Adam H P15 D30

I'm not sure where you are getting your information but you are comparing modern engines with basically antique/obsolete technology. I agree that with modern vehicles it is very difficult to improve on the stock intake/exhaust because there was actually "engineering" involved with their design. In the earlier years these engines were engineered just enough (not much) to meet target specifications. Once met no further engineering was needed. Even the factory offered upgraded intakes and exhausts among other items during the muscle car years and even before. Examples would be the Super Stock Dodges, 300 Hemis, GTO's........ Now for late models - In the late 90's Ford lowered the hood lines of the Mustang, by doing so the Cobra intake was pancaked and the car was released to the public without meeting it's advertised HP. Subsequently there was a recall that replaced the intake with a hand ported one and replacing the exhaust with a more free flowing system, thereby increasing the HP to the advertised amount, so it does improve things. Technology improves over time also, look at what people called high performance cars in the 80's verses today. A 81 fuel injected vette made 150hp in California, now 600+ and better mileage / driveability also. When I was racing Pontiacs in the 90's, if I dropped the hammer at max RPM as you state above I would have left parts at the lights. Please understand multiple carbs, especially on these long Siamesed port engines, do make improvements all around with the only downside is a bit more tuning. I have done it and witnessed it first hand, you?

My expierence with adding dual carbs and headers is the exact opposite of what you describe.

Weld it in the closed or horizontal position (warm engine position)

Drove my 49 for a month while my kid was home from college. rain, shine, hail and a leaky windshield, added another 1000 miles to the clock... Need to revisit the vacuum wipers

2" blocks in the rear + 1 leaf removed. 1 coil cut off the front. Could go another inch in the front.

I enjoyed making my own and it was a fun project. Made better power, better driveability, better mileage. The acceleration from about 2000-3500 RPM was the biggest improvement. It made me very happy with my "too tall" rear axle gears I was once planning to change out. I have no dyno results but I did a before and after run up the same hill starting at the same speed and there was a significant difference. 55 is correct about dual carbs providing better fuel distribution on this engine.

I have found it easier to drive my FD equipped 49 like a normal 3 speed. Sometimes when I'm in slow, curvy, hilly parts I let the FD do the work but I feel it drags the engine down too low when stopped. Maybe I'll lower the fluid level and retry some day but remember, the clutch is smaller than a non FD clutch so don't ride it too much.

On my 49, I used a 65a 1 wire alternator but if I had to do it again, I would use a 3 wire for better charging at idle but it's never been a problem. I used a blower motor out of a 60's Dart and it was a bolt in and works good with the original 2 speed switch. Instead of spending a lot of $$$ on converting the fuel gauge, I used a $12.00 runtz resistor from Speedway but it probably would work fine on 12v. Been running my 6v starter as-is for years with no issues. I converted my AMP gauge to a volt meter and the original clock has been running on 12v for years and works perfectly. 12v coil and a slant 6 electronic distributor because I have 12v makes a big difference starting. I hide all my relays in the old voltage regulator on the firewall.

Too bad you could only read the teaser paragraph without a subscription.

I am not an authority on paint and I would never claim to be, but I shot a 2 part Urethane clear coat over Rustoleum enamel on the roof of my 49 without issue. In fact I shot it over the old paint and rattle can primer spots without issue. 7 months of sitting in the sun, rain and dirt, looks like the day I shot it. FWIW When finished spring of 2018 last month, no issues Adam

Northbound hwy 35, 5 miles north of 84 (Alice’s Restaurant) headed toward 92. And you’re exactly right, nothing like the view of the road through a split windshield with the hood ornament leading the way. Adam

PCV needs a manifold vacuum source to function correctly. If you want a "closed" system you could plumb the breather to the air filter assy, but not the valve itself. Adam

Here is a shot take by my son as we drive through the coastal foothills in the Bay Area Thanksgiving weekend

Offsetting the pinion to one side will not cause any vibration as long as you don’t install the engine crooked.

PCV is nothing more than a metered vacuum leak with a check valve Incase of backfire. It is always doing its job except at WOT when the intake vacuum approaches atmospheric pressure (no vacuum). This is displayed about the same time the wipers stop. Adam

Must be a "drive your car to work" day, glad I wasn't the only person. Since my daughter is home from school for a month, I loose my truck and my 49 becomes my daily. Looks lonely in the sea of plastic cars Adam

Here's one, much better than the rack & pinion option. Adam

I believe 49 was the first year.

It's the speed sensor, the "hose" is the wire shield.

Your manifolds look top notch! Much better than the others out there...

What size tires are you planning to run?

Just make sure your body is securely bolted down to the frame. My floors were non-existent so I made a new structure and used 14ga for the flat parts, 18ga for the trans/driveshaft tunnel and lower rockers. Harder to work with but very solid and quiet.

I would just replace it. Look for GL1-GL4 oil only, stay away from GL5.

The valve built into the original master cylinder is more like a 10lb residual valve. My disc brakes were dragging with it in there. I removed it and added no external valves and it’s been working fine for some time now. Even after sitting for weeks I never have a low pedal. Adam

Multiple carbs and dual exhaust do make a difference. I agree 3 may be too much and you could also run into firewall clearance issues. I would look at dual Carter-Webers from Langdon, mine run very well on an otherwise stock flathead. Performance and driveability were both improved. Adam