Doug&Deb

What PA said. You have to order by the distributor number because you never know whether a previous owner changed it over the years.

Rebuild kits are available and it’s not a bad job. Removing it sucks unfortunately. The shaft goes from the box to the steering wheel. You have to get the front end high enough to pull the whole thing out from the bottom. Now would also be a good time to check all the tie rods. I’ve done this and I’m the worst mechanic I know lol.

The tank and lines are new. The air leak is caused by the pump screws coming loose possibly because the pump is wrong for this engine. The cam lobe may be worn by now. The engine was recently rebuilt by me and I didn’t notice any wear nor did the machine shop but I’ve put around 3500 miles on it with probably the wrong pump so who knows. I’m waiting on the hopefully correct pump to come in and I’ll see what the cam lobe looks like.

Are you referring to the length of the stroke from one to the other?

New line from tank to carb. Why is the truck pump different from the car application? The pivot lever is totally different. The pump on the car now worked fine on the original engine and it and two others I’ve tried have all had the same issue on this engine. The screws holding the pump together keep loosening quickly causing a leak and causing it to suck air which I’m sure is causing the starvation issue. I’ve ordered a truck specific pump to try. For now I’m removing the pump and running the electric pump just to keep the car roadworthy.

Now I’m really confused.

I wish I could help. Whatever spares I had are long gone. You are correct. The switch on the front is the electric dash pot and the kick down is on the side. I’ve been able to find carbs at swap meets in the past. Also check eBay and facebook marketplace. If you have any junk yards in your area try them. I would think the shop that lost the parts should be responsible for replacing them.

For my Coronet I drilled a piece of bar stock to match the original hold down. It’s been there for five years now. I do agree with checking for a draw on your electrical system. Also fully charge your battery then load test it.

I have a 52 Coronet but the engine is from a 58 D-100. It has the correct ancillary equipment to work in a car. The problem I’m having is fuel starvation on hills. I’ve tried three different pumps and they all have the same problem. The one on there now always worked fine on the original engine. I should add that part of the problem is leakage from where the pump is screwed together. After looking up the pump for the truck I realized it’s completely different from the car application. I’m wondering if the cam is different and it’s trying to stroke the pump farther than it should. I’ll try to include pictures to show what I mean. I’ve ordered a truck pump to see if it works.

I have a 52 Coronet but the engine is from a 58 D-100. It has the correct ancillary equipment to work in a car. The problem I’m having is fuel starvation on hills. I’ve tried three different pumps and they all have the same problem. The one on there now always worked fine on the original engine. I should add that part of the problem is leakage from where the pump is screwed together. After looking up the pump for the truck I realized it’s completely different from the car application. I’m wondering if the cam is different and it’s trying to stroke the pump farther than it should. I’ll try to include pictures to show what I mean. I’ve ordered a truck pump to see if it works.

The float level is good. My concern is if the cam was changed between 52 and 58. There must be a reason why the levers are so different. I still have the original engine for my car and the mounting point for the pumps are the same. All I know is the pump I’m currently using is the one that was on the original engine and I had no fuel issues with it. Plenty of other things but not fuel delivery.

From talking to a mechanic friend he thinks it’s the wrong pump. Since the correct pump is not expensive I’m going to try it. I should add that the screws holding the pump together keep loosening which causes a leak which definitely causes fuel starvation. I’m guessing the cam is just different enough that the lever is getting pushed too far and never completely returning to get primed. I’ll follow up once I get this sorted.

No, stock carb. I did do the test where so many pump strokes equals a certain amount of fuel (done in a vice) and that was fine. I may be overthinking this but this is a nagging issue.

Sorry I should have been more specific. I’ve had fuel starvation on hills since I put this engine in my car. The electric pump was already on and I used it for priming and vapor lock but it does clear up the problem if I switch it on. The problem has occurred with three different mechanical pumps so I doubt they’re all bad. The lever arms are so different between the two pumps that I’m not sure how the ones I have are working at all. I’m trying to decide whether to buy a truck specific pump or not.

The engine in my 52 Coronet is originally from a 58 D-100 truck. I’ve been having problems with fuel delivery and after looking at the different pumps I’m wondering if the fact that I have a car specific pump is the problem. The actuating levers are completely different. The car is a straight arm and the truck has a downward bend. I’m not even sure how the car pump is working at all. I’m trying to decide whether to order a truck specific pump or just stick with the electric pump. I kind of like having both. I should add that this engine was in a 51 Coronet when I bought it and the pump was already missing.

The engine in my 52 Coronet is originally from a 58 D-100 truck. I’ve been having problems with fuel delivery and after looking at the different pumps I’m wondering if the fact that I have a car specific pump is the problem. The actuating levers are completely different. The car is a straight arm and the truck has a downward bend. I’m not even sure how the car pump is working at all. I’m trying to decide whether to order a truck specific pump or just stick with the electric pump. I kind of like having both. I should add that this engine was in a 51 Coronet when I bought it and the pump was already missing.

The clutch on cars with the semi auto trans is not as robust as standard shift cars so I wouldn’t slip the clutch. Release it slowly then drive away.

Back then you were supposed to enter and exit your car curbside. That’s why the interior lights don’t come on when the drivers door opens. Makes sense from a safety standpoint.

Yes the M5 I think.

The Chrysler has the semi automatic transmission which I believe requires a different distributor than the standard transmission.

I’m not aware of anyone who has done this successfully sorry to say. If you figure it out please share how. This is a question that comes up frequently. The trans will up shift with no electrical with no problem. It’s the down shift part that requires the electrical part.

If you’re lucky your canister will have a drain plug for removing the oil. They apparently did away with that in 49. If I recall it’s a brass plug so don’t get carried away tightening it.

The filter element is available but I don’t remember the number. I’m thinking the Fram number is C134PL . Hopefully someone else will chime in.

There were two options. One was a sealed filter that was replaced as a unit and the other was what you have that has a replaceable element inside. It looks original to me.

Bob I was wrong to call it a bubble flare. It resembles an umbrella from the side. The replacement tank I installed has the same fitting. Unless my original line had been over tightened and I’m overthinking this. I’m going to try a standard inverted flare fitting on the old tank and see how it fits.