JBNeal

I ran into a similar problem with The Blue Bomber awhile back as the yoke did not seem wide enough for the replacement U-joint, by maybe the width of the snap ring. I verified that new had the same dim's as the old, so remembered a trick I saw at the Waco driveline shop back around 2000. They chucked the yoke in a press, overdrove the U-joint slightly, installed the snap ring, flipped the yoke over and pressed the U-joint home to seat the other snap ring. I think the yoke flexes enough that the U-joint has to be worked into place with a press.

truck picture B-4-B-116: it was 35°F all afternoon while the Spring Special was blanketed with the rare snowfall ⛄

additional information - vintage sharpening gauge

You could probably make it fit but it's a lot of work making that pinch seam just the right size for the window seal to work...I looked at a '60 V8 fleetside with the big rear glass up near Amarillo a few years ago, a nice original, but I was struck at how little structure the cab and hood had. All that glass gave excellent all-around visibility but the A- and B-pillars looked flimsy, and there was the typical floor rust because of the leaky windshield/A-pillar areas, so I passed on that beaut. So to make that big back glass fit, ya gotta cut out a chunk of steel that might compromise the roof integrity when flying down the highway ?

additional information - radiator replacement

ultimately, the truck's build card would need to be inspected to verify original engine and cab match the serial number...Eric has has done extensive research to verify sheet metal numbers along with the flathead engine numbers, so he might be interested in the verfied numbers if ya pull the trigger on this buggy and get it registered

Maybe that data tag was stamped late on a Friday by a guy who didn't get the memo about the model change...the real test is to see if the frame serial number matches the data plate ?

That would be something if the Meadowbrook body fit on the Dakota powertrain... ?

additional information - Gear Oil RTV

kinda looks like ya spotted another survivor... ?

after further review, it may be easier to heat up the shift rod to soften the knob material enough to yank it off the rod without destroying the old knob...that way the old knob could be kept as a trophy like a pulled WDT, and the rod can be cleaned up and threaded for a replacement knob...no need for a hacksaw when a propane torch will do

additional information - bullseye halogen conversion

additional information - floorboard bolt alternative

additional information - door latch details additional information - door latch operation

additional information - floorboard details

additional information - Flathead Valve Spring Compressor (see tool on the left in the last pic)

additional information - sharpening twist drill bits with belt sander additional information - sharpening twist drill bits with bench grinder

Agreed...might be listed under temperature gauge reducing bushing...I needed one years ago, bought a universal temperature gauge at Western Auto as it had a variety of bushings included, still have the gauge in the packaging...nowadays, ya might be able to locate exactly what ya need and have it delivered to your doorstep

Last week, I went thru the Dad's pile of drill bits that had accumulated in the barn workbench drawer, all from 10 bit sets purchased over the years. I chucked every bit and drilled into some scrap steel, watching the chips and smoke coming from the bore, separating good from dull bits. The old Craftsman and Black & Decker bits, made in USA, have held up well and still cut very good...chinese bits from either brand were nowhere near as good and have been quick to dull or break, evidenced by the number of bits under 3/16" that were missing from each set. Post Christmas tool sales are usually when new bit sets are picked up as it's been cheaper to get an entire set than to replace individual replacements. Factor in the cost of the drill doctor and the frequency that bits are used, and the way I figured it, it was cheaper to score drill bit sets on sale than to sharpen existing stock. Underlying this decision is the country of origin of bits...chinese bits rule the market now, and are not of very high quality, but cost is low. Dad asked me about buying a drill bit sharpener, I told him to avoid the cheapo HF variety, then showed him the 5 sets of usable drill bits I had organized, and he agreed that what we had was good enough for now...the fistful of dull, rusty bits I culled out went into the scrap metal bucket, almost all were chinese. If I was in a position to snag a complete fractional and numbered bit set of high quality, I'd splurge for a good quality sharpener to maintain those bits. But as long as I have access to economy bits for little projects, it's hard to justify the expense of a decent sharpener when replacement bits are so cheap.

CHALLENGE ACCEPTED additional information - shift knobs ? additional information - shift knob threads ?? thinking outside the box, the shifters can be cut directly below the old knob with a hack saw and new threads can be cut for a new knob...sure, the new knob will be maybe 1/2" lower, but I won't tell anybody

What is your path to ground? The shortest path is the best, through the fewest number of mechanical fasteners...for optimum performance, the battery grounded to a starter mounting stud improves cranking speed, and from there a ground strap can be used over to the nearest frame rail to turn it into a buss bar where the sending unit can be grounded ?

This may or may not help...

additional information - Fuel Pump Block-Off Plate

the good news is that exhaust manifold can be used as a donor for a dual exhaust manifold ? additional information - dual exhaust manifold adapters

additional information - Flathead Identification