knuckleharley

I'm interested in hearing how you made an exhaust with a filter,and made it work.

Your car,do what you want,but why in the world would you want to modify a 10k mile original car when you could sell it to a collector or restorer for big bucks,and there are cheap 51 Coronet's all over the country that have no drive trains or bad drive trains that you could buy for a percentage of what you can sell your car for?

You have our heartfelt sympathy.

Well,he did describe them as being vinyl,so who are we to question this from a photo? Also,why would any of us even notice it if it wasn't even an option with NA cars?

Well,it has a 12 volt battery under the hood,and a modern 12 volt radio installed in the dash. Those are pretty good clues.

Looks like it has already been converted over to 12 volt,so that is one headache you can avoid.

Maybe they are "cups" for a removable 3rd seat or seats?

Yeah,I like that one! Big surprise,huh?

The surprising thing to me is that he didn't try to sell his car designs to the British,who were really into mini's,or that they didn't try to buy them. There is no possible way for his cars to have been LESS reliable than the British cars.

I love it,but for some odd reason feel a little embarrassed to admit it. Pretty much has to be a PhotoShop build.

I know why,to keep you on your toes,that's why.

What's wrong with the chassis in the top photo? Looks fine to me. I only see a little bit of surface rust.

Close,but no cigar. Ain't NOTHING sounds nastier than a Max Wedge Mopar. Hot Y-block Fords do come close,though. They just don't make the ground shake as they idle past.

Moose,wasn't the 400jr a Isky 3/4 grind profile? I know I remember seeing the 400 Jr grind advertised in every HRM and R&C magazine I bought as a kid back in the 50's.

Well,my explanations may have been lacking,also.

I couldn't agree more with your reasoning. Please keep us updated on how the paint works for you. It sounds like you are using another brand of primer or primer/surfacer for the base coat. Please let us know the brand you use and how well it and the top coat "play together".

Well,I tried to explain it,but I guess I will just have to give up.

What type and brand/brands of paint do you plan on using,and why did you pick it over others?

You would remove the fuse from the fuse holder when starting the car with a 12 volt battery to keep from harming a 6 volt radio or any other 6 volt equipment. Once done,you would replace the fuse.

I have never understood why anyone worries about this. Just remove the fuse and you don't have to worry about it. If it's not fused,but a inline fuse in the wire going to it.

How does it sound?

You got it!

Well,the atf you poured in it last year went somewhere,or you wouldn't be able to pour more in there. Let it sit a couple of days and then with all the plugs still out hook a 12 volt battery to it and "bump" the starter a few times. Shock works better than brute forces,and sometimes it's the second or third "bump" that gets things spinning. A word of caution. Once it does free up,spin it over enough that all or most of the excess oil is out of the cylinders before putting plugs back in it. Oil doesn't compress worth a damn. Yeah,it is ALMOST a guarantee that the compression would force the oil past the rings,but "almost" ain't a sure thing. A little oil,no problem. A cylinder full of oil,problem.

First off,you do NOT want to put a breaker bar with a lever on the crank nut. If you can't get the engine to turn over with all the spark plugs out of it just by using a normal breaker bar and moderate pressure,you need to go back and start over again. Pull all the plugs and fill all the cylinders with something like Kroil,or a mixture of WD-40 and ATF. Let it sit for a couple of days to allow any that is going to seep past the rings using gravity to do so. Pull the side plates so you can see which cylinders have closed valves,and then use a auto parts store "valve hold shut" device that is used to hold valves shut while changing springs on OHV engines. I have made them from old spark plugs by knocking out the center and then tapping it so a air hose fitting will screw into it. Anyhow,the idea is to crank your air compressor output up to it's max,and then attach a hose from the air compressor to each cylinder that has the valves closed,one by one. Sometimes this is enough because just one cylinder being stuck can keep the engine from turning over freely. Sit back and relax until you hear "blub,blub,blub" noises coming from the base (you did remove the oil filler cap,right?) of the first one you hooked the air line too,and then move on to the next one. Once you have both bleeding air/allowing the Kroil/whatever to bleed down,pour both full again. No such thing as too much lube when freeing a stuck engine. Hook up your battery and "bump" the starter. I do NOT mean twist the key like you are trying to start it,I mean "bump it". You might be surprised at how often this works. If it doesn't work,close the rest of the valves and do this to each cylinder until you get them all free and spinning. Do NOT forget to add more Kroil/whatever to each cylinder as you free them up. Finish off by spinning the engine with the starter for short periods of time until you have pumped up oil pressure on your gauge. Normally,this would be when you would put the spark plugs back in it and start it up,but in your case you would just put them back in and pull the engine. It might even save you some machine shop labor money because an engine that is lubed up and spinning freely is easier to disassemble. At a minimum it will mean fewer parts broken by the machine shop as they force it apart.

I have had really good luck with reground to stock specs cams from Delta Cams http://www.deltacam.com/ on the northern left coast,and I understand they will also do custom grinds to any specs you desire. They also weld up,regrind,and heat treat tappets if you have an engine that tappets are hard to find. IIRC,all they do is cams and cranks,but they might do rods,also. NOT trying to harm Edgy's operation,just offering an alternative for people that might be seeking a more "generic" grind,like one of the old Isky patterns.