Doug&Deb
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Everything posted by Doug&Deb
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Get an inline spark tester at your local parts store. Then you’ll know whether you have spark or not. How do the wires in the distributor look. I had a wire shorting on the inside of the housing and it took a while to find. It’s also possible that your fuel pump is going bad. Modern fuel with ethanol is rough on the diaphragm. It could also be some crud has gotten loose in the carb. Good luck and keep us posted.
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Well done! Looking forward to the video. I’ll be tackling a rebuild soon so it will be instructive for me.
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Check the wires in the distributor also. I just had a problem with insulation wearing off and causing a short when the vacuum advance moved the breaker plate. Bypass the fuel tank first. That’s an easy test. Servicing the distributor wouldn’t be a bad idea either.
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Prices for both cars and parts are generally pretty inflated lately. Auto Roundup has more reasonably priced cars and the internet is a better resource for parts. Cars like ours aren’t popular anyway except for crazy people like us lol.
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What is the history of the engine? If it’s been rebuilt any good quality modern oil will work. I use Shell Rotella T 15W40 because of the extra zinc. If not rebuilt I’d use only non detergent 30W . Putting detergent oil in an old engine can cause sludge to migrate and clog things.
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Turns out the problem with my old distributor was caused by the vacuum advance but not because it’s bad. The wire to the points was being rubbed against the housing from the advance causing a short. Lucky I made it home lol. It’s now fixed and I have a good spare distributor.
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I recommend nickel copper line. I made my own. It’s easy to work with and lasts forever. Be aware of the ferrule in the fuel line coming out of the tank. They’re hard to find.
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I used a pipe wrench very carefully.
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If you don’t remove the residual valve from the master cylinder the front brakes won’t release. The inline valves are plumbed in right behind the master. I used two short pre-made lines. The valve in the master is 10lb too much for discs.
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I have a Scarebird kit on my 52 Coronet. Did you pull the residual valve from the master cylinder? I added 2 inline residual valves to the system. 2lb to the front and 10lb to the rear. With the master cylinder under the floor this keeps air from getting into the system.
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Nice! Is that a Scarebird kit?
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How hot are you running? I have an aluminum radiator with no electric fan on my 52 Coronet. I have a Stewart Warner temperature gauge to monitor the engine. On a hot day I run around 190 degrees occasionally getting to 200 or so when stopped. Engine was rebuilt 8000 miles ago. Running hot is different from overheating. Timing plays a role also. Plus the low idle speed doesn’t allow much airflow to cool down.
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Happy New Year to all.
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How hot is it running? My Coronet runs between 180/200 on a hot day. It doesn’t overheat just runs hot. It’s a rebuilt engine with 8000 or so miles and a 180 thermostat. I’m aware that timing affects temperature just not sure how.
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I know there are places to get them rebuilt. It’s annoying that I can’t find the parts to do it myself. I doubt that the places that rebuild them manufacture their own components. I’m just being cheap. I only want this for a spare distributor that I may never use. Just venting lol.
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This is a rebuilt unit. Obviously someone makes parts for them. It’s not holding vacuum so I’m guessing the diaphragm is shot. When I ordered it I had to send them a core. I’ll check that link.
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I ran across this on Rockauto’s site. They show both a 6 volt negative ground and positive ground kits though the positive ground is currently unavailable. Has anyone heard of this or had any experience with them? They only show a kit for IGS or IAP distributors. Just curious.
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Sorry, the vacuum advance unit.
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The vacuum advance failed on a distributor I have. I’d like to rebuild it myself but I’m having no luck finding any parts. Since this was a rebuilt unit from Kanter parts must be available somewhere. Distributor is an IAP-4103A-1. I’ve replaced the dizzy but I’d like to have this as a spare.
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Yes. Quick easy fix for an out of round drum.
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If you go the Pertronix route and you have the semi auto trans make sure you search the threads on here. If you don’t add a resistor you’ll burn up the module. Mine worked three times. I’ll stick with points for now.
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I have a scarebird kit on my Coronet with the original mc. No problem so far.
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Got things fixed finally. Bogging was caused by a bad vacuum advance in the first dizzy. Lack of spark in second dizzy was a bad condenser (thanks for the tip Mr Adams). It’s a shame that brand new tune up parts are so hit or miss. I found one in my parts stash that says made in the USA so hopefully it lasts awhile. Thanks everyone for your help.
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The distributor with the bad advance is IAP-4103A-1 . Different advance unit. What am I looking for on the carbon rod in the cap? Should it be touching the top of the rotor. Pardon my ignorance if that’s a dumb question but I’m trying to learn.
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I changed the coil and no luck. Runs with the old distributor not the new. The cap is correct I think. The plunger makes contact. I can feel slight pressure when I install the cap. Distributor is a IAT-4011
