Merle Coggins

If you can make a threaded stud in your lathe, why not make an adapter? 1-1/8" - 14 thread on the outside and 1/2" - 20 thread on the inside to accept your other tool. Then there's no risk of weakening the crank, or drilling into an oil passage.

That one looks like it would work great. Repeat for the other side. the direct switched wire from the fog light switch could connect to both sides, and this is where you'd want the diodes to keep from flashing both together.

Valve seats should already be hardened. If they're in good condition just touch them up, along with the valves, lap 'em in, and run it.

I would probably use relays. I'd have the turn signal circuit for each side activate a relay which would then power on the fog lamp. This would reduce the amp load on your turn signal switch and flasher relay. You could still use diodes to isolate the left and right side fog lamps, if you still want to use them as fog lamps.

Now they're saying gatherings of 50 or more should be canceled or postponed... ?

As I recall, I have mine set with one spoke straight up (12:00 position), which puts the other 2 at 4:00 and 8:00. This gives me the best view of the speedo, and with my elbow in the open window I can hold the wheel at the 8:00 spoke. If you have one at 6:00, with the others at 10:00 and 2:00, you fill find that the 2:00 spoke can block the view to the speedo. I would recommend sitting in the seat and try the wheel at different positions to see what works for you.

I have a California Car Cover for my truck that I used to use every day when I had to park it outside. I haven’t used it in several years as I can keep it inside the garage at my current home. I made up some cut tennis balls attached to dowel rods. I would slide them into the bed side rolls at the rear to soften the edges for the cover. After 2 or 3 years of use my cover started to rip through at the hood ornament. A couple more small rips happened at the cab to bed transition areas. I ordered a new cover and asked for some extra material so that I could reinforce the area over the hood ornament. I also had plans to create some mirror pockets, as it didn’t have any. They offered to add mirror pockets but I worried about getting them measured out correctly for them. I never did make them, and shortly after purchasing that second one I moved and didn’t need it any longer. It was a good quality cover. As I recall, it was their Noah fabric for our door use.

I went through this issue recently with Kris Bolstad's truck, Eddie. It turned out that the fuel gauge was not getting a good ground to the gauge panel and cab. This causes constant coil to NOT pull the needle to "E". The variable coil, that connects to the sender, always wins and pulls the needle to "F" regardless of the sender resistance. The 2 mounting screws for the fuel gauge had insulators under the screw head. Once we figured it out Kris removed the insulators so that the screws would ground the gauge back plate to the gauge panel and all was good from then on.

The seasonal flu bug has a higher death rate than COVID-19 has. Would you cancel your travel in fear of getting the flu? Unless you are over 70, or have a compromised immune system, or respiratory issues, you aren't in any real danger.

Yup... Should be 1/8" (or 1/4") NPT. You can just put a pipe plug in there to seal it up, if you don't need it for your wipers. Or use that port to connect up a wolf whistle... ?

If they're coming from Ohio in that rig they better be leaving today... ??

Front disc brake upgrade kits - https://www.rustyhope.com/ Another source for rubber products - https://clestersauto.com/page/mopar/ Ford parts, but some are similar, or can be used on Dodge trucks. https://www.macsautoparts.com/store/ Quality interior stuff - https://www.quietride.com/index.html Hard to find oddball hardware - http://www.restorationspecialties.com/ Good general parts supplier - rockauto.com

Todd, do you have this car at your shop now? I may need to stop up there one of these days to check it out.

Hey Nick, Once you have a driveable chassis you MUST do a quick test drive... LOL!!

Have you verified that the choke actually closes when you pull the cable? If all is good it should take a pump or 2 of the throttle pedal, pull the choke, and crank. It should fire right up. Then open the choke partially until it warms up a bit, then open fully. If you need to pump the pedal a lot, and continue after start up, that would indicate a lean condition. Adjusting the idle mixture screw may help some, or just check that the choke is working properly. My truck tends to run a little rich and I rarely need to use the choke, but it will stumble a bit if I try to drive too soon after a cold start. As for the restart after a brief stop, it could be a percolation flooding issue. Try holding the throttle open while cranking to see if it starts better.

My wife's car is a VW Tiguan.

Many relays that I use have a built in quenching diode, or resistor, to suppress the induced voltage spike when the magnetic field is switched off. If the relays you use don't have them built in it would be an easy addition. Wire it up as shown here, with 86 being the + side and 85 is -.

Yup... I was listening to him calling a spring training game just yesterday. He's winding down a bit in the last few years, and doesn't travel for road games anymore. (He's 86 years old) He just does home games, but it's always a treat listening to him call a game.

This one is... Follow my Green Bay Packers closely. Also a big baseball fan, especially the Milwaukee Brewers. But then again, I'm a truck guy, not a car guy. ??

I believe there have been threads here, including pictures of the slant 6 distributor conversions. You'd have to use the search function to find them. I have Pertronix in my truck and it's been working fine for a few years now. Mine is still 6v, but they also offer 12v versions. You will need your distributor numbers to be sure you get the right kit. You can't just order by vehicle make and year. My kit required a minor modification to the breaker plate, so I found another distributor on ebay, with the same ID numbers. It was in good condition so I modified that one and used it in my truck with the Pertronix kit. I still have the original if I ever wish to go back to points, or need a back-up. I would also recommend replacing your plug wires with new suppression core wires when upgrading to electronic ignition. Simple solid core wires can cause issues with the electronics.

Sure... after I crank my neck and read it sideways I see that Tim posted it right side up. ?

That is certainly a sign of condensation build up in the crankcase. An oil change might help, but a good hour long drive, or more, should build and maintain enough heat to vaporize all of the condensation and drive most of it out.

Anyone know the make of this truck? I don’t recognize the emblem on the radiator.

While I agree that it's a shame to do that to the car, I also find it to be an interesting attempt at a faux El Camino/El Ranch type vehicle. It's a shame that he didn't finish it and is now trying to sell it. I'd be half tempted to go pick it up and finish it, if I had the time and space for it, and my money tree was in full bloom. But since neither of these conditions exist, I'll have to let someone else finish it.

Well, according to the parts catalog the P/N's are different between 1 ton's and 1/2 ton trucks, and also different between 1, 2 series and 3, 4 series. However, will it fit??? Possibly.