knuckleharley

I wish you luck. I know if I tried it,I would end up with wheels looking like they were bent and wobbling down the road.

You have to admit,that is a pretty great way to start out a new year!

There are probably 50 answers to that question,and probably a dozen or more change each election as politicians scramble to find creative ways of getting more income for themselves and their friends. I did this back in Colorado in the late 70's by walking into the DMV in Denver,handing them the serial number tag off the firewall,and then walking out that day with a new title in my name after handing over around 10 bucks. They ran a computer check on those serial numbers and that 35 Chevrolet pu had not been registered,reported stolen,or had a lien on it in the previous 10 years,so they wisely decided to sell me a title for it and get it back on the property tax books. I also did this in NC 4 or 5 years ago with my 4x4 37 Dodge 1 ton,and despite it having a clear title in Va,NC refused to accept it and made me apply for and get a new NC title. They did this because it was the 37 body sitting on a 72 Ford F-250 4X4 chassis with the 390 FE Ford engine in it. In Virginia,it was just peachy-keen to register this truck using the original 37 Dodge title and serial number,which was the 37 Dodge engine serial number. The NC DMV confiscated and destroyed both the 72 Ford F-250 title and the 37 Dodge title,and made me get a notarized estimate as to the vehicle value from 3 different commercial garages,and then post a 3 year bond of that value with the state and wait 3 years to get a clean title. In the meantime,even though they sold me vehicle registrations and tags,I was unable to legally sell it as I had no title. I don't even think I could have legally scrapped it because the idea is to post a bond in case someone shows up with a legal title to it and claims it's theirs. The good news is that at the end of the 3 year waiting time I was issued a good title for a 1937 Dodge with a unique NC DMV serial number. They even put a cheesy stick-on VIN tag in the door jamb. Even then,it was the luck of the draw,because I sold a 48 Dodge pu to a local friend that had a clear Va title with matching engine numbers,and he dumped a couple of grand in mechanics including a rebuilt engine with new pistons and ground crank,new brakes,new gas tank,gaslines,paint,tires,etc. When he went to get a title for it they refused to give him one because the serial number on the engine block and on the title was not a 1948 engine number. No kidding. Unlike me,he can't afford to raise hell about that because he has a commercial garage that is a NC State Inspection Station,and he can't afford to piss off the DMV inspectors. So basically,he's now stuck with it since the DMV destroyed his Virginia title because they deemed it to be fraudulent. He is a restorer and refuses to part it out. And each state makes their own rules.and change them often depending on the political viewpoint of the political appointee that heads up that state DMV. Some want to register them to get the tax money,and some hate cars and want to see nothing but public transportation/electric cars,and will do everything they can to make it hard to register a old one.

Thanks for the correction. It's been so long since I worked on my 42 that I couldn't remember.

Thanks again!

Thank you!

I am FB challenged. I can never find a damn thing there. Not even my own posts.

Does not apply to all cars. FoMoCo never had engine numbers,and I am sure they couldn't have been the only one.

Can you give me a link to him? Someone stole the serial number tag off my P-15 coupe after it caught on fire and was in the tow yard waiting for me to get it hauled home. Yeah,I have a clear title with the numbers and it shouldn't be any problem as long as I own it,but if I ever decide to sell it having a tag to match the numbers on my title would be a big help.

Ernie,I can't remember on Mopars,but I do remember the 6V positive ground Fords would show a full tank with the switch off. They would also max out the temp gauge with the needle pegged all the way to hot. This was normal. Turn the switch on and they reverted to accurate readings. Maybe it is just a function of positive ground systems?

Pretty cool-looking,ain't it? It's been a while since I have messed with the Olds,but IIRC,it is 12 volt. Not going to sell the balancer unless the buyer has a rebuilt 2 groove balancer to give me as a part of the deal. Ever try to find a balancer for a 324 Olds ? They and the pulleys are one piece.

Ace Hardware stocks it.

If this ever happens to you in the future,go to a local hydraulic or farm equipment dealer and have new hoses made on the spot. I did this with the PS hoses on my 58 Rambler. I live in a rural area,so my local NAPA dealer makes hydraulic hoses to specs right there in their store while you wait,too. It's usually cheaper,too.

Thank you very much! I have saved this information to my computer and will pass it on to the guy that called me so he knows what he is selling.

