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Dodgeb4ya

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Everything posted by Dodgeb4ya

  1. Came out from under the shift lever arm. It's a anti-rattle spring clip.
  2. You have done wonders getting that once dead and ugly.... left to die truck back in operating condition Brent! Kudos to you bud!?
  3. The Hydraulically Operated two range Prestomatic transmission has a low range...(push shifter upwards) and has a Driving range...pull lever down. The are two gears in each range..1st &2nd gears in low and 3rd and 4th gears in driving range. Hydraulically shifted. Doubt you would do well parting it out on ebay unless the chrome parts are in excellent condition....drive train parts, body sheet metal not worth much at all and $$$ to ship. Post pics of the car here....let's see it.
  4. Lubricate all your cowl vent linkage pivots. That will make the linkage operate much more smoothly and with less effort too.?
  5. I also had a wolf whistle. Went on the intake. Sure affected the engine smoothness. The Cow horn I also had was a lot more fun. Especially with a herd of cattle coming at ya!
  6. The flared raised lip of the gasket faces up. It helps assure a tight seal against the cowl vent lid just inward of the rolled bead on said cowl vent lid.
  7. I bought one a long time ago... never installed it yet.?
  8. I want that good H-Duty crimping machine....something I don't have and want! ?
  9. New reproduction swan neck mirrors for 1946-48 Chrysler /DeSoto can be had for about $1700.00 last I heard. Cowl mirror mount mirror delete stainless all have different shapes to match door belt moldings. Any 1946-48 Dodge, DeSoto or Chrysler stainless will be the correct length. Won't quite match the door belt molding. You also need the correct retainer clip assembly. Or glue them on with a giant tube of shoe goo!?
  10. It's not a spacer that goes there... It's actually another 3/16" thick mounting bracket for the shifter linkage bell crank /pivot. You probably still have this piece/assembly all still together? In a box, bag etc?
  11. It's not a common option to find shocks on the medium duty trucks. 1-1/2 to 2-1/2 ton trucks. I have seen front shocks only installed..never rear shocks except on busses which were required both front and rear.
  12. Put a new plug in it.
  13. Don't use the typical low carbon key stock. IE flywheel shear keys... pto keys etc. Key stock comes in different grades of steel. The factory keys are a very high strength steel. Just some more info....
  14. It probably will be fine as is. I know the factory MoPar OE parts are right on. Of course now very hard to find. The modern offshore replacement parts...precision/accurately made...naw... I'd myself would want to see how far off the cam is if it is at all. JMO....
  15. They should line up...almost exactly when new. It looks a bit too far off to me. https://www.iskycams.com/cam-degreeing.html
  16. Have you checked/adjusted the clutch free play to 1" as explained in the shop manual? No free play can cause clutch slippage.
  17. Most only sure way is to measure stroke through the hex plug over cyl #6 Chrysler 251's started using the new style aluminum cannister in 1949 on up thru 1951. Then in 52 the same cannister was used on the 265's thru 1954. Now days so many flathead engines have been swapped modified whatever... Measure the stroke... the only way to be sure what displacement flathead engine you have.
  18. Any 1946-54 230ci. Flathead Dodge engine will work. Any 1954 up 230ci. Plymouth engine. The engines must have the eight bolt crankshaft and must be 23" head length. Manifolds, accessories and other pieces might have to be swapped from the original engine. Industrial and marine....move on.
  19. I believe it's improper linkage assembly or parts.
  20. 323 ci. Straight 8 bore is 3-1/4" . Stroke is 4-7/8"
  21. It is normal for the fingers to pull in maybe 3/8"...on a good clutch disc that's not worn thin when tightening the clutch pressure plate. Your release bearing after adjusting the length of the clutch fork rod should almost be right up against the three clutch cover fingers. I think your disc and cover are probably OK. .......Have you messed with the over center spring turn buckle? ......Adjusted the clutch fork rod (lengthened it to move the bearing up to the fingers) leaving 1/2" to 1" free play at the top of beginning pedal movement?
  22. Your disc thickness looks normal to me. A disc too thick will cause the clutch cover levers to pull inward too far. The correct new clutch disc lining... Takes two as you mentioned .125". New MoPar FD disc's are .325" thick.
  23. Yes ...the 265's have the "SPITFIRE" head too. On the Chrysler straight "8's .... "SPITFIRE" is embossed into the 25" long metal spark plug wire loom on top of the cylinder head.
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