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Kaos

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About Kaos

  • Birthday 05/28/1977

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Anderson, SC
  • My Project Cars
    1946 p15 special deluxe

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    New owner to p15
  • Occupation
    Network Enginner IP Engineer

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  1. Kaos

    Brakes

    Not worried about now knowing that I should replace the MC. Have a link or a site to suggest where I can get a double outlet MC that will fit the car?
  2. Kaos

    Brakes

    I have started back on the 47 P15 Plymouth hot and heavy now that I have some extra time. I have put my disc brake conversion kit on for the front from scarebird. I have ordered replacement brake lines so I am about to install those as I noticed just how brittle the old lines where when doing the conversion. My question is should I replace the master cylinder or use the one I have currently? I have not visually inspected my current master cylinder but I know there is 0 fluid in the lines. I have read some mixed thoughts on this so I thought I would ask the experts here. I did a quick forum seach on this and didnt find it however I may have searched it incorrectly. My drum brakes in the back are completely locked up from the years of it sitting, are the back and front drums the same? Any suggestions on how to remove the drum cover without having to beat the crap out of them with a hammer as most suggest? I do have them soaking in PB blaster. I was very careful when I removed the front (once I got the drum off after beating the crap out of them with a hammer) and kept all the parts thinking they would be the same so I can use parts from front on the back. Also I am about to drop the tank and clean it out and seal it up again. If anyone has any suggestions I would love to hear them as I do not want to break anything or miss some hidden trick. I'm all about not reinventing the wheel so I would love to hear any suggestions. I do have a master service manual and I have read it a few times on the gas tank but thought I would ask here, at least for me it seems to be somewhat diffrent reading it vs actually doing it on a car that is 71 years old. Finally the only missing part from the car is the air filter. I know I don't want to run it without one for long periods of time but will it be ok to run it without the filter for a little while to move it around the yard? I have run the car for about 20 minutes with an IV line. I don't want to mess anything up as I just rebuild the carburetor and I am currently bidding on an air filter now on ebay but I know I will not have it before the weekend when I bring the old girl back to life and can stop her. Below you will find a photo of the disc brakes I added, but notice I had to cut the brake line that went to the drum as I am unable to remove the old line. It is just locked together from the years and if I put any pressure I know it will break those things are so brittle and old. Any suggestions on how to remove it? I am not sure how it will look at the master cylinder side but with new lines coming I can cut up the old but I would love to be able to take them apart and not break the line near the master cylinder. Anything else to use other than pb blaster and wd 40? Thanks guys, David
  3. Here is the damaged part Anyone know where to get the original air cleaner for the top of the carb I believe it was oil bath? That appears to be the only thing missing from this car and doing a web search its hard to determine what was original or I'm just gun shy to jump on one till confirmed its the correct part. is this correct? http://www.ebay.com/itm/1950-1951-52-1953-1954-Plymouth-Dodge-Oil-Bath-Air-Cleaner-Breather-Assembly-/191594873413?hash=item2c9bf1c245&vxp=mtr
  4. I found a damaged part on the carb. It's a rod that runs from the top butterfly valve to the bottom. It has 2 notches that keeps it in place and one of the notches are broken off. Anyone know where I can find this part? I recreated the part with some heavy Guage home electrical wire but I want to put it back right and that appears to of stopped my choke sticking issue. I will reply with photos in a few minutes to show exactly what I am talking about. Also is it normal for the carb to drip fuel when the gas cap is off but not leak at all when the gas cap is back on or could I have a gasket somewhere I missed? It's leaking with cap off under the top tank of the carb it appears there is a silver in color valve but I don't see how to get it off. From inside the top there is a copper bolt at that part that just had a washer on it when I checked it.
  5. Today after rebuilding the Carburetor, Fuel Pump and rewiring I got the car running. Here are a couple of videos of it running. I am however having a problem with the choke or I do not know how to use it correctly. It starts right up but when the choke is on the butterfly valve closes and will not reopen unless I give it a light bump. Any ideas where this could be hanging up? I am thinking it has something to do with the throttle because if I use it, it also closes the choke and will not reopen. Idea's? http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b627/Ka0s12/th_running2_zpstxlntyry.mp4 http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b627/Ka0s12/th_running_zpsqrlnij3x.mp4
  6. I am just about ready to start the rewiring process. I would like some suggestions what to use to wrap the wire in to make it look more original I was thinking the mesh wire loom but wasn't sure what it looked like in its original state. The current wiring is wrapped in electrical tape and I know that's not factory. Thanks.
  7. Thank you for all of your replies. I understand that getting the car mechanically sound is the first step and after a lot of thought I have decide to gut the engine compartment, paint compartment, engine and replace anything that is broken or will not clean up. As for wiring the wiring is all dry rotted with half missing sheaths and colors no longer there. I know there is a short somewhere not to mention all the aftermarket switches that I have no clue what they do so my thought is go ahead gut that and rewire using the correct colors and gauge and while in that deep do the conversion to disc brakes as well as replace all lines for the braking system and 12v conversion. Basically I will have the car tore down to have access to it all and slowly put it back together so I will know ever inch of my car just as I'm sure most of you do on your car. This car is to not only a project for me and my son to more mechanically inclined but its also to stop my need for instant gratification so I don't have a half done car all the time. I understand I have annoyed some of you with questions that are easily searchable and thus my instant gratification issue. I have decided to tear it down to ensure I slow my roll and do this right so if I do ask a question here it should be more appropriate and to the point instead of my random bouncing all over the place. I have been like a kid with a new toy and you guys have been parenting me into seeing that I need to rely more on me and not someone else. If I didn't want to do this myself I should just hire someone instead of taking up your time to reply to a question that I can easily find by putting in some time. Thank you for taking the time to reply and I will be sure to be more respectful of your time.
