knuckleharley

Thank you for the URL. Now I don't have to worry about using what remains of my mind to remember the name so I can bookmark it again.

If you are looking for a Edgy head,they are now sold by the Dodge Boys. AFAIK,Ed Edgy is no longer in business. My old computer took a dump and I am on a new computer and haven't finished updating my browser yet,so I can't give you their URL. They are the guys with the (almost) 200 MPH Fast Four Dodge roadster at Bonneville.

It all depends on the seller/supplier,and sometimes on the made and model of the vehicle. When I went to put new brakes on my 1939 International Harvester pickup,the cheapest I found wheel cylinders from IHC parts suippliers were 50 bucks each. And these were NOS wheel cylinders that would almost certainly need rebuild kits due to rotten rubber and rust. So I did a web search using the manufacturer (Wagner,IIRC) parts number and discovered this same wheel cylinder was used in 53-54 Chevrolets,and were very common. Ended up buying current production wheel cylinders new in the box for a little less than $5 each. Your best bet is to pop off one front and one rear brake drum,write down the wheel cylinder parts numbers for each,and then to a web search using those parts numbers. It is also helpful to include the manufacturer's name in the search.

Greg,was that a typo and you meant 205/75R/15 instead of 17?

First you need to tell people what wheels and hubcaps you have on your car. Photos would be a big help,since most of these cars have had the wheels and tires changed over the last 4 or 5 decades.

Plasma cutters are nice,but you can't always use them due to flammable fluids or material being close to where you have to cut. I prefer to err on the side of caution and use a jig saw or sawzall in places like that.

Maybe,but I have heard a lot of good reports about the WD-40 Rust Inhibitor,too. Before discovering Kroil,my standard "unstick stuff" product was a home mixture of regular WD-40 and ATF. Anything that wouldn't free up and turn using a breaker bar after sitting for an hour got the valves closed and 150 psi or so of air pressure to push the oil past the rings. I would just sit in a chair next to the car and drink coffee and read a book until I could hear the air making "glub,glub,glub" noises out of the base. I would then move on to the next cylinder and repeat until they all had ATF/WD-40 forced past the rings,and would then turn the engine over using a breaker bar on the balancer nut. The DeSoto hemi was/is a special challenge. I bought it off a prison guard in Georgia that had been called up in the reserves and sent to the Muddle East. The kids in his neighborhood knew he was a prison guard,and they knew he was gone,so one or more of them pulled the plugs and packed the cylinders full of that red Georgia clay. I discovered this when I went to squirt oil in the cylinders before trying to turn it over. No way was I going to try to spin the engine without pulling the heads and cleaning everything up first. Standard bore with no ridges,too! I am confident that once I put the heads back on and put pressure on each cylinder that it will free up. There were a few cylinders already allowing the Kroil to seep past the rings using nothing but the force of gravity.

I would only add a scroll/jig saw to that list for cutting curves and corners.

Yes. Sounds like your carb may be sensitive to pressure,so it makes sense to be able to dial the fuel pressure to setting that works for you.

If you do a search by parts number on the interweb,you can almost always buy brand new wheel cylinders for about the same price you would pay for a kit. Sometimes cheaper. New is ALWAYS better than rebuilt when it comes to wheel cylinders. Since it is so hard to find a old MC these days that hasn't already been honed a time or two,MY vote is to spend the bucks and buy a new one. Brake,tires,and suspension aren't areas where you want to cut corners. Buying a kit and doing it yourself is substantially cheaper than buying a new MC,though.

I can't recommend any because I haven't personally bought and installed a dual-outlet master cylinder on a old Mopar. YET. I suspect that they are easy to find from outfits like Scare Bird and other Mopar suppliers,though. Shop around and see who offers the right combination of kit and price that suits you.

Maybe. I quit using Champion spark plugs back in the early 70's over almost new plugs dying. Still won't buy one,or even put one in my lawn mower if you give it to me. For the MOST part spark plugs either fire or they don't,but I did have a 1 cylinder lawnmower engine drive me nuts once trying to get it to start. I was just about ready to take it to a lawnmower pro to get it fixed because it was getting fresh gas,and I could pull the plug and ground it and it would fire. I decided to try a new plug first to see what happened. It fired right up. Damn thing would spit fire all day out in the open,but the instant you put it under compression it would die. Once again,a Champion spark plug. I got it for free because the guy that gave it to me couldn't get it to start. I have no idea how that could be related to the engine starting after sitting out in the sun with the hood up,though. Your problem HAS to be related to a fuel supply problem. When it is sitting and cold have you tried taking the breather off the carb and manually moving the carb linkage to see if it is spitting fuel down the intake port? If not,your float needs to be adjusted by either bending the tin arm,or replacing it if it leaks. If it pumps fuel without the engine spinning over after sitting all night,the float is ok,and your problem is related to the choke. PLEASE note that this test MUST be done ONLY after the car sits overnight. You could have a very small leak in the float that would cause it to dump all the bowl gas down the intake overnight,but fill the float so slowly that once started in the morning the car will continue to start fine all day.

The good news is they are available. That's where the good news ends.

Near as I can tell,owning a car isn't an actual requirement to read or post here,so why leave?

Holy crap! Finding a late 40's Chrysler that complete and with chrome that nice was a major score!

Sadly,it still sits on my shop floor,stuck and temporarily abandoned . Other stuff came up that had to be done NOW,and it just got abandoned until I have time to fool with it. Next time I mess with it,I will have the heads back on it,and will be using 150 or so lbs of air pressure to "push" the Kroil past the rings.

Thank you!

So,I have a Hy Drive trans in my 55 Plymouth parts car? Does this mean I would have trouble bolting a standard trans bellhousing to the block,and using a manual floor shift transmission if I use this engine in my 42 Dodge?

The only thing that really surprises me anymore is not having to use my GPS to get back home from the grocery store.

SO.....since no one mentions the 25 inch engines,is it safe to assume this is not a problem with any of them? The "Hy-Drive" sounds like a Plymouth name to me for some reason. What cars were they in,and what years? If you adapt a fluid drive/hy drive trans to a 25 inch block,will there be any problems? I have a 51 DeSoto engine with some sort of auto-trans that I bought,so I am interested in hearing about this.

I wonder how that special rust inhibitor plays with primer and other paint,and what steps you have to go through to remove it completely in order to be able to paint the metal. There ain't no such thing as a free ride.

Maybe consider giving Summit Racing a call before calling Goodyear. They never jerk anybody around,and offer free shipping on any purchase over 100 bucks. I don't like the way nylon tires ride or handle,so I always buy radials. Going to pretty much be stuck with nylon tires when I re-tire my 31 Plymouth,though. Tempted to put 15 inch rims and radials on it,and save the spoked wheels and nylon tires for the next owner so he can put them back on if he wants.

15 X 5? You must be running some really skinny tires. If/when I update,I will be looking for 6 or 6.5 rims to better fit 215 or 225 tires.

True,but by the time you find and buy them,pay someone to take off the old cars,sandblast them,and then paint them, it might have been cheaper to have gone ahead and bought new powder-coated ones you KNOW aren't bent to start with. There is no question it would be quicker.