Doug&Deb
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Everything posted by Doug&Deb
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Beautiful!
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I would continue to drive with the available fuel. If you have any problems they can be addressed with a carb rebuild and a new fuel pump. The new kits and pumps are ethanol resistant. As long as the alcohol is in the gas and not the driver you’re good.
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How cool! That’s a picture worth framing.
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Most every day is a nice day for a drive for me lol.
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I’d be smiling too! That’s one beautiful interior.
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This is a stretch but have you checked the engine mounts? Excessive wear could cause things to move strangely. Also are you sure the noise is from the trans?
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For what it will cost I’d find used ones in a junkyard and have that glass replaced as well.
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I’m pretty sure the glass won’t work. Not sure about the seat track. Other than some mechanical parts I doubt that much interchanges. The cars were completely restyled for 49. I also recommend getting new safety glass cut. Any glass shop can use the old windows as templates.
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I used a Daytona kit. No additives in the gas. Mopar started using hardened exhaust valve seats in 1935. Gyromatic does not have a torque converter just a fluid coupling. Not sure how to unstick the clutch. Try lubing all moving parts of the linkage. Hopefully others will chime in. When you’re ready to drive it let us know and we’ll explain the operation of the trans.
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You have the correct carb for your car. A rebuild kit will have ethanol resistant parts which will prevent future problems in that area. What are your concerns about the trans. I have a 52 Coronet with the Gyromatic so I’m pretty familiar with it.
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Thanks, I’ll check it out
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Recently I recall reading something on this forum about checking timing by engine vacuum. I can’t remember what thread I saw it on. Am I correct about this? If so I’m curious as to the procedure. I’m intrigued.
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Someone put a lot of work into that top chop. Sort of defeats KT Keller’s idea of being able to wear a hat while driving lol. I concur that it’s a 50 Plymouth.
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The heat shield will help. Check the state of tune ( timing, carb settings etc). Is this a sudden problem or has it gradually changed? Normally my Coronet is hard to start when hot because of heat buildup under the hood. Once I rev the engine a few times to bring the temperature down it runs fine. Also check the routing of the fuel line from the pump to the carb. Make sure it’s not too close to the manifold.
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Does the cylinder head say spitfire on it. The Chrysler engine is 25 inches long and 250.6 cubic inches. The dodge engine is 23 inches long and 230.2 cubic inches. If you have a Chrysler engine in your dodge the radiator has been moved forward to accommodate the longer engine. The engine number will solve the mystery. Either way a service manual is a must. Reprints are readily available and inexpensive.
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I’ve had better luck setting points with the distributor out of the car. It’s tough to see that far down in the engine compartment. Manually turn your engine to tdc on number 1 cylinder before removing the distributor. This also gives you a good reason to check your timing when finished.
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No pictures, sorry. Today was rainy and crappy but man these old cars are comfy to drive!
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My wife and I took the Coronet to State College PA to visit my sister and brother in law. 300 odd miles round trip. That’s the furthest from home we’ve been with it. The car performed flawlessly even on some pretty steep mountain passes. Makes me want to take more trips in it.
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Is there a valve screwed into the rear of the cylinder head? Some applications have a shutoff valve for the heater.
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After all the searching for a latch I found one a half mile from my house. The local yard has a 51 or 52 Plymouth plus a set of doors from another Plymouth. Got the latch from the loose door and the sisson choke from the car. The latch is frozen so it’s soaking and I have no idea about the choke so we’ll see.
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Thanks. I’m going to look at my local yard. They think they have one. We’ll see
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The part number is 1242694. If not I’ll contact your source. Thanks much!
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Not quite as bad but still out of reach at the moment. I’ll give them a call though. Thanks
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As usual I only break parts made of unobtainium. I’ve managed to find one NOS drivers side latch in the US and Canada. When told the price we both kept repeating it to each other then I politely thanked him for his time. I know you have to pay the piper when parts are scarce but sometimes it’s just impossible. I’ve found two in junkyards. The one today was worse than mine (no surprise). Hopefully the next one is usable. I’m too old to weld it shut and do the dukes of hazard thing. Wish me luck.