  8. This is the kit I was looking at for the 12v Conversion. See any issues with it? Should I take the 100 AMP bracket or do I need that? http://www.vintageautogarage.com/1935-55-Dodge-Plymouth-6V-to-12V-Convertion-kit-p/dp4655-k.htm
  9. I've decided before I go any further I am going to rewire the car, convert it to 12v and change the fuel pump. I have been confused as where to start on the car rather it was breaks, or starting or what ever else I find that is just scary and old. I think the first thing I should do is keep the car from burning to the ground is rewire it and convert so I can use LED lights and accessory's, turn the engine a little faster and not feel like I am dealing with alien technology by getting back in my comfort zone of having it negatively grounded.. That and there are several after market switches that I have no idea what they do and I'm sure there is a slow drain from the battery. Does any one have an intuitive wiring diagram that I could get a copy of? Again my service manual still isn't here but I also feel that someone here has tackled this before so I thought I would ask instead of reinventing the wheel things like what gage wires to use to what devices, and a good way to ensure I have a good way to keep the battery from having drains when off and if a fuse box should be added. In the past I asked you guys for hidden got ya's and those questions paid off big so I will ask again any hidden tricks? I think I am going to buy a 12v conversion kit, I know I can buy these pieces separate and save some $ but I like being able to hold someone accountable for the entire kit and not have finger pointing. I haven't measured it but thought I could save a second or 2 by asking what size pulley should I get on the alternator and do you guys know a great place to get this kit? Thank you guys for all your help I would be lost with out you guys. David
  10. There is a knob that is installed to the left of the key switch that turns and has a light that comes on in the center when on. Any idea what that does and would it be added? There are several switches that were added to the car but no idea what they do but I am rather curious what this one does. I did find one of these switches turns on a fan below the dash on the passenger side. The knob in question is located to left of the switch off the chrome does appear to be original but I'm just not sure.
  11. I emptied the tank and added 4 gallons of fresh gas to it. I also put a very small amount of mystery oil in the gas. Think it called for 4 ounces to 10 gallons I maybe put an ounce in.
  12. I finally got a key cut today and trying to start it turns over great and with starter fluid it will run till it burns it all. There is a clear fuel filter just before the carb and I can see gas collecting in the bottom of the filter but it never fills up. I have on a few occasions had the filter half full but once the car burns the fluid and dies the gas goes back down. Question is how does the pump work? Could the fuel cap not sealing good cause it to lose pressure and drain or could I have a hose somewhere clogged or leaking? Things to try? I have a service manual on the way but not arrived yet so I am kind of scratching my head. Also I noticed the battery cables are getting hot like to the point they started to smoke a little once. Normal or something else I need to check? Thanks for any help David.
  13. I am doing more and more research and yesterday while cleaning up the car I decided to just check the lights to see if they worked and brightness. Being a younger guy use to newer cars I would have to say I was less than impressed by the 6v bulbs, however there is a lot to be said about the car staying original and even getting that amber head light experience. I know there is a 12v conversion that needs to take place to feed the bulb the required juice but the more I look around the less I am concerned by doing this. Also safety is my main concern. This car will be used on weekend drives and maybe a show or two and my children and wife will be with me. My wife is also one of those I CAN DO THAT kind of girls and she just doesn't think things through like no power steering and dim lights. Therefore I do want to honor the original state but I also want to ensure my family is safe and Mrs. Independent can keep her ego in tact. Have any of you guys taken the LED plunge and if so what have you went with? I know the 6v bulbs are very week but with the advancements of LED they are getting better so what bulbs have you used and where to get them? These are what I am currently looking at and do I need to use a convert box for each light or can feed the switch in with a 6v to 12v converter? Tail Lights http://www.ebay.com/itm/1946-46-1947-47-1948-48-Plymouth-LED-Tail-Lights-/280487954774?fits=Year%3A1947%7CMake%3APlymouth%7CModel%3AP15+Special+Deluxe&hash=item414e628956&vxp=mtr Head Lights http://www.ebay.com/itm/36-WHITE-LED-RUNNING-PARK-LIGHT-7-H4-HEADLIGHTS-HEAD-LAMPS-w-RELAY-HARNESS-4-/281342335740?fits=Year%3A1947%7CMake%3APlymouth%7CModel%3AP15+Special+Deluxe&hash=item41814f5afc&vxp=mtr Retro fitting something like behind the Park lamps http://www.ebay.com/itm/2PCS-H3-White-6000K-10W-High-Power-Fog-Driving-Light-Bulb-Samsung-2323-LED-Lamp-/221424465388?hash=item338ded35ec&vxp=mtr
  14. And I took your advice on spinning the motor it turns with a little resistance by turning the fan so once I do have a key I believe she is ready to start.
  15. Thanks for that next question, leave the drum brakes or disc? If disc do them all the way around it just the front? As warned I believe the brakes need some work as the peddle has no resistance so either way something needs to be done but I would like you guys to give me your thoughts on this.
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