JBNeal

I recall that the pinstripe overalls were for the gentleman farmer in my neck of the woods, usually worn only into town for trips to the store, the bank, or the tractor/truck dealers

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According to Dad, the engine was swapped years before I existed...on front sump engines, the block has a metal plug similar to a welch plug in place of the dip stick tube. A possible solution is to tightly fit a short bolt or headed pin set in black RTV.

SURVIVOR: Saw this on the FB, apparently it will be up for auction in April in Montana...now I have a better idea what colors were used on the B-2 Spring Specials

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That's part of the "fun" of locating replacements for obsolete parts no longer in production is to wade through all of the 21st century internet baloney of erroneous information. I dealt with this firsthand at an OEM where 3 ppl with inadequate background for working on equipment documentation consolidated volumes of details to streamline the service manual department...they were trying to eliminate overlapping data from numerous models, but ended up eliminating critical manufacturing and servicing information as well as muddling inaccurate assembly drawings used by manufacturing, service departments, parts sales departments, field sales reps...a bona fide mess that I stumbled upon that took months to clean up. If one person is tasked with updating files with no one qualified to double check the work, we get these inaccurate online applications on low volume products, with little incentive for the vendors to correct the information. I found equivalent lug studs and lug nuts on the Dorman site for 1-ton trucks, but they do not list them in their applications...also found a whole slew of shock absorbers for B-series trucks, then reached out to the manufacturers and vendors to update their applications on several occasions, but have not had any response from any of them...so all we have left are these online support groups to keep our buggies on the road I reckon

I was able to get the Dorman search engine to work better this morning and found these possible solutions: additional information - Dorman 610-618 lug stud additional information - Dorman 610-389 lug stud additional information - Dorman 611-052 lug nut

that might be a good deal if there was $1500 stuffed in the oil pan...I have scanned the craigslist for a time and scored a couple of freebie 218s not running but in good shape, drove over a few big bridges and paid a couple hundo for non-running 218s and 230s + transmissions, a couple had trucks still holding onto them...had to stop looking a few years ago because my storage areas were getting cramped along with my schedule. But I recall hauling the most when ppl were doing spring cleaning and when ppl were preparing for winter, so maybe a reasonably attainable flathead is right around the corner

I cannot find an equivalent to Mopar 593978 on Dorman's or Van Horn's site using the dimensions listed, nor do I have an example to verify what might work. Rock Auto's Dorman listings are for 3/4" studs, so maybe that can work in a modified hub but not sure if it'll be a problem for the wheels. additional information - Power Wagon vs 1-ton wheel studs

If ya want to heat up that engine, block the radiator airflow with cardboard or a big plastic bag...the flathead engine block has a lot of mass so it takes awhile to heat it up enough that the thermostat stays open

Kinda sounds like your custom powertrain will need more customizing...the issues you describe do not surprise me as flathead development was an evolutionary process, and not everything is backwards compatible. I am guessing that your custom engine mounts and linkages will be easier to come by than finding a specialized starter. FWIW, I have a '54 Plymouth 230 in my '48 1/2 ton, and it has the truck oil pan and oil pickup to clear the steering rods. additional information - flathead oil pan clearance additional information - flathead oil pan differences

I believe the IND 5 and IND 30 have timing chains, and the 5A and 31 have timing gears... additional information - Industrial Flathead Engine Identification

the last time I looked for a line leak was on a Saturn with an EGR system with a lotta plastic lines that was setting fault codes...rigged up a 1/4 turn ball valve from my compressor and pushed <5 psi through the system, while slowly rubbing a soapy sponge along the lines...soap bubbles popped up in a few places, marked them with zip ties, and patched them up...did this all crawling around on my back...yeah I'm not a fan of Saturn's cuz of that exercise...the alternative was to rig up a smoke machine from a variety of youtubes but I didn't want to spend the $$$

Ya might want to take it a step further by pulling the head and oil pan to get a look at the combustion chambers, valve seats, crankshaft...look for broken ring scoring, sludge, carbon buildup, and rear main seal leaks. I have rebuilt flatheads with the engine in the truck, even replaced valve guides engine mounts...it's easier to overhaul a flathead on the stand, but if it only needs new gaskets and seals with no machine work, then it can be done without removing the engine. Another thing to look for is timing chain wear, this too can also be done with the engine in place, more than likely that crankshaft seal will also need updating. These flatheads were designed to be serviced, with many repairs geared towards being done in a service station back in the day. With the unknown condition of the internals, better to be safe than sorry by giving it a thorough inspection before possibly exacerbating any potential problems. If the internals are pristine and everything appears in order, then you're good to go ?

