Dodgeb4ya

Those rear main seals should not be trimmed at all-they crush down when the main cap is tightened.

Pry the engine over a bit-should come right out.

My 1952 Dodge was -I say was, a Fluid drive. Took it out in 1972 to run a PTO winch. I have seen very few of these over the years searching through junk yards and Estate sales/ads ect . I'd guess less than 10% were FD trucks? Maybe even 5%. Route vans also had the FD option. Now Truck-O-Matic's were even more rare. Had one once. Have seen 1 other since-ever super rare!!!

The red countershaft is just free spinning though-no transmission of power-should not have been red. Good job Don! Jesus I hate it when I lose!

Thats a old heavy truck trans diagram- The old straight gear trucks use that same type of large "clutch gear" teeth. Ya gotta double clutch with those big clutch gear teeth. They did not have syncro's in most of the old truck tansmissions. I give up-don't see the problem! Bob

You got yourself a real "Fluid Drive" coupling in that truck! The FD coupling in the trucks is a 1946-50 Chrysler straight "8" FD coupling for heavier service too! Bob

Tony, I'd be lookin for a 1/2" socket!

Here in the states you can get most sizes at any bigger auto parts store. I get them all the time for my jobs. They are used on thosands of cars still today including most imports.

If only one axle won't turn-Possibly the Inner seal is not in deep enough in the housing or a bit different style (thicker) and is binding on axle shaft shoulder next to the axle bearing? All of this assuming the diff is already bolted in to the housing and backing plates shimmed properly and evenly side to side with .003 to .008" axle side clearance and bolted up and installed. Otherwise spider/side gear problem most likely-rare. Bob

This same type of tach is mounted on the dash. In a 2-1/2 tonner. Has a factory cupped mount plate attached to back of the tach with a bolt. 2 screws through the base into dash. Transmitter is a Sun. 1 D cell battery powers it.

You need to be sure the kick down switch on the side of the carb works for forced downshifts-needed when going up steep hills. The kick down switch on the carb needs to be checked a couple different ways. There is a plunger on one side and a single wire conection on the other. 1st you need to mash the gas peddle completely to the floor and check that the throttle shaft side lever with the bent tang is fully depressing the brass plunger on the carburator-make sure the throttle linkage causes the brass plunger to be fully depressed with gas pedal action-this switch grounds out and electrically causes a dump of oil pressure in the trans and also shorts out the ignition for a split second to relieve gear torque causing a downshift into a low range-that is if the switch actually works, the contacts get dirty or the switch vacuum spring/assembly is wrong ect.. I always check the carb switches with a OHM meter- one lead to the electrical terminal the other to ground press brass plunger and ohm meter should show continuity. I posted some pics of this carb and switch under "mechanical" in the Photo gallery. That KD kit wiring just hooks up to this switch terminal and makes a downshift much nicer instead of having to floor the gas each time to downshift. With that after market kit you have 2 ways to control forced downshifts! Bob

These timing chain sprockets are for 1939-50 Chrysler flathead "8". They look to be coated in cosmoline.

Now thats a nice Flat-nose workin truck. I like it! A lot Bob

Here are the 2 sizes the nut could be. Bob

I'm lucky as I do all my own tire/wheel work. I don't know the tire laws and I'm sure there are plenty for your's and my safety!!. I suppose you will have to find a truck with all the correct matching rims . I think as I recal the RH5 Ford style rims are the throw away "split" rims-that have the 4" wide band in the center of the rim to connect both halves together. They are dangerous and should not be re-used. Bob

Your Dodge should have split side ring wheels. The 1-1/2" side ring has a split in it for removal. It is installed/removed from the side of the rim. This style is not nearly as dangerous as the "split rim" Ford rims of the 50's/60's. These old Ford rims have the ring 4" wide exactly in the middle of the 2 piece rim. Are your rims rusty bent ect or why do you want to replace them? If they are clean and nice use them-get someone who knows how to work with these split side ring rims. These rims are strong and safe as long as they are not rusty. They need to be inflated in a cage or under a loader bucket ect. Rims are out there though. They are found on all different types of trucks. Bob

Thats right Merle, -the division bar is stamped for the mirror base stud and backside thin nut. One of the pictures shows a NOS standard non mirror division bar next to the bar with the mirror. Bob

The body has dropped down over the years to make it hard to get the bell housing raised enough to be able to remove the 1 piece welded large washer and tube assembly thats inserted into the motor mount. I use a Hydraulic jack( porta power) to push the trans and bell housing up that little extra bit so I can remove/install the new mounts in these situations. Bob

Some more pics of OE inside truck mirrors . They do use P15/maybe dodge and Desoto mirrors too. Notice the stamped depression where the mirror stem goes through. Center line of mirror shaft from top of moulding is 6-1/2" down. Bob

Here is a not so good pic of a factory inside rear view mirror on one of my trucks. I will get some better pics later in the week. The mirror is mounted on a 1 piece special stamped division bar to accept the mirror stem and thin backside nut. I have never seen it listed as an Std or optional mirror in the Dodge truck data books or any truck special equipment catalogs either. They are quite rare to say the least. I think I saw 1 or 2 inside mirrors in Don Bunn's reprint book that I just got last week. Bob

The solenoid as it is pushed on has no spring pressure against it. The adapter plate with the pusrod pawl spring does need to be pushed in against spring pressure. I just pulled the solenoid off and did not try to remove the plate and spring /pawl-it did not want to come out of the trans, it just popped up 1/2" as shown in the picture. My pic of the info is out of my 10" thick "All Data" master repair book. The 46-54 Plym shop manual will not give you any info on this R7 transmission. Just the later R10. Bob

Here are a couple pictures of the R7 trans. This OD is completely different than the newer R10 as used in the 1952-56 MoPar cars. Also the instruction for solenoid removal.The spring is under the adapter plate. Gaskets control solenoid plunger adjustment-keep your gaskets the same thickness as the old ones. Bob

Mid to late 30's Dodge truck?

My belief is Woodies should get a sponge bath, that way the wood stays dry! I sponge bath my woodies so no water gets inside the doors and gets the unvarnised wood/drain holes wet, causingdark stains and varnish pop off. The trunk lift tubes with the strong springs inside of them are original T&C factory equipment. All 1946-50 Town and Country cars use them for the trunk lids. The brackets do look a little hokey though and I just worked on a 47 sedan and never paid much attention to the trunk brackets. Wish I would have now. Bob