed much easier. Just throwing it out there. For those that prefer to sync at 1800 rpm's this method won't work obviously. The way it was explained to me was that at 1800 rpm's the open plenum cancels out any minor adjustments. The assumption being that they butterflys in the carb are close to begin with. Who's right is anybodies guess. I like this as it worked first time and his explanation made sense. At least to me anyway.

Is that a Russian Volga he is working on?

I have this one. Hope it helps, I wasn't sure if you meant the whole schematic but that is what I have.

Agreed. I wouldn't change a thing.

Now to wait for the DVD.

I tried it on a calculator once. It didn't work as it only had 8 digits.