Plymouthy Adams

well you can....but often there is a learning curve thrown in....! This comment may go far helping others coming along behind you.

I checked the head in the shop a minute ago and it is 1/2 NPT for the temperature adapter...the adapter itself will be straight threaded internally as the gland nut job here is to seat the bulb against the taper in the bung for a seal. To bypass install of temp sender at this time, a 1/2 NPT plug will seal...use a bit of teflon tape....this is a non pressurized system pre 51.....so you not having to crank it down much to seal

Audience is now pretty much numb would be my guess, but of course so much of this is pure talk anyway. Many of the suggestions are from those that have never fitted such a swap. My thoughts are that people tend to put in what they may have on hand or free to them from a friend. I do not think it is for any other reasons.

I just day before yesterday went to the shop with my fuzzy trim pieces for the car I am working now. The outer is as you are seeking and also an upgrade to this door of the style that is an actual wiper and fuzzy combo. The inner is as stock and will clip into the door as normal. The outer has been prepped to also snap into the door as original and not use any glues. I am not sure of the manner your door is fitted...length etc....but these are just over 19"

new styles fall into the range of wiper....they will remove water and such from the glass when rolled up and down lot better than just the fuzzy anti rattle strips. The outer is truly your only real NEW style you may want to change...first is the fact it is impossible to get the fuzzy with the clips built in and trying to attach anything to mimic factory is not usually successful. Pay attention to the roll of the door in this area....this one feature alone could be the most limiting aspect of attaching modern style belt stripping. Some seat cover clips/cleats can attach this style to the existing frame of the door. attaching the older fuzzies is not at all hard to do and while I see you wish to use the new....if you are unable to find new to adapt, you can use the clips from a couple other car markers of the era to attach to the Mopar....hole size mod is in my experience the only thing you need to do. Glue is not the right method to attach as with most any glued on piece you will be setting yourself up for paint damage should you have to remove these to replace a glass or repair a damaged regulator. This can be very costly shortcut in the long run.

again you failing to see what was said and you are even now ignoring the original post and the idea that he was concerned over the taper axles and keyways.....they were not a problem on the early mopars and not AGAIN as mentioned when the design continued with the production of the 8 3/4 and putting the muscle to the pavement behind some very powerful engines, again no problem with taper axle and even after Mopar dropped the tapered axles other companies continued yet with taper axles again with no problem...the only problem here is you are not able to comprehend the concept of an axle design...not a an actual axle classified by a ring gear size...as I said from post one...the taper axle are not an issue....that have withstood the test of time. And while the 53 axle may well fail within the carrier.....the post was not questioning the gears, the man was concerned with the taper axles failing.

hold will work for me and I have used them and never had a problem..often, others will not hold....lets say I am coming to look at your car and call and tell you I will be there in 4 hours due to the distance....IF you cannot wait 4 hours as I spend my time fuel and such to get to your place....I ask only the car be there and available to me at listed price, not higher because you just to an offer in the wings...then I have no trust in the seller. IF you think that is a slam to you I am sorry....now if I had a teleporter....be a no brainer....but, think bout it, if some one else offers while I am enroute...its a definite backup buyer...but somewhere you should give courtesies to the out of towner coming your way. I have had folks honor this and have bought cars in this fashion in Indiana, Ohio, WV, SC, Kanasa, Florida, Missouri and so many that were just a hour or so away. If I am not there when I say...then I failed to deal...if they sell it before our agreed meet....they a jerk...for sure their car their call...but they less than honest and still a jerk.

and another thing...say they make arrangement to meet to see a car...police station parking lot is great for this....if they show in a group....that means they have muscle, test drive folks and means to take the car they drove up in at the same time and be gone while you get booted if YOU are LUCKY.....sad days we are in now...I do not look at this as paranoia...I look at it as the basic street rules..the folks you dealing with did the alterations over time.

simple as this and the scammer I encountered this morning...at least I am calling him a scammer....rules of buying..... price is as posted in ad there is no bottom line without an in person inspection of the car to show WHY I may be off in my pricing cash in hand at sale.. no checks of any sort...cashiers or other wise...we not talking mega thou here folks... no agents....positive picture identification of buyer at time of sale for proper information for filling out bill of sale and title see the above, NO AGENTS..... payment to be made before loading onto trailer or hauler etc. I am not a broker, dealer or flipper...I got it, you want it...bring cash

read again please...not talking 8 3/4, but talking same as he....then comparing the same axle style, tapered with keyway as is the 53 to that of Mopar through 64.....and the very ability to stand up to the punishment of the max wedge with its 420 HP factory output.....further, I mentioned also that this style taper with key continued way past 64 in many other makes and models still running factory big blocks....there is no fault in the design...