Hmmm,I have a 55 Belvedere parts car out in the yard,and I can't remember if it has PS or not. I bought it because it has a 230,auto trans,and rear. I'll have to check it when it warms up a little tomorrow afternoon.

Thanks! That has to be the one. I honestly didn't think PS showed up on anything until around 53. I do have a 54 Olds 4 dr parts car that has PS,PB, and factory air,though. Coolest AC setup you ever saw. HUGE compressor with the condenser and all in a big box under the parcel shelf in the rear. The cold air blows up through plexiglass tubes to vents in the roof,like you see in airliners. Been trying to sell that car to a Olds restorer for over 10 years now,and all I run into are guys that want to buy the special harmonic balancer that is one piece with the pulley with the extra groove as a part. They want it to put underdash ac in their hot rods with early Olds engines. As you can imagine,this harmonic balancer is hard to find,and if I sell it I pretty much have to give up all hope of selling the whole thing.

Clearly I ain't a automotive historian. So,you think the ps setup this guy has came from a Chrysler,and not a DeSoto?

I talked with a local guy I know earlier this afternoon. He knows I like Mopars,so he called me and told me he had a power steering setup that came off of a 1950 DeSoto,and was wondering if I knew anyone that wanted to buy it. Now,I know there were power steering setups with the pump on the rear of the generators with hoses going to the actual steering box ,but the earliest I remember seeing any of these were on 53-54 cars. Anyone know when the first Mopars with PS went on sale,and what models offered it? I am GUESSING it was mostly for the bigger,heavier DeSotos and Chryslers,and the stationwagons.

Guys,I did a litttle research on early ATF's when I recently bought a 51 Ford with the factory Fordomatic transmission in it that didn't want to engage,and didn't appear to have a drop of fluid in it. I learned/was told that the Dextron 3 was developed to work in the early transmissions that were built for Type A ATF. I was also told,like Andydodge reported,that the Dextron 3 was now getting hard to find,and was being replaced by a newer AFT that has Merc in the name. Now,it seems obvious to me that dey bees sum Compro-MISING be-in dun out dere,as De Kingfish would say. For one thing,the clutch materials have obviously changed in the last few decades,and to a certain extent so has the expectation of how an automatic transmission is supposed to perform. In the early days,the goal seemed to be to get firmer shifts to suit the car-buying pubic that was used to standard transmissions. Today,not so much. The focus is on smooth,and to lull you into thinking there are no gear shifts. What this amounts to is if you use the fluid (Type A) the manufacturers designed the transmissions to work with you will get slightly firmer shifts. Which,IMHO is a GOOD thing because quicker,firmer shifts equal less slippage and heat to wear out the clutches. Use the modern replacements,and you will have softer shifts with slightly more heat and wear because unlike the newer cars that will get 99 percent of the new fluid,the older cars used different clutch materials; Ironically enough,Type A trans fluid is very easy to find,despite being "replaced" twice already. I bought mine from a local Ace Hardware store the day I bought the car because I was there anyhow. You can buy it pretty much everywhere that sells ATF and motor oil. Since it is so easy to buy,slightly cheaper than the more modern oils,and IS the oil the transmissions were designed to work with,why not use it?

Tommy,I heard some VERY good news on the Pancreatic Cancer front maybe a week ago. Supposedly there is now a cure for it if caught in time. Do some web searching,my man! Also,do yourself a favor and seek advise outside of the VA. Unless the VA Hospital you are going to has a government research program going with the feral and state government via a local medical school,you are not getting the best possible treatment. Trust me on this. I have been going to VA hospitals since 1970,when they informed me there was no such thing as Agent Orange,and I was just trying to rip the government off for a pension. And this was after me getting medievaced from VN for severe skin and lymph gland problems.

If that's what it calls for,it works good,and you have no trouble finding and buying it,my best advise is "Don't fight gravity". Yeah,sometimes parts suppliers will update a old product to make it "new and improved",but that doesn't necessarily mean that it will even work IN YOUR CAR as good as the original product. Additives will have been added,and other additives taken away.

I beg to differ. V-8's only sound as good as a inline with split exhaust and glass packs in their dreams

Thanks,I just deleted a bunch of them. The trash can doesn't show up until you have picked messages to delete,and that threw me off.

Ok,so how do I delete some of the 200 messages I have there?

I wish I knew what to tell you about that. I can't even find my PM box now.