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knuckleharley

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Everything posted by knuckleharley

  1. They are inlines,and produce a decent amount of power and torque for everyday driving,and much,much more if you "step on them" a little. Which makes me a fan. They are ideal engines to swap into stuff like 20's cars. I once had a 27 Ford coupe with OHC Pinto/Mustang 4 and aod trans in it. Would probably still have it if it hadn't been for multiple hospital and doctors bills.
  2. I saw photos. The owner must have sent me a dozen or more. The car just looks better in the photos than it does in "real life". I agree about the styling of the early 30's. Every American car I have seen that was built between 1932 and 1936 was beautiful. The 32 Plymouth was,IMHO,one of the most beautiful of the bunch. Here is a photo of my 31 Plymouth taken the day I got it home. It ain't a 32,but it ain't bad,either! The 31 Plymouths were so mechanically advanced over the Fords and Chevrolets that they might as well have been another species. BTW,not one single damn thing will ever be modified on this car as long as I own it.
  3. NICE!
  4. Unfortunately,it is not even half as good as it looks in these photos. The fenders and grille are ok,but the whole bottom of the body is gone,and so is the channel in the rumble opening for the rubber. Sadly,I paid a price for it that would have been reasonable if it were as solid as it looks and as it was described. I no longer buy cars unless I have personally looked them over. This one and the 42 Dodge coupe broke me of that bad habit.
  5. Sometimes it's easy to overlook the basic things. Especially those of us who are not mechanics and do these things on a regular basis.
  6. I suspect if a temp gauge is off that far it's beyond "Adjusting" unless the "Adjustment" to to throw the SOB in the trash and put a mechanical gauge on the engine.
  7. What makes you think the dash temp gauge is anything more than a loose estimation? Yeah,some are pretty accurate,but others are off by a bunch. I was fooling with another project I just bought and was about to panic because once I got it running,the needle on the temp gauge pegged almost half way between the 3rd "peg" on the gauge and the last one. Put a mechanical temp gauge in the block,and it was only running 175 degrees at idle. Judging from the gauge,I was guessing it was on the verge of boiling over. Screwing a mechanical gauge into the block where the sending unit goes will tell you what it's really doing. Don't know what to tell you about doing adjustments to the in-dash temp unit.
  8. Ok,so what would be wrong with reaming the hole the bushing fits into?
  9. Not posting this to your thread because it is off-topic,but could you ask the yard owner if he has a 51 Ford in there that has the 6 cylinder engine and Fordomatic transmission? I need the bellhousing for a 51 coupe I am restoring,and bellhousings for 6 cylinders are hard to find,even though it was an option. Seems like people so cheap they went for base models were too cheap to pay extra for an automatic transmission.

    I will even take a Flathead V-8 FOM transmission if I have to. If I could get one of them it would be fairly easy to make an adapter.

    Thanks,

    Arthur

    1. Show previous comments  3 more
    2. knuckleharley

      knuckleharley

      I have always been a big fan of the 49-51 Chev's,but I like the fastback 4drs best of all. It's falling off a log simple to put a 60's-70's 250 or 292 inline 6 in them,too. With the 292 you have the power of a V-8. Best of all,there is not much demand for them,and it's possible to pick up a nice original one fairly cheap.

      I really like the 53-54's,too. Don't much care for Chevy's after that,though.

    3. Fastback50

      Fastback50

      Yeah this is my first venture into vintage GM....am originally a Ford guy but a good price on something vintage (not American Pickers or Gas Monkey garage prices) has eluded me so far.

    4. knuckleharley

      knuckleharley

      49-54 Chevies are pretty much unloved compared to Fords. Maybe even a little more unloved than 49-54 Mopars. This is especially true of the 49-51 Chevy 4dr fastbacks,which *I* think have the smoothest flowing lines going.  They were beautiful when they rolled off the showroom floor. Their only real weak point was the old splash-oiling underpowered 216 inline six. The good news is 60's to 80's inline 6's are also dirt cheap with the exception of the Chevy 292's and the GMC 302's.  Racers LOVE them because they put out stupid torque,and are pretty much bulletproof. The good news is they were used in a BUNCH of industrial equipment,and if you go nosing around you can buy them dirt cheap at surplus sales,farm yards,etc,etc,etc. My neighbors even have a John Deere combine that came from the factory with a Chevy 292 6 in it.

      Putting one with a turbo 350 or turbo 400 behind it in a 49-54 Chevy is only a little tougher than replacing the 216 with another 216,but once you do you will have NO trouble keeping up with traffic,running a AC,etc,etc,etc.

