tom'sB2B

Shouldn't the meter read negative when I'm drawing power and positive when I'm generating power? It seems what I'm seeing on my truck is the opposite.

I get a reading of +25-30 amps when I turn the lights on with the engine off

I've been searching the forum and my service manual to educate myself on the electrical system of my truck. I read on one posting that by removing one terminal from your battery while the truck is running it will indicate if your generator is working or not ( if you pull the terminal off and the truck dies, the generator is not working). My service manual says to use a test light between the armature terminal and the ground to test your generator. 1. I removed one the battery cables and the truck died. 2. I tested the generator with a test light and the light lit up. What am I missing? The amp meter in the truck shows about -25 amps..I'm assuming that the battery is being charged. After about 25 min of driving the amp meter basically goes to zero. I never see a positive reading. As a side note. Lately the truck has been totally shutting off when I'm driving. It doesn't happen all the time, but when it does I have to pull over when I can and frantically jiggle the battery cable and turn the key on and off. When I do that I eventually get power again and I can drive off. Its not a fun experience (especially on a curvy country road with my wife in the truck ). I haven't been able to duplicate it in the driveway. I've been jiggling wires and checking connections to no success. Any guidance would be appreciated.

That sucks Paul. I'm so sorry. Please let me know if there is anything I can do to help. You are welcome to any parts I have and I'm definitely willing to drive to Reedley and give you a hand on the weekend.

I used an axle from an '89 jeep Cherokee with a 3.55 ratio . I have a three speed transmission and I can now cruise at a easy 55-60 and second is still low enough to make it up a steep hill. A search of the forum will give you everything you need to know...gear ratio, year and model of axle, perches, pinion angle, u joints, bolt pattern, ect.

I will be looking for '46-'48 Plymouth P15 four door sedan or '46-'48 Dodge D24 four door sedan. It seems like I will be facing four options: P15 218 standard 230 standard D24 218 fluid drive 230 fluid drive If I set my engine up as a 230 with a eight bolt flange pattern. The two issues I might face is: A. Flywheel extending too far out where I may have to shave the bell housing so that the starter lines up correctly B. The different input shaft bushing C. Both A and B What else am I missing?

What if I set it up as a 230 with a 8 bolt crank to flywheel for fluid drive D24, then I buy a P15. Will the standard four hole flywheel and bell housing match up?

I want to buy a P15 or D24 four door sedan sometime in the future. I bought a 218 engine that I was going to rebuild and swap into my 1950 Dodge truck. But, I was thinking the engine in the truck runs fine, why not build the engine for my future car. I was thinking of building it into a 230 with duel carbs. I was wondering how I should build the engine to accommodate any future car purchase. The one problem I thought of is a fluid drive set-up Can you all give me some suggestions of what I should do.

I used a product called USEAL. Its a foil backed asphalt based product for roofing. $16 a role at home depot. (6"x25'). It took about 5 or 6 roles to do the hole cab. I think it has made a difference and I will eventually cover it all with more insulation and luan and some new door seals. The only problem is once you put the stuff on, its hard to get it off.

What are the differences between 3speed bell house and clutch assemblies between half ton truck and car? Or are they the same? It will be attached to a 218. Are the trans mounting holes the same?

I would be up for one. CA requires a front plate so it would be nice to be in compliance. I guess the original look would be cool, but I would be happy with either.

I love those power wagons. I climbed Mt. Orizaba in Mexico in 2004. I got a ride in a power wagon to base camp. Awesome experience. Here is a link to some info http://www.dodgepowerwagon.com/sprouse/m601/orizaba.htm

I just swapped out my rear end last fall. I have a 3:55 now, three speed fluid drive trans. I can go 55 comfortably, at 60 the engine is racing.

Its 52 3/4 inches from the brake plates. I have a 1 1/4 inch clearance from bed side to tire. I'm not sure what the distance is from hub to hub. I'll have to pull the wheels off.

It measures 52 3/4 inches from flange to flange

Pick-n-pull doesn't allow you to bring your own jack or jack stands. All the cars and trucks are like that. Luckly I didn't have to much time under the jeep.

It was mostly the extensive play in my steering wheel that was making me nervous. I thought it drove pretty good at 60-65. If it ever stops raining I will do a little longer cruise. Paul, with all the great work you've done on your truck, I'm sure it will drive like a dream. When will you be ready for 65?

I've driven the truck around town recently, weather permitting. It drives well with no vibration (nothing unusual anyway). I took it out on the freeway and got it up to 70, though I don't think I will do that again anytime soon:) I find that my first gear is still a bit of a granny. I usually still start out in 2nd (I have a fluid drive). And no real problems on the hills. Over all I'm happy with the swap. I still need to tighten up the steering and some disc brakes in the front to be a reliable freeway driver.

I know there have been quite a few posts on this subject. Sorry if this seems repetitive. Hopefully this will help others who are thinking about doing a swap. I recently finished a rear axle swap for my 1950 1/2 ton. I used a axle out of a 1989 jeep cherokee 4.0 liter. A Dana 35 with a 3:55 ratio. I got it from a local pick-n-pull. After searching and finding the best axle in the yard, it only took me about 45 min. to pull the axle. Once I got the axle home I ground of all the old perches with an angle grinder and ground the area smooth. I used the 3" spring perches from Northern Tool. After measuring where the perches should go in relation to the old axle, I used to small levels and a angle measuring device to determine the correct pinion angle ( 5 degrees up). I took the axle and all my levels and stands to a local hotrod shop where the welded it up for me..$30. I bought new wheel cylinders and brake pads and lug nuts. Everything hooked-up with out any problems. The pinion u-bolts from the jeep worked fine. I'm using the jeep e-brake cables and I connected them to the original hand brake using a length of steel cable. I used a reducer to hook up the different sized brake lines. That's it!

That's a good looking truck. Does anyone recognize the hubcaps? They look different with the black lettering around the outside.

When I bought my truck it was infested with rats. I caught three living in my seat. I also had to pull a nest from the rear crossmember and they chewed through my brake wires. I finally filled the rear crossmember with expanding foam to keep them out. I'm still finding acorns and nesting material in nooks and cracks

I wish I could make it up to the parade today. It was a fantastic season. I watched or listened to every game. They are really a fun and exicting team to follow. Great fielding, Great pitching and good old school small ball. Can't wait till next season

Thanks for the help. I found that when I tighten the yolk on the pinion, it is enough to hold the speedo gear tight too. Whether or not its the correct way, it works and its good enough for me. I had also needed to know where that new speedo gear rubber seal goes....now I know..thanks for that thread desotodav

I am in the process of rebuilding my three speed transmission. The speedo drive gear just slides on the back of the main pinion? Is it supposed to be tight on the pinion? Mine just spins there on the drive pinion. What am I missing? What makes it engage the drive pinion to spin the speedometer? I'm so confused.

Paul That bumper looks great on your truck. I'm glad it worked for you