Doug&Deb
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Everything posted by Doug&Deb
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Beautiful!
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That’s not necessarily a bad thing. That cleans out the sludge. I used that method on my D24 before switching to detergent oil.
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No fluid drive in Plymouth in 50.
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Hershey Fall Swap Meet October 6-9 Invited to Stop at site OAD 7&8
Doug&Deb replied to desoto1939's topic in P15-D24 Forum
The wife and I will be there. I look forward to meeting you. -
The plug on the intake manifold is what you need. Try soaking it with a good penetrating oil before removing it.
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Makes sense to me. Thanks
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Why the shortest? Because of the ethanol in the gas? I’m rebuilding a spare carb and I was thinking some adjustments would be needed to compensate for modern gas.
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On a Stromberg carb the accelerator pump link is normally in the center hole. Has anyone seen any benefit from extending the pump stroke?
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I was wondering how many engines failed back in the day because owners bought the new type of oil. It was marketed as a wonder product for cleaning up the sludge in your engine.
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Found my camshaft! - Pulling motor on 1948 Dodge.
Doug&Deb replied to Bryan's topic in P15-D24 Forum
That interior is awesome. I’m in the process of tearing down an engine and rebuilding it myself. Like you I’ll lean on the expertise on this forum. -
I believe detergent oils were introduced in the 50’s due to the rise of ohv engines. I’m sure they were marketed as a wonder product for engines. I’m curious about how many prematurely failed because of sludge migrating to places it shouldn’t have.
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Does anyone know if the raised part of the air horn is replaceable? I’m referring to the place where the dashpot comes through.
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I got it. Thanks everyone for the help. Now onto the clutch and fluid coupling. I have wedges to put between the two. After wedging things in place am I removing the clutch and fluid coupling as one assembly?
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Not to sound dumb but I’d have to punch them into the bell housing and out of the block in order to remove the bell housing. I can’t drive them further into the block. Am I overthinking it?
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I would have to punch them in the direction of the bell housing?
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Interesting, thanks.
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I’m trying to decode the 230 I’m tearing down. Here’s the number. L230 star I44603 star. My phone won’t print stars. I’ll try to post a picture.
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This is the first of many probably dumb questions I’ll be asking. I’m tearing down and rebuilding a 230 out of a 51 Coronet. How do I remove the bell housing? It’s hanging on the dowel pins and seems to be hung up on the fluid coupling. Does that have to be removed first? The engine is seized so turning it to access the bolts isn’t an option. Do I have to free the engine first? I know I have to be extra careful removing the fluid coupling so I need advice. Thanks
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I ended up finding a used one in a junkyard half a mile from my house lol. So far so good.
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I understand running the rebuilt engine in the car but in my case this is a spare engine. I’m probably going to transplant it into my ear eventually. I’ve never rebuilt an engine before so I’d rather find out my mistakes before I get to that point. The engine currently in the car was rebuilt 8000 miles ago and it wasn’t a smooth process. If we could have run it on a stand we could have avoided the problems that we had.
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Freewheeling eliminates engine braking on hills. It was discontinued fairly quickly in the 30’s because it was dangerous. If I remember correctly it did allow you to shift gears without using the clutch.
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Thanks everyone. Commercial test stands are made for v-8’s so I’ll build one.
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Any recommendations for an engine stand? I’m looking for something to use after assembly to do the initial start up. Or am I better off making my own? Thanks
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The wheel studs are probably Dodge. Only Dodge used studs and nuts. The others I’m not sure.
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I scored a great deal on an engine and trans for the Coronet. The engine is seized but I’m planning on rebuilding it anyway. I’m 59 so I guess I should learn how to do it. Eventually I’m getting the rear axle from this car also. Plus I made a new friend in the hobby and that’s what it’s all about.
