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Doug&Deb

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Everything posted by Doug&Deb

  1. Sorry, let me clarify. Power at the points when open(test light flashes when cranking). No power coming out of dizzy. The old dizzy works with the same wire connections so it’s something in the dizzy.
  2. This is a continuation of my bogging problem. I’ve determined that the vacuum advance is causing the problem. I have another distributor that is actually the correct one for the car. For some reason I’m not getting spark. I’m getting power to the points but not the plugs. Everything is new in the distributor. What am I missing?
  3. Merry Christmas to all. Thanks to everyone on here. Every day is a learning experience thanks to all of you.
  4. There are two versions of the Sisson choke. The more common mounts behind the carb. 49/52 Dodge and Plymouth used one that mounts in front of the carb. These are much harder to find and worth more. All are very reliable. For more specifics I would ask Rich Hartung. He’s the most knowledgeable I’ve found on the subject.
  5. Got it. The distributor in the car is incorrect for the year. I have a correct IAT-4011 to install. I will change the condenser on the current distributor to see if that corrects the problem. It’s still a good distributor. Never hurts to have a spare.
  6. The trans must be removed first. Be careful with the fluid coupling when pulling the trans. A hoist with a leveler will work. If you can remove the front clip it would be easier but removing the hood and radiator will be sufficient. Doing it on the street isn’t fun. Been there done that.
  7. Which wire are you referring to? Something in the distributor? I’m going to try plugging the vacuum line next. This was a sudden problem. Prior to this it was running great. It’s probably something simple. With my limited mechanical skills it becomes a slower learning process. With 6 grandkids and Christmas 3 days away free time is limited lol.
  8. I’m thinking it’s a problem with the vacuum advance. As soon as I have time I’m going to check. I’m going to change the distributor anyway but I’d like to solve the problem for my curiosity.
  9. Ethanol resistant hose. Everything tight on the carb. I’m going to replace the inline fuel filter just because they’re inexpensive. No vacuum leaks that I can find. I just finished rebuilding the correct distributor for the car. The one that came with it works but it’s for a 49/50 Coronet. While I’m into changing it I’ll do a compression test. This has me stumped ( not that it’s hard to do).
  10. No carb problems that I can tell Rich. The rebuild was around 1000 or so miles ago. Nothing in the sediment bowl or in-line filter. Fuel that drained out of the line was clear. The car idles smoothly. When I give any throttle it chugs and shakes. I tried to add a video but it’s too large and I don’t know how to condense it.
  11. Still no resolution to my problem. Points are good and gap is correct as confirmed by my dwell meter. Timing is correct as is idle speed. I isolated the ignition switch to see if it was bad and it’s not the issue. Fuel filter is clean and sediment bowl also. I’m running out of ideas. Possibly the condenser but the engine idles smoothly so I’m not sure. I’ll try to add a video for the sound.
  12. That’s awesome! If you can figure out how to put that on the download section it would be a big help for those of us with the semi auto. Great find!
  13. Thanks for all the info. I have some checks to make. It came on so suddenly and that threw me.
  14. Didn’t think of that. Would that cause the lack of fuel squirt in the carb? Probably a dumb question but I’m not good at diagnosis.
  15. While running I cycled the throttle. A quick blip gives a good stream of fuel. At normal throttle not much and the engine chugs and bogs. Point gap is correct and dwell is in spec. Seems like the accelerator pump but I’m not sure how or why.
  16. I try to drive my Coronet once a week weather permitting. Today it started bogging badly under acceleration. I’m not sure if it’s fuel or spark. It still idles normally. Cold startup was normal. I ran to town for an errand and this started on the way home. Recent carb rebuild and tune up (within the last 1000 miles). The car has been running great until today. Nothing looks amiss under the hood. Any idea where to start looking?
  17. An impact gun may work. After a few shocks on mine it came loose with a breaker bar.
  18. Agreed. 46 through early 49 are identical.
  19. There are many reasons owners convert to discs. In my case an out of round drum at the limit of being cut and the price of an NOS one. I prefer originality but financially it was cheaper to convert.
  20. Before removing the fluid coupling make 4 wood wedges to wedge between the clutch assembly and the coupling. Cut a groove on the outside of the wedges and twist wire around them to immobilize them. You don’t want any side loading on the carbon seal. Be aware of the dowel pins in the bell housing. Drive them into the housing from the engine side just enough to free the bell housing.
  21. Once the engine is at operating temperature you shouldn’t need the choke. Every carbureted engine has its own unique starting procedure. A little trial and error and it becomes second nature.
  22. Bleeding them is best done with two people. Also without the proper adjustment tool they don’t always work as well as they should. Properly adjusted these brakes were better than most other cars.
  23. If you figure out how to rebuild fluid couplings you may have a good side job lol.
  24. The service manual was written for mechanics who worked on these cars every day not crazy people like us 70 years later. They assume a certain amount of knowledge. That’s why this forum is essential. Be very careful with the fluid coupling. The last thing you need is to crack the carbon seal.
  25. Nice car! Welcome to the forum. Lots of knowledge here. Don’t be afraid to ask questions.
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