Merle Coggins

If you drop the pan and clean out any accumulated sludge, you could then use a modern detergent oil without worry. You’d probably also want to remove the valve covers, under the manifolds, and clean out the valve tapped area too. If you get the sludge out you won’t have to worry about the detergents breaking it down and dispersing it through the engine. Have you done a compression test yet? That’ll tell you if you have any sticking valves. Also, if you remove the valve covers you’ll be able to see if any are stuck open. If any are stuck you may get lucky and be able to start it on the remaining cylinders. Once it warms up a bit they may loosen up and function again. Otherwise you’ll probably need to remove the head so you can work with them to free them up without damage.

Welcome to the “family”. What you see going up and down below the spark plug holes are actually the valves, not the pistons. But that’s a good thing too. Sometimes the valves get stuck open after sitting for long periods. On the oil filter, give the cover some taps around the edge with a small hammer, or rubber mallet. The gasket is probably gluing the cover to the canister. On the air filter, spray down the wing nut with some PB Blaster, or similar, and let it soak a bit. It’ll probably come off OK. Paper filter conversions aren’t too difficult. I did mine many years ago, but mostly because it had been sitting in the weather when I got it and parts of it were rusted away. Otherwise the oil bath, when cleaned and serviced properly, is a very good air filter. It looks like it’s had a few different layers of paint, and someone has been stripping some of it off already.

Are you checking the end play with both sides installed? It can be a common mistake to adjust one side without the other side installed. You need them both contacting the center block to get a correct measurement.

Such terrible ice conditions. That must have held you up for 5 or 10... ... ... minutes at least.

If you were to pick that Saturday, or Sunday, of Labor Day weekend I would probably be able to plan a route that would take us through your area on our way to TN. But that's just me. You'll have to find a date that works for you.

Sounds good. You're about 550 miles from me. It would be quite a drive. However, I do plan on being down that way with my truck later this summer. We plan to attend the WPC Club meet in Chattanooga, TN the week after Labor Day. Might even spend a day in Nashville on our way there.

Took me 20 years at this company to get 4 weeks, which is the max. My wife gets 6 weeks where she works. She's been there just about as long as I've been with my employer. (32 years in June)

I remember 1/2” and 7/16” wrenches. Do you have Sears in Canada? You should be able to get tapped wrenches from them. Craftsman brand. May need to order them, but they should have something.

You got too much raw power now with the dual carbs. You’ll need to de-tune it... JK

You should alway clean off any paint, rust, or first before welding. Clean metal is much easier to weld, and will produce a better result. I also fear that your tubing is a bit light for your application, but maybe I’m wrong.

Or, you could have just told him it’s a company that makes electronic ignition conversions.

I don’t remember the exact spec, but 5 psi is the upper end of it. If the pressure were too high it would hold the float down, not up. The gas in the bowl holds the float up to close the needle valve. The fact that pressure holds in the line when the engine is off confirms that the needle valve is staying closed, as it should. However, when the gas evaporates out of the bowl, as it will since it’s a vented container, the float should drop with the fluid level. If it isn’t doing that than you need to investigate what’s causing it to stick. As for the backfire when letting off the gas... That usually indicates a too lean condition.

Yes, the rear tank mount on a 3/4 ton B series is a bracket that comes off the frame. I saw another set of holes where the bracket could be moved back a couple of inches. Possibly for a different size tank option?

Yup... I see he's back on here. I guess that harsh Texas winter had him holed up and hibernating.

That's not a Mopar flathead. Anyone know what it is? Looks interesting.

The king pin changed mid way through the B2 series. There is a serial number break listed in the parts book. Without double checking, I don't believe the spindles are the same between B and C series. I recall that the 3/4 ton spindle uses a slightly larger inner bearing. I remember this because the spacer sleeve is different when you get a kit from Rusty Hope.

Makes one wonder what happened to #1... Or if there's a #3?

If you can't read the name on the side of the boat, it's "Temporary Insanity II"

Love this one...

I would think that you wouldn't need all of the coolant flow to go down the distribution tube, which helps to direct coolant flow around the exhaust valves for additional cooling. With the space around the end of the tube coolant is also allowed to flow into the engine block as well. My theory is that some coolant flows to the valves and the rest goes through the rest of the engine. I think of the water distribution tube as a flow divider of sorts.

You can download the paperwork from the web site, fill it out, and mail it in with your check. You should get the build card back in a few weeks. I got one for my truck and they never cashed the check. Merle

I believe the newer trans should bolt right up, but the u-joint will be different. So you may have to swap the output flange, or have the drive shaft modified. Or, if you can get the differential drive yolk from the same ‘52ish truck then you can use the same, newer style, joints at both ends. The newer style is readily available vs. the previous Cleveland type that are not.

Is there a removable cover at the bottom of the bell housing? I don’t know the cars as well as the trucks, but I believe once you pull the trans back form the bell housing you should be able to drop the clutch out the bottom.