Fuel fouled spark plugs are an obstacle that I ran into in winter months when the flatheads would crank too long. I would remove each spark plug, clean off debris with a brass bristle brush from electrode + tip, spray a 2 second blast of ether down the slightly open carburetor, apply full choke and 1/4 throttle, then crank the starter, with 2 pumps of throttle pedal per second after cranking for 3 seconds if the engine did not fire immediately. If this did not work after 15 seconds, I would repeat this entire procedure once more...after that, I would take a break for a few hours to charge the battery back up to full. Most of the time this worked, the next step was to clean the carburetor to get a dribbling jet to spray properly. Another twist to this procedure is to be in 2 places at the same time with the flathead in the truck. Choke and throttle are set in the cab, key turned on, park brake set. Ether spray nozzle added the tube that comes with most brake cleaner cans. Temporary linkage made from steel rod so that carburetor throttle could be operated from the driver fender area while the starter arm was actuated by hand. Plenty of hand-eye coordination required for this procedure...and it's great fun when it works

3 possible locations: between #5 & #6; below carb facing the firewall; below carb facing inner fender...although I have an older intake that has no tapped vacuum port. I see no ports from the picture that you posted of that part of the engine compartment ?

I rewired my '48 1/2 ton with 6V connectors back in '96...they look the same as 12V connectors...haven't had a problem with that wiring yet...the biggest problem is splicing new wires onto the original cloth covered wiring, as the old wiring is susceptible to corrosion inside the cloth covering since it does a poor job of sealing out moisture. This causes the original wiring harness to have sky high impedance, and ppl think that converting to 12V is a safe shortcut to having a functional electrical system, but that's a different discussion.

Get yourself a can of Pringles..."dispose" of the contents...take the plastic lid and a ball point pen...set the lid over your carburetor opening...apply downward pressure to the lid perimeter by holding with the kung-fu grip...firmly trace the desired inner diameter to cut with a sharp utility knife...trim the desired outer diameter...if'n ya don't like the results, get yourself another can of Pringles and try again

When I first started my '48 1/2 ton in '96, I used the J8 plugs that were in it for a few thousand miles. Those J8s were made in the early 70s, Dad put them in when he drove the truck til he parked it due to a variety of issues + not having time to work on it in the late 70s or 80s. I replaced them in 2002 with new J8s as those decades old plugs were worn to the nubs, but the new J8s fouled up in a hurry in weather below 60°F. Around 2004, I changed to the Autolite 306, and carbon fouling went away. I did not have the time to figure out what was going on in the flathead, but about the same time, I had a Champion grenade in my '92 John Deere 425 Kawasaki 2cyl, another Champion grenaded in a Troy-Bilt rototiller with a Briggs & Stratton, and had heavy carbon fouling in Grandma's '86 Diplomat. Replaced all those plugs with NGK and AC, and those problems went away. Champion wasTHE spark plug for a very long time, but these quality issues in the early 2000s soured me on them...does Champion make a better plug now? Does compression play a role in carbon fouling? I recall how surprised Dad was when I told him that smooth running flathead I had revived after sitting for 20+ yrs was using the same Champion spark plugs that he put in it before I was born...I do not know if that kind of quality is even possible these days from Champion, as I believe their materials cost cutting to improve profitability has been miscalculated to their reputation's detriment. But if the Champion J8 is made nearly as good now as it was in the early 70s, I would run them again in a heartbeat...cold startups were less than 10 seconds, wear was good, any fouling was serviceable within reason, a good value if the quality has improved.

Jimbob: [bounces in reverse] B: I like it! J: HEY ? ...and then your co-pilot bails out before ya get the parking brake set ? When I first got the 1-ton rolling after its 4 yr hiatus thanks to that tow truck snafu, the gas pedal pedal would hang up like that...I got pretty good at the driving calisthenics, could even grab the pedal going through a turn while downshifting...then I fixed it after the shifter knob caught me under the chin after hitting a bump in the road ?

them heater controls look to be mounted for the passenger's benefit... Horkey has replacement tailgates... DCM has some tailgates...maybe them shiny strips could be dulled with some vinegar or terlet bowl cleaner, they pop too much with the bed sheet metal paint, kinda like the mouthy know-it-all answering questions that nobody asked ? EDIT: maybe pull a strip out and practice on its backside...you can adjust to get the look ya want, then flip it over and treat them all ?

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these reproduction u-joints with the central grease point could work if low profile 90° zerk fittings could be sourced, but those are hard to find these days as well...agreed that it is infuriating to have an online vendor reel ya in with a sale only to say "on back order" when a delivery date is requested. Updating the entire affected driveline is almost the last resort to source the spicer-type u-joints, short of updating to a newer rear axle, but it sure would be nice to find a crate of Cleveland-type crosses coated in cosmoline

Not trying to be critical here but shouldn't getting the engine running be a priority? Then fuel delivery, brakes, suspension...after all that is dealt with, then the paint...not fun to make it all look nice then find out that the block is more incontinent than the old sailors home on game night ?