tom'sB2B

I thought it would be fun to post the photos I collect of the local Saturday morning car gatherings. There is always something different and interesting every time I go. Here are a couple to start with:

I have the same set-up and the same problem. I don't seem to get enough leverage with the pull handle to engage the drum brakes. I've wondered if the older floor handle would work. I'm still using the original brake and a block. Hopefully you find a solution.

I got it running. The timing was definitely off. After a couple of gunshot backfires and shocking myself a couple of times, I figured it out. I pulled plug #1 and found TDC on the compression stroke. Then, with the plug out, I rotated the cap until I got spark with the number one spark plug. I had to adjust the backing plate on the distributer to where I could adjust it. I must have been off a couple of teeth when putting my oil pump back in. It still idles a little rough, so I will make some adjustments this weekend using a timing light and a vacuum gauge. Thank you all for your help....Time for a beer!

Thanks for reposting that Don. I will try again tomorrow and hopefully sort it out.

O.k. I think I'm on the right track. I will use the old finger method on the number one hole ( ) tomorrow and hopefully will get my timing sorted out. I've been reading several threads on the topic of timing and compression and it doesn't take long for my eyes to glaze over. I've learned a lot though.

So, I guess my next step is to pull the plug on #6 and watch when the exhaust port is open and try to retime everything. I guess I didn't understand the term "180 degrees off". I may have been chasing my tail this whole time. At least its easy to work on with the hood and fenders off.

Ok. So how do I find out whether I'm on an exhaust stroke or a compression stroke? I will check my float again too and go buy a timing light

I checked and adjusted points. I checked the timing several times using a small dowel rod down the #6 port until I found TDC ( which also lined up with timing marks). While doing so I watched where my distributor was(which is about 7 o'clock) and set my plug wires accordingly. I will recheck timing again. Maybe I'm going down the wrong path with my carb thoughts, but I'm hung up on the pool of gas sitting at the bottom of the intake. It just seems like I'm drowning it. Is this normal?

My summer project has been to pull the front sheet metal off my truck and clean the engine and replace the gaskets, paint, etc. I'm almost done putting things back together and I have learned quite a bit through the whole process. I'm now at the point to where I'm trying to get it started and I'm running into one issue after another and I think so far I've been able to solve them. But now I've run into a problem with my carburetor and I'vefinally relented into asking for some help. I think my carb is putting out too much gas. When I try to start it backfires up through the carb. When I take the carb off, there seems like an excessive amount of gas sitting in the bottom of the intake. Now let me tell you what I've done. 1. Cleaned and Rebuilt carb..including new accelerator pump plunger check valve balls and gaskets 2. New needle, put in the right way 3. Measured float height... 5/64 inch from to of the bowl 4. Several adjustments of idle mixture screw starting at 1 1/2 turn out 5. Original fuel pump which worked fine before I started this project. I also checked the timing several times using TDC on cylinder 6. My distributor is indexed at 7 o'clock. I have my plug wires lined up in the correct sequence 153624 Its probably an easy fix, but I can't see what I'm missing

I think I will try starting it and see if I can get "normal" pressure. If not , then quickly shutting it down

No. The gauge is good. Was working great before I started working on it. No leaks. Running plain old 10W-30. I'm just turning the engine over with-out the plugs to prime the pump.

No. Its far from fresh. The engine was rebuilt in 1968. It still has good compression though.The manual says the oil pressure should be 35-40lbs above 30mph. I guess I will put the plugs back in and kick it over and cross my fingers.

I replaced the gasket where the pump bolts to the engine. I'm not sure what is meant by indexing, but I rotated the engine to TDC and replaced the pump in a position to where the distributor rotor will be at "7 o'clock". Where would I pack the grease? Around the drive gear? I will check the relief valve and see if its gunked up. I was wondering if I wasn't creating enough pressure by just turning the engine over slowly with the starter.

Hello I've been working on cleaning up my engine and replacing gaskets. I pulled the oil pump. Cleaned it up and replaced the gasket. I put it back in, pulled the plugs and used the starter to turn the engine over to prime the oil pump. While doing so, I watched the pressure gauge for the pressure to rise. It only got up to about 10lbs of pressure. Is that enough pressure to show the pump is primed? Or should it be showing a lot more pressure? I want do this right before I try to start the engine. I also replaced all the oil lines including the oil pressure line. thanks Tom

I'll work on posting some pictures of it.

Excellent. Thanks Merl!

I starting an clean-up of my engine. My truck came with a heater that was no longer hooked up when I bought it. The PO disconnected the heater and there is now a hose that runs from the heater outlet on the top of the block to the water pump. I'm not interested in having a heater. Can I plug both the inlet and outlets and get rid of the hose or is this setup necessary in cooling the engine?

I made mine out of a metal trash can. You know the kind you find next to a grade school teacher's desk. Fit like a glove!

Do you think you will make it up to Woodies on the Warf in Santa Cruz this year? I would love to see the woodie again (you too of course )

I have a fluid drive truck. 3 speed on the tree. 1950. I'm happy with it.

It was me. Its my fault. I had the gauges refinished last year and wired it up wrong. I just haven't noticed it until I started having this problem. I'm the big dummy.

So let me see if understand this correctly. If I get in my truck and turn the lights on without starting it, the meter should read negative because the lights are drawing from the battery. I then start the truck I should see a positive reading because the generator is charging the battery. Once the battery is charged the reading should drop down, but still read a slightly positive charge because the generator is creating spark for the engine. If I turn the lights or radio on the meter should the read more positive. By the way, I do think I have it wired backwards.

I will get to work on all of the above suggestions. Some of the wiring on this truck is embarrassing to look at. I shouldnt be surprised if had more problems. I will get to work. I would still like to know what side the positive terminal is so I can make sure whether it is wired correctly.

I repolarize with ignition switch off...amp gauge jumps to +30 amps. I turn on key, amp gauge moves back to zero. I start engine and amp gauge reads roughly -10 when I accelerate engine. The gauge could be wired wrong (with my mechanical skills I wouldn't be surprised). I'm having a hard time figuring out which terminal on the back of the gauge is positive and negative. I also found that the connections at my ignition switch were a little loose..I'm hoping that might be the answer to my random power loss.

yes. positive to engine ground, negative to starter connections.