I had figured you stumbled on Jimmy Hoffa's body and been silenced with your absence... Lyme disease if not fun.....even a young whipper snapper once diagnosed can be two years to anything close to recovery...wife's nephew is coming close to 6 years now and is about back up to speed. My neighbor for his age has done well but like you.....tires quickly...longer rest time between work bouts...ticks always make me nervous for this very reason.....I stay out of the woods...fish is so much easier caught on sale at the grocery store and well, Bambi is nothing but a tick hotel on the hoof. I am in the midst of a brutal heat wave and will try a new discipline of being in the shop by about 4AM and get my shop hours in early....just got to do things quietly till start of normal working hours. I never disturb my neighbors though most are far enough from the shop not to know what I am doing anyway. It is NEVER about finishing a project...it all about the time being creative and engaged in something you enjoy....deadlines take it from fun to a JOB....I have no need of a job...90% of don't if you honest with yourself.

spline axle shafts are often not a problem at all if you do the maintenance per the specs.....this axle style continued with the 8 3/4 till along the 64 model year and held up to some beefy machines....the max wedge for one....the Salisbury is the Euro version of Dana and put these rear axles in a number of their performance cars.....I have this axle setup in a couple factory 440 powered setups all in positive traction might I add. The hardest drums I have ever encountered to remove of this style was my Volvo PV544..

cost of living going up............chance of living going down......

thanks for the update....the man must be feeling mighty poorly not to come to the forum. Tell him best wishes from me if you will...last word was he gave up on the V8 in the truck....I am guessing it is the truck with the bad rod he is working with. Also, thanks for taking time to run and check on a forum member that was MIA

not everyone posts their donations....like the above mentioned headlight deal, the man was kind enough to give me a headlight...he paid the postage....I in turn donated to the forum in his name..I only mention this as I do not think any of this would be found on open forum.

what copper washer are you referring to? sound as it is not just a standard flat washer or standard application.....a standard flat copper washer (common to brake banjos etc) has the same properties each side...your question point to something altogether different and of special intent.

I understand that completely and is most commendable...GTK is kind enough to offer wanted listing for free...seller have to pay for an ad....thus if offering free (you wish no monetary gain) it is showing respect to GTK to do this privately...but then, this is just my opinion...many still abuse the policy in place with outright offers to sell on open forum...totally out of line and shows blatant disrespect for the rules and cuts into GTK's funding to host this forum which thus far remains free to the public at large.

parts offers should be in PM form....this is skirting the classifieds in a gray manner..

have you done any amperage draw tests or any voltage drop test to ascertain the physical attributes of the system are within specs? If not, this is the place to start....if any finding....proceed to correct deficiencies as found.

the most commonly found hubcap today is a Toyota Camry guy would be eating rabbit track stew selling caps today.

if original, the filter is a sintered bronze....(oilite) if you suspect major clog here, many report they were able to knock this off the outlet pipe with a flexible cable and place an inline external of the tank for filtration.

no, again the systems are very different and operate on different principles.... let me add..... if you are not going to repair the in dash existing gauge and hang a gauge below the dash...you will also need to have the matching sender for even this aftermarket device as the customary ohm range is way way above that of the 54 Plymouth even....most of these default to the SW range of ohms...

your 48 will not interchange with the 54 unless you also use the appropriate sender for the 54.....you are dealing with two operationally different systems here.... with that said, your car may have been altered in the past and in that case all bets are off as to what is or is not fitted. You 48 could well be as that of a 49 first generation as many of these are reported with the later style sender/gauge combo

and then you woke up...(but I like your jab)....actually my choice is to lose the steel wheel and go alloy.....only one of my old cars with steels wheels has the factory correct Cello wire caps on them.....many here would balk gasp and scream to the heavens on the initial cost of Cello caps let alone the work to make them shine like new money or tolerate the time added when servicing the wheel.

some will add RTV when installing the caps...many will actually check to ensure that the spring clips are not sprung and thus apply adequate gripping....and regardless of any approach the chance of losing a cap is always there I suppose and why many will place their name and phone number inside the cap in hopes if found would get their cap returned to them.