      The only downside to the inline GM's is that even though hi-po parts are plentiful and easy to find,they are usually a little pricey.

      I worked part time at a gas station in Fayetteville right before I got out of the army,and the owner had a Anglia 2dr with a 292 in it with a head made from cutting two 327 FI Chevy heads and welding them back together to create a hi-po inline 6 Chevy head,FI,a radical cam,etc,etc,etc. Purely drag race. He didn't even have ramps for his trailer. He would pull up to it,hit the hammer,and the damn thing would just hop up on the trailer. I was in awe of how he did this.

      He was running a 4 speed tranny with a Pontiac rear end and gears in the high 4's (4:88?),but never got a full run in while I worked for him because he had drag slicks on the back of the car and a drag suspension that allowed him to really hook up,and he kept twisting the Pontiac axles.

      I love the inlines for the sounds they make,as well as the torque they put out. I purposely sought out a stock factory 51 Ford business coupe with the original inline 6 in it to semi-restore because of this. V-8's were pretty easy to find,but it took me years to find one that was completely mechanically,had a clear title,and worth fixing. I already have a 3 carb intake for it,and am looking for a finned aluminum high compression head and cast iron headers to go with the 3/4 cam I will be putting in it. Ahhh,but the sounds that thing will make!

      Same reason I am keeping a flat 6 Mopar engine in my 42 Dodge coupe.

      In the spirit of full-disclosure,I have to admit that I  have a 6 carb 330 DeSoto hemi and push-button 727 to go in my 33 Plymouth coupe,though.

  10. WOW! That has me wondering if the thermostat is even closing.
  11. OOOPS! I read that,and then completely ignored it, As for the rest,increased pressure HAS to increase the flow rate,but since this is a semi-modern OHV engine that cools better than the old flatheads,it shouldn't make any difference.
  12. The 7 lb cap will put almost twice as much pressure on the system,and that pressure will make the water flow faster. These old flatheads are a LOT thicker and have more cast iron than the more modern engines,and don't lose heat as quickly. BTW,the 7 lb pressure cap pushing the water faster and reducing cooling is something I suspect,but have zero proof about. I guess we will find out when he swaps caps and hits the radiator with his temp gun.
  13. NO! Never use more than a 4lb pressure cap on these old cars. If it were me,I would use a digital heat "gun" to check the temps of the radiator after the car is fulling warmed up and still running,and then switch it off,let it cool,put a 4 lb cap on it,and then check the temps again after it is up to operating temperatures. I suspect you will discover the 7 lb radiator cap is the culprit.
  14. I would definitely use a digital "heat gun" to check the radiator and the engine and get heat readings "At the source" before I did anything else. Could be that your gauge is the problem,not your thermostat. I bought one on Amazon a year or so ago for about 15 bucks. Handy little booger to have. Once you have hit it with the heat gun and compared those readings to the dash gauge reading you will know if you even have an actual heating problem or if you have a gauge problem. If the numbers are comparable,why not try the higher temp thermostat? You already have it,so why not?
  15. No one can say you are a man without patience.
  16. Thanks,I didn't know that. I just assumed grease. Never had to rebuild one,but have had to fill a few that were dry,and always mixed grease with 90 wt,a thankless job if there ever was one.
  17. Oil? I thought they were filled with a very thick grease?
  18. You can,but it seems to me to be simpler and safer to remove the fan blade first because doing that reduces the chance of chewing up the radiator core with the fan blades when you take the pump off.
  19. Every shipper in the US has raised their rates the last few years. Fuel prices and forced hire of AA employees who are actually excess to the job are why.
  20. You can always add a vacuum cannister hidden under the car or in a wheel well to eliminate that problem.
  21. WOW! That is one gorgeous paint job! Was that dark maroon a factory color?
  22. Thanks!
  23. Thanks. I must have missed that one when I looked at the TCI page. Any problems with the installation or the system?
  24. Thanks. That makes a difference. The kit I mentioned from Shoebox Central works with disc or drum brakes,and doesn't have a booster. Drum brakes are pretty much a thing of the past these days. Even the web pages of antique parts dealers sometimes list rear brake shoes,but not front ones. I will switch over to disc brakes once I run out of drums to turn because it's now cheaper to buy disc brakes than drum brakes,but for the type of driving I do drum brakes work just fine.
  25. Are you still running drum brakes up front,or disc brakes?
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