Merle Coggins

I purchased one like that on Amazon this summer to test and it wouldn't work. I even tried it on my lawn mower and it wouldn't work with that either. I contacted the seller and explained the situation. It was quite obvious that the package had been opened prior to being shipped to me. He asked if I wanted a refund or a replacement unit. As I still wanted to try one I agreed to a replacement unit. He sent me a return authorization through Amazon and I shipped it back. About a week later I had a refund, no replacement unit. I may try another one next summer, but I gave up on it for now.

I still have the 2 wires for the tach connected to the 2 terminals of my coil. The same way it was connected with a points distributor. I've even tried swapping them to reverse the polarity for the tach but I don't remember the outcome of that test.

Polsonator2, I've been struggling with this as well. I even contacted Westach and Pertronix about it. Westach has no idea why it wouldn't work. Pertronix has some "fixes" for certain electronic inaccuracy issues, but none of them seem to apply to how the Pertronix is wired up. I've tried some different resistors and such in the system to alter the signal but it only seems to make it worse. What I have discovered, on a recent trip, is that although it seems to be off at lower RPM's I believe it's fairly close at road speeds. I took note of my speeds at different tach readings and plugged them into a gear ratio calculator. I even got an accurate loaded radius measurement of my rear tires for a more accurate diameter number for the calculators. When I plug my numbers in it comes out pretty close to what I was seeing on the road. So I have come to the conclusion that it's accurate enough for me at this time.

Could also be a faulty voltage regulator that's not disconnecting the circuit breaker contacts. This will drain a battery through the generator when not running.

Can they safety check it, and sign off on it, without a drivers side door?

If it's the original flat head 6 engine it came from the factory with hardened valve seats. If work was done and the seats were replaced with other hardened ones there's nothing special you need to do. It should run fine on any pump gas available in your town. I tend to run mid-grade or premium in my truck as I feel it runs slightly better. But it still runs just fine on regular old 87 unleaded with 10% ethanol. However, I would caution you about running 10% ethanol fuel if you don't have a fuel pump and hoses that have modern rubber in them. It will kill older rubber components. If in doubt get a fuel pump rebuild kit from the good folks at Antique Auto Parts Cellar. http://www.then-now-auto.com/fuel-pumps/

That would be a ferret, Bob...

1. do voltage regulators care if it is for an alternator or generator ? YES! Generator regulators function much differently than alternator regulators. 2. do they care if positive or negative ground? NO. A generator voltage regulator can be flashed after installation to conform it to the polarity of the vehicle. 3. is there an amperage max (I saw one listed for 15A)? If so what would you suggest getting - standard car, no stereo etc? YES. Voltage regulators also have an amperage limiter and should be matched to the generator. Also, voltage regulators for generators come in a couple different types. Type A and Type B, as I recall. It is very important that you get the proper type to match your generator. It has to do with the way it regulates the field coils.

When I got all the glass for my truck I was concerned about going with the tinted glass because the corner glass would be clear. However, If I had them made in clear glass I would have had to purchase 4 full sheets of glass to get 7 pieces with the DOT etching. Each full sheet has 2 etchings in opposite corners. However, if I went with tinted they had plenty of pieces left over from non-DOT projects to make my pieces. It saved me a couple hundred bucks. I thought I would just have to live with the corners being clear while the rest had a green tint. However, once everything was installed it's really not noticeable. It's interesting that someone is making the curved glass from laminated glass panels. It's probably easier to heat and bend lam glass than to form tempered glass.

First off, welcome to the family... The first thing to check is the accelerator pump in the carburetor. Remove the air filter and look down the carb with a flashlight while moving the throttle linkage. When you open the throttle, as in stepping on the pedal, you should see a squirt of fuel from the accelerator pump jet. If not, then you'll need to open up the carb and clean out that circuit. May as well get a kit and do the whole carb at that point.

The "peg" on the bottom edge of the cap must align with the "notch" in the distributor body to ensure proper alignment of the cap for timing purposes. When all is right the clips should also line up properly.

The problem with using horn relays in a headlight circuit is that the relays are switched with a grounding switch, such as in a horn button/ring. If you go back to the post you referenced and look at the diagram you'll see what I mean. You really need 4 pin relays that can be activated with the voltage from your headlight system.

Looks similar to the nuts that retain the B-series truck switches/cables. Are there small indentations around the outside of the nut? There is s special tool that sets into those indentations to remove/install the nuts. Before I had such tool I was able to remove them by taping up the jaws of pliers and carefully grip and twist.

Looks like jute

You have that right. The wood is attached to the cross members. The bed sides are attached to the wood. And 3 of the 4 cross members get bolted down to the frame with long bolts through wood and metal.

I don't see the washers under the clips. Did you put them on the back side? I usually soak the felt washers in oil when I reassemble them to keep the pins lubed up.

I've had one of those for many years. They are quite handy at times.

????? Undercarriage inspection station?

Greg, Your current wiring bypasses the ammeter, which isn't a big deal, but I tend to use the ammeter to check that my brake light switch is working. After having a few failed switches I will often check that my switch is working before starting up my truck. With the key off I will step on the brake pedal. If the ammeter needle moves towards the negative side I know that I am sending current to the lights. No ammeter movements means it's time to dig out my spare switch...

I have determined that the next time I have to drain the coolant I will be putting one of those in. I suppose I should get one to have on hand when that day comes... Here’s one on Amazon Dorman 61106 HELP! Radiator Drain Cock https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C5CBD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_AfMNDbM2RFFF1 Well, it seems that the Dorman one has some pretty poor reviews that the wing tends to come loose from the stem after one use, making it useless. Napa also lists one... Weatherhead brand. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/WH_6783?partTypeName=Brass+Fitting+Drain+and+Drain+Cock&keywordInput=drain+cock And O’Rielly also lists a Gates brand on their web site. It doesn’t appear that the stores stock the, but they can get the ordered in.

Yup, like they said... Here’s a photo for your reference.

Lantern flies? Is that the same as Fire Flies, or Lightening Bugs?

I ran across this video recently. I know it’s too late for you on this one, but may be useful in the future.

Lookin’ good. On the sticky throttle, I like to use some dry lube spray and spray it liberally on all of the pivot points of the throttle. Pay special attention to where the cross-over link runs behind the block, where the rod runs through the bracket. When these get dry and rusty they cause a bit of drag on the linkage movement. Some also add an additional spring, but I find that if I keep things lubed up one spring is fine.

That dent in the driver's side door is custom made too...