Merle Coggins

The 1/2 ton trucks have straight sides as it is a narrower bed. 3/4 and 1 ton beds have fender wells. I had some pieces of plywood that I used to make up templates. I marked them out and trimmed them to fit before using them as templates. I even used them as temporary bed installation while I was getting the real wood ready.,

Also, the 3/4 ton trucks have a 5” bolt pattern and the 1/2 ton trucks have a 4-1/2” bolt pattern. It sounds like you got 1/2 ton drums. They’re not going to work with your 3/4 ton truck without several modifications.

Sounds like a solid plan

Paint it in a tie dye theme... ?

The '49 differential would have the early version u-joint yolk. These u-joints are harder to find, and more expensive when you find them. Also, it wouldn't match up with your driveshaft (cardan tube). It's possible that the shaft wasn't modified for the Ford axle, as the newer u-joint is a popular size that's still used to this day. If you can find a pinion shaft drive flange from a '51 or later diff you should be able to use it on your '49 diff and have the newer u-joint connection.

I have to wonder if you have a broken advance spring in your distributor and it is advancing way too early. I've seen this happen before. A quick check is to pop off the distributor cap and give the rotor a twist. You can usually twist the rotor slightly, in one direction only, and it'll spring back when you let go. If you can twist it back and forth several degrees and there's no resistance, or spring tension, you have a faulty advance mechanism under the breaker plate and it'll want to go to full advance all the time. This could attribute to the pinging/knocking you heard. Of course the noise could also be a bearing failure, which would attribute to the oil pressure loss. And, if the advance failed to full advance and caused detonation that could have lead to a rod bearing failure.

Does it still have the foot stomp starter, or has it been converted to a key start? The original foot stomp starters push the bendix out mechanically when you step down on the arm. The arm will then contact the electrical contact to make the motor spin. If that's the case I would suspect a ring gear issue. If it has been converted to a car type starter with key, or push button, start there could be a problem with the starter itself. Those typically throw the bendix out when they start spinning.

Have you tried warming up the decal with a hair dryer? Sometimes that softens them up enough to peal them off without damaging the underlying surface. Also, I find that WD40 is an excellent adhesive remover. You could try spraying some around the edges and let it soak into the decal adhesive. That may help peal it off. I don't believe WD40 would damage the glove box door, but maybe a test on a hidden surface may be required first.

That’s just a different designs between manufacturers. Either pump would be fine, as long as it has internal components that are comparable with modern gas.

If you do have 3.90 gears in your 1 ton truck you are a very lucky guy. As Rob stated, most have 4.30 gears. Back to you lack of power issue... Have you checked that you are getting full throttle when you mash the ‘go pedal’? Also, how is your air filter? Is your engine able to get enough air to breath?

I agree. Apple plays by their own rules.

Todd, It appears that the first picture, that didn't turn sideways, is more of a square format. Whereas the second one, that did turn, is a regular rectangular format. When using the standard "Photo" setting on my phone I try to always hold it horizontal with the camera lens on the upper left side. I don't have issues with the pictures flipping that way. Vertical will almost always turn them sideways. And if you do horizontal with the camera lens to the lower right the pics will turn upside down on the computer. I don't use the "Square" setting enough to have a frame of reference. But it appears that you used that setting for the first pic, which may be why it didn't turn. That's my experience, and theory anyway...

It depends on how you are holding your iPhone when you take the picture. The phone knows which way is up and will always display the picture properly, but that info doesn't always transfer to other computers.

Your seat is a bit more elaborate than mine, and probably a bit more stable as well. Also, I didn't have my fuel tank installed yet, so I have a boat tank sitting on the deck next to me. I suspect that was a good 'Initial Test' of your brakes, getting out of the driveway at your old house. ?

Do it!!! LOL!! I had a bit of a hesitation with my carb tune, which created some interesting moments on my bucket seat, but it was a blast.

I know a nice big yard in Elko, GA that would work. ?

SWMBO???

13.2 ?

I usually use my wire cutter pliers. Grab the end of the key as close to the shaft as possible with the tips of the cutter jaws. This will bite into the key enough to lift it when I pry against the shaft with the pliers. Pops them out almost every time.

I also didn’t see it as a want add. I read it as someone asking for advice on where to look for the wheels he needed.

What about adding an inline overdrive gear box, like one from Gear Vendors

The wall of tools is just a distraction as I drool over the hoist in the floor. ?

Just a quick note on the clutch job, if you're not familiar with these trucks. You don't need to remove the bell housing. In fact that would be a monumental task. Instead, remove the transmission and remove the lower inspection pan of the bell housing. You can now drop the clutch out the bottom of the bell housing. Flywheel too, if you are getting it ground for the new clutch.

A saying I picked up from a previous co-worker... "If at first you don't succeed, a bigger hammer is what you need." ?

Front sump pans will have the dipstick tube attached through the block. Rear sump pans need a dipstick tube attached to the pan, the the port in the block gets plugged.