tom'sB2B

I bought a 47 dodge D24 the other day. I feel like I got a pretty good deal for it. Though the catch was that the P.O thought that the block was cracked because he had water in his coolant. He sold it to me with an extra unrebuilt engine. I figured if it's that bad I'll just rebuild the engine next year. With the shape of the car and all the money he put into it, I thought it was still a great deal. Anyway, he also told me that he had the head milled recently. So I pulled the head and all the cylinders were full of fluid. I also noticed that he none of the head bolts were sealed. They also are not the original head bolts. I'm wondering if the unsealed head bolts going through the water jacket could cause that much fluid loss or is it really a cracked block. Any opinions? thank you tom

I picked up a set of 15" rims today. Wondering if anyone has a recommendation on a radial tire that they are happy with.

Ha! I just saw the commercial too. I was wondering the same thing. You beat me to it.

Any suggestions on how to do it will be appreciated. Thank you

I guess I'll have to jack up the engine and replace the rubber engine mount.

So I sprayed some wd40 were the pulley and bottom of the engine mount come together. The pulley is definitely rubbing the engine mount. Hmmm.

I greased the water pump pulley. removed the belt. checked the generator pulley. the noise is coming from the crank pulley. No change with clutch in or out. Timing pointer not rubbing. seems like pulley is rubbing bottom portion of engine mount, not sure how that could happen but I cant get in there close enough to see.

There is a terrible metal on metal scraping noise coming from my crankshaft pulley or possible behind the chain case cover. Can't find anything visibly wrong yet. Anyone have any suggestions?

while I'm thinking about it, this is my plan of attack. Let me know if there is something I miss 1. Clean head and head bolts 2. Clean both mating surfaces with brake cleaner. Clean out bolt hole threads 3. Paint the head 4. Spray gasket with copper gasket sealer.....do I spray sealer on both sides or just copper side? Use pemetex #2 on bolt threads 5. Copper side mates with block surface 6. Put head back on tighten bolts in pattern recommended by shop manual and torque to 65-70 lbs 7. Run to driving temp and retorque, recommended to check torque every few hundred miles

I got my truck moved to the new place and under my new car port. I pulled the head today and discovered the gasket blown between 5 and 6. Everything else looks good...I think. What should I be looking for in regards to bad rings or valve issues or something else?

Here are some pics when I pulled the head

I'm moving in a few weeks. So, this is something I think I will have to wait on. I can at least drive it the three miles to the new place instead of having it towed.

4mula-dlx..sorry I just read your last post. I guess I will pull the head and hope that the gasket is the problem, but cracked rings or a stuck valve could be it too. Yikes!

The starter motor doesn't really seem to fluctuate greatly to my untrained ear. Am I safe to assume that the head gasket is the main culprit to my problem?

It was never a gradual problem. I noticed right away when I was trying to make it up the hill to get home. I could usually make it up the hill easy in second gear. Now I can barely make it up the hill in first. I first thought it was a timing problem or a vacuum advance.

Well I just finished a compression and vacuum test. Here are the results 1. 125psi 2. 130psi 3. 125 psi 4. 120 psi 5. 10 psi 6. 10 psi vacuum test: fluctuates between 13-17 " Looks like I need a head gasket. What do you think? I think I will use the fuel system cleaner after I get everything fixed and timed properly. Definitely a lot of carbon on plugs and out tailpipe.

Thanks Don No I haven't I'll get busy on that.

Hi Everyone I've been trying to figure out an engine "power" problem for months. Finally throwing in the towel and reaching out for help. Last fall, while driving the truck home from a short ride, I found that I was loosing power going up hills. I live on a rather steep hill and by the time I reached it, I could barely make it up in first gear. This is what I've done so far without fixing the problem 1. Checked and change transmission fluid, checked fluid drive fluid 2. Changed plugs, condenser, cab, rotor, 3. New vacuum advance 4. Replaced in line fuel filter and checked fuel pump (seems to be working fine) 5. Checked timing with light and vacuum gauge: about 4 degrees btdc, 60-65psi Now, with any load I get a popping out of the carb. and still no power I'm guessing I still don't have my timing right. I will go back and check my points gap. What am I missing? Should I be thinking about another carburetor rebuild? Any help is appreciated Tom

I look forward to meeting you an seeing wagon next weekend. Have a safe trip. Be careful going over highway 17.

Check out the trailer for the movie "Hail Caesar!". Looks like a Dodge panel plays a role as the kidnapper's van.

Went to the " Woodies on the Warf" this weekend in Santa Cruz. I saw about 50 identical Ford woodies...Boring! I was hoping to see Charles Furman's Dodge woodie this year, but no luck.

I have a fondness for 1973....it was the year I was born

Another great BBQ! Thank you so much Tim for your hospitality. It was great to see so many forum members and put faces to names. Made it home in one piece. The wind was killer though. Felt like I was driving a barn door. Got passed by a few semis going over the altimont pass. Cold beer never tasted so good when I got home. thanks again Tom

Heading out tomorrow morning in the tin can. Fingers are crossed. Hope to see yall tomorrow.

I saw this car at the Saturday meet. They replicated the 1908 great race around the world. It has a slant six and a ford rear. They had people along the way sign the car and then they clear coated it. Cool story. Here is their website: www.worldautotour.com