knuckleharley

The only one I am aware of that doesn't make you use a booster is available from Shoebox Central,a outfit that specializes in 49-51 Ford parts. Since it is set up to work with the original Ford brake pedal that goes through the floor and the bracket has to be welded to the crossmember anyway,I don't see why you couldn't make it work on your Mopar. Anyhow,here it is. Give it a look. Maybe even give them a call to ask them if they know of anyone that used their kit on a Mopar,and what,if any modifications did they have to make. http://shoebox-central.com/1949-1950-1951-ford-deluxe-dual-reservoir-master-cylinder-conversion-kit

I doan no nuttin bout no overdrive,but since it works sometimes and doesn't work other times,the first thing I would look at would be the grounds to make sure they were clean and tight/

Doan no nuttin bout no springs,but as far as engine swaps "fitting well",I guess that depends on how you define "fitting well". Some people put 392 to 426 Hemi's in them,but most seem to stick to small blocks like the 318-360,or even the V-6's.

I'm loving that one.

Look at the photos of my P-15 on this thread. The wheels are centered perfectly,and even those wide tires on the GM Rally wheels clear the rear fenders and the body on both the front and the rear.

Some of the best advise ever given.

Yup,I am in love with the sounds that hot inline 6's make,too. I rarely have any real desire to go fast anymore,but when/if I get it back on the road,my 425hp+ P-15 should take care of that need. Looking stock except for the wheels and paint just make it sweeter for me.

I can't speak for anyone but myself,but the "key" to old car pleasure to me is a combination of how they look,how they drive,and how they sound,and I especially love the smell of mohair interior in a car that has been sitting in the sun. I can smell that,close my eyes,and suddenly be back in the 1950's and sitting in a family car. I PERSONALLY also appreciate the sights and sounds of the 50's,with various hot-rod modifications to make the cars faster and safer. I personally draw the line at frame clips and high-tech computer controlled everything,though. When you go that far,they become modern cars in a costume to me. Nothing wrong with them,but they just don't bring back any childhood memories for me. Yes,I DO have a P-15 couple with a 78 Camaro frame clip,engine,auto trans,and rear. I see it as being a 78 Camaro wearing a clever disguise,not a antique or classic car in any sense. I enjoyed driving the car before it caught fire,and I will continue to enjoy the car when/if I get it back on the road,but driving it will be like driving a new high-performance car,and a completely different experience than I will have while driving my 6 banger 42 Dodge business coupe with the 49 Plymouth bumpers,pale purple paint,full "Moon" hubcaps,whitewalls,and 3 carb flathead with a 3/4 cam,39 Dodge floor shift trans,and split exhaust with glasspacks. When driving the "P-15 Camaro" I will be enjoying myself as well as getting where I am going. When driving the 42 Dodge coupe,I will be grinning from ear to ear the whole damn trip. BTW,I also own a dead stock as delivered 1931 Plymouth coupe,and it will remain a dead stock as delivered 1931 Plymouth coupe for every day that I own it. When I do sell it,I will do my damnedest to sell it to someone who also wants to keep it dead stock. MY OPINION ONLY,and worth every dime it cost you.

I think that since "D-24" is one of the site logos,that you are going to find very few people here who will disagree with you on that one.

No on the under hood photos. Mostly melted wire now anyhow. As for the wheels,I like the ones on it. If fact,I can't think of a single thing I don't love about that car,other than the fact I have to completely re-do it before I can drive it again. I even plan on repainting it that exact color,and getting ghost flames sprayed on it again if I can find anyone that can do them at a reasonable price. I did buy a rotisserie a couple of months ago though,so that day might be a little closer than it was.

Here are a couple of photos of my P-15 that were taken before it caught fire under the hood. Good thing I always carry a fire extinguisher! Notice how nicely the wheels are centered in the fender openings.

I bought a P-15 coupe with a 78 Camaro frame clip,motor,trans,and rear,and it rides,drives,and handles like a dream. The frame clip mated to the P-15 chassis VERY nicely,but the previous owner did a horrible job of finishing it off. Practically no bracing and what was there was only tacked into place. Also,the engine was only bolted down on 1 side,and the trans wasn't bolted down at all. It was just sitting on two short "L" brackets that had been tacked to the chassis. My favorite part was it was slopped together so quickly whoever did it didn't notice the speedo cable wrapped around the a ebrake cable,so they "fixed" the transmission leak by wrapping the tailshaft with paper shipping tape. Seriously. They didn't even use duct tape,which at least would have held back SOME of the ATF as it headed towards the highway. Still,I can't complain. I got it REALLY cheap and most of the repairs were inexpensive and mostly involved nothing more than welding and a few bolts and nuts,and a old GM factory trans mount crossmember I had laying around. The only real drawback I see to this is that using motor mounts in the stock location on the frame clip puts the rear of the engine so close to the firewall that a lot of head radiates from the engine to the firewall,but if I moved the engine forward it would cause radiator clearance problems. The front wheels are perfectly centered in the fender openings,though. The engine in it was a junker 305 and the transmission was a piece of crap Turbo 205 that doesn't rise the status of crap,so they are coming out anyhow to be replaced by a balanced and blueprinted 412 SBC that probably puts out a little north of 425 HP,and a rebuilt Turbo 350 with a hi-po shift kit and valve body. When I make the swap I will just recess the firewall a inch or two to make sure it doesn't heat up the interior of the car so much.

Same here. I just want to remind them to not scrap the parts they remove,and to give those of us who need them a shot at buying them. Like many I started out as a fan of high-performance hot rods back in the 50's. The older I get and the less time I have left,the more I appreciate the "if it ain't broke,don't fix it!" mindset.

