Merle Coggins

Nice work. And I see you are a Gold Wing rider too. I see a GL1500 hiding behind the car...

I like the exhaust pipe expander idea. It shouldn't take much to make it a tight fit again. Here's another shot showing the upper clamp.

I don't believe any body panels are compatible between a C-1 ('54) and B-2 ('50) series trucks.

First of all... You said that the rotor is pointing at 7 o'clock, but which plug wire is connected at that point? Your distributor may be 180 off and the plug wires are connected to match it. Second... There appears to be a mistake in the instructions. For Step A it should include #2 Intake and #5 Exhaust (not both), and for Step B it should include #2 Exhaust (not both) and #5 Intake. The only cylinder that you would set both valves on would be the one in firing position, eg. #1 or #6

Yes, practice your double clutching. Kencombs lists the technique for down shifting, by reving up the engine between shifts. When upshifting you need to let the engine rpm come down to match the next gear. It’ll take a little practice, but you’ll get the hang of it. Eventually you’ll get to where you can upshift without the clutch. Just manipulate the throttle to break the torque on the gears and shift to neutral, let the engine speed come down until it slips into the next gear, get back on the gas...

If you’re talking about the pinion nut 180 inch lbs would be pretty light torque. 180 ft lbs sound better.

Look up the OEM part numbers and have them cross reference the numbers. You can even use the napaonline web site to do it yourself. In their search bar at the top of the page type in the OEM part number and then select Cross Reference in the search category. See what comes up.

You don't have good parts supply stores there? Most seals can be cross referenced to modern numbers readily available from local vendors. I got mine from Napa.

That looks awesome!!! Love it.?

Art in da moon light... ?

Yup... that's what I do too. Get it close, depress the clutch pedal slightly and it'll slip right in.

Kanter also has vac advance units. https://www.kanter.com/ecatalog/00064.html Not cheap, but good stuff. Be sure to verify your distributor number with them to get the correct one.

Where are you located, woodrow?

Since you have 2 valves, that is the obvious answer. Close them both. If you are worried about them not closing completely, you could also disconnect your hoses from the heater and connect them together as Radaronwheels mentioned.

I used regular nuts, cut them a little thinner, and drilled them for cotter pins. Still working fine 10 years later.

Now, hopefully you didn't smoke the pump running it through the cam break-in period without any oil going through it.?

Even has a "Lifetime Guarantee" ...

How many times did they repeat, "It just doesn't stick!" ? If it's the same commercial, that one drives me nuts... ?

My wife has recently made the switch to cast iron pans and loves them. They are awesome once seasoned properly. I also like cast iron Dutch Ovens for camp cooking.

The axle shafts are held in place by the brake backing plates. It sounds like you already have the brakes disassembled, so now just remove the backing plates too. You'll need to rig up a puller or slide hammer to pull the axle shafts out. The bearing cup is a tight fit into the housing. I've made spacers to go between the axle housing flange and the inside of the brake drum and use the axle nut to pull the axles out. You may need a few different length spacers to get the job done. I've also heard of putting the drum and nut on loose and using the drum as a slide hammer of sorts. Once the axle shafts are out you can replace the outer seals, and you can also pull the diff now (if needed). Gasket Maker is good for the diff mount surface. I prefer the Permetex Anaerobic Gasket Makers/Flange Sealers for that application

I'm curious... Here he stated Ironwood, which is next door to Hurley, WI. On FB he mentioned Hancock. There is a fair bit of separation between the two. (110 miles)

There you go... And take those Echlin numbers Rich provided to your local Napa store to get the wires. Echlin is a Napa brand.

Lawn and Garden centers are another good source of #00 grease. Many mowers use #00 grease in their gearboxes.

Ironwood, MI is about 225 miles north of me. (3-1/2 to 4 hour drive) I don't know of any other active members that are any closer. @Mikec4193 Are you on the Facebook Pilot-House group? I believe there are some members on there that are up in northern Wisconsin. Eagle River, or Ashland area. They would be a little closer to go have a look for you, if they would be willing.

What’s your distributor number? Some of the guys here have Autolite catalogs that can get you the correct part number for that wire. With that you can do some more refined searching.