" I've searched US Patent office with not luck (yet). " Good thinking!

Ok,I wanna see it in the dash. Where are those photos?

https://www.mobil.com/english-us/passenger-vehicle-lube/pds/glxxmobil-type-f-atf Mobil Type F ATF Mobil Passenger Vehicle Lube, United States View Mobil Type F ATF Type F Automatic Transmission Fluid Product Description Mobil Type F ATF is an automatic transmission fluid which is made from high quality base oils with viscosity index improvers, antioxidants, anti-wear agents, defoamants and special additives to provide the controlled frictional characteristics of a Type F fluid in automatic transmission applications. Applications The frictional characteristics of an automatic transmission fluid are an important factor in the design and operation of the transmission. All Ford transmissions built prior to 1977, and certain models that continued in use during 1977-1980, were designed for a high-friction fluid that allowed the shifting clutches to lock up or engage quickly. Ford specification ESW-M2C33-F covers this type of product, which is commonly referred to as "Type F" fluid. These vehicles are identified as: All 1976 and earlier Ford, Lincoln, and Mercury models of cars, vans, and light trucks;

Thanks. You are probably right. It's been a LONG time since I have owned something with a FOM trans.

Nope,it's a 3 speed. Most people think the early FOM's were 2 speeds because if you put on in Drive before taking off,it takes off in second gear. All you have to do is drop the lever down to the L position,and it shifts down to 1st gear. You still have first gear if you are starting out going up or down a steep hill,but if the road is slick there is less chance of you spinning a tire when you start out in second gear. Mopar used a different method to achieve the same results. It's really a Borg-Warner design,and the same trans used in the early 50's Studebakers. Ford didn't have a 2 speed Fordomatic until the 60's,and cars like the Falcon came out. You can put the valve body from a Cruiseomatic or FX ( I forget which at the moment) in it and it will start out in first gear from the drive position,and shift up and down like the Cruiseomatics shift. You can also push or pull the car to start if the battery is dead by dropping it down into low gear after getting up to 15 MPH or so.

Thanks. Hope to be driving it in a couple of weeks. Going to the DMV tomorrow to get a title in my name and buy tags for it.

It's a 51 Ford Victoria 2dr ht with the original V-8 and auto trans. Been sitting for years and needs paint and chrome,but is only showing 72K miles,runs whisper quiet,and the steering wheel isn't even cracked. Other than the vent windows,all the glass is even flawless with no clouding or cracks at all. I even got both sets of original keys with it as well as a clear matching title. I asked the guy what he wanted for it,and when he told me I said "Ok,will you take cash? If so,grab the title and follow me to the bank". I am guessing I got it for a little less than half of what it should have sold for. Since I usually pay about 50 percent more than they are worth,this was exciting for me.

I just bought another 1951 Other Make car,and the owner told me it didn't have any brakes on it. I just got it home and discovered why. There was no master cylinder on it. I found it in the trunk,in the spare tire well. The car is so solid,otherwise complete including NOS and redone trim and chrome, runs so good and is so rare that I was more concerned about getting it out of his yard before he changed his mind about the selling price than anything else. I also discovered a possible reason why the auto trans didn't work. In addition to having sat for for maybe 8 or 9 years,it took 2 quarts of ATF to get it to show on the trans dip stick. Who knows how bad it leaks or how many other quarts I will have to put into it when I start it up again? I will be going to town tomorrow to buy tags and get the title transferred into my name,and will be buying a master cylinder rebuild kit and case of Type F ATF while in town. You never really know what it is you are buying until you get it home and fool with it some.

My only advise is something you don't want to hear. You already have a strong,good-running,hopped up inline 6 that will comfortably cruise at or above the legal speed limit anywhere in the country,so why fix it if it isn't broken? If you need AC,it's as easy to put AC on the flat 6 as it is a V-8. If you just GOTTA have a V-8,why not sell your car and buy one that needs a engine and transmission to alter? You can probably get a pretty nice price for your car,and the ones with no engines or transmissions usually sell pretty low,so you might even save a few bucks. If you decide to make the swap anyhow,make sure you advertise your old engine and trans on the classifieds here. Someone will want them.

MY thoughts on the kingpins is you are nuts if you don't replace both of them at the same time. Both sides have the same amount of miles on them,so if one is worn and the other one already has free play in it,so replace them both at the same time and be safe and done with it. I can only guess that the right rear door hinge pin is loose because it didn't get replaced. You should be able to use a punch to knock it out,or buy a press made to push them out. The presses are pretty cheap. I think I paid something like 10 bucks for mine,but that was a long time ago. Ironically enough,I haven't used it since I bought it. Always took them out with a drift pin and a hammer before I bought it,and haven't taken one out since then. As usual with this old stuff,don't try to do it all with one swing of the hammer or twist of the screw. Move it a little,soak it with a penetrate,tap it back down to lube inside the hinge,tap it back up again,lube it,tap it back down again,and repeat until it is out. Once it is out use something like a bronze gun bore brush to eliminate any rust or grit in the hinge before installing the new pin,and lube the new pin well with grease before installing it.

Jorge,you need to rebuild the pump. The shaft and/or shaft bushing is worn,and when they start leaking like you described,that is a early warning that the pump is going to fail soon and that you need to rebuild or replace it. One thing is for certain,the leak is only going to keep getting worse.

Or you can just drill a hole between to lug holes on each wheel. I had to do that after driving from NC to Georgia to pick up a 55 DeSoto I had bought. Nobody told me the wheels and tires on didn't go with the car,and sure enough,it was sitting up on blocks when I got there. I went to a junkyard and bought 4 modern Ford wheels with tires on them that held air,and then drilled a hole in each for the locating pin.