Plymouthy Adams

you got to remember the trend to many of these fast cheap and easy mods are the work of low budget as in no money mods to field found cars...still very popular with the ratters...if it is cheap, tacky and gives you tetanus...right up their alley

if you marines would ever learn to walk on water we could get rid of the navy.......Salutes to all Vets and special salute to those now serving...

starting digging the cars out of the shed....its quite the job to be truthful....mentioning this just to say....3 snakes spotted in the process.....end of the window we had to work, two 4 cars moved....mine are setting in position to load next trip up

good to see Jerry out and about scrounging up parts....so no, he is not the snake in the picture, in truth I saw no snake but was only trying to get folks to start looking for one....I was looking at some cars buried beneath stuff in a shed yesterday and the man said he DID see a snake the day before.....today is start of retrieval of said cars.

all I have to say about battery cars is right here.....most of us will not see a battery vehicle until it is a powered wheel chair/handicap scooter...then they will be too fast for many.... https://video.search.yahoo.com/search/video?fr=crmas&p=you+tube%2C+julia+dreyfus%2C+battery+car#id=1&vid=e9964fbf24e20aa42a5220eb23d30308&action=click

when the points are OFF...that means not conducting in electrical terms....the voltage will be the potential of battery each side of the coil....only when on (conducting) should you not read voltage on the distributor side of the coil as it is taking the path to ground....ground is ground...!

not to mention the windshield trim and connector clips..the antenna mounts are nice and heavy duty...the aerial seems not to have survived as well anybody see a snake in this picture...?

enclosed golf cart...be good when playing a round in cold weather...

the 58's I think were mounted on the fenders....I have a set of these... I could not make them fit and be effective...however, their looks were fantastic overall....like man forward fender mounts on plenty of foreign cars....there is no substitute for the look...

forget all I said and continue on your path...it is apparent this was your mission prior to the question.

I would add a intermediate plate myself if I were to entertain this thought...that way bolting would keep everything leveled per se and sandwich easily when bolted....retrofit back to stock a plus aspect...as for the sway bar....addressing this would be to add an equal spacer to the frame horn and lower it to match the new location of the a-arm. Now granted I have not done this mod but this is my thinking process based on the simple design of the components. As for the brackets for the sway bar...a simple notch on the spacer would be most effective..

mirrors were basically aftermarket and dealer installed...you have to search out mirrors for fit of base and the curvature of the neck and base is paramount to a well fitting look and ability to use without interference from the vent....therein lies the main problem for recommendations. someone can probably tell you what they used but not necessarily what you would like in the end. I modified some two different mirrors into a homogenized blend for what I thought was practical application and retained a good look about them. Most folks see that as too much trouble....involved cutting and threading mirror heads...

I have always seen the post on placing the spring plate to the lower side and never could understand the simple "just place it on the bottom" section of the answers given. The plate is a stamped pieced of metal with a upturned lip that when placed to the bottom in a manner for the spring pocket to be right for the spring will not sit flush to the bottom of the a-arm without some sort of filler material fabricated to fit the pocket of the spring place. Without this displacement will be very little surface to surface contact and in my opinion asking for future problems...even if welded...the lip is not designed for permanent mounting to other components. Now if you flip this to a flat to flat mount as it is originally position on the top of the a-arm..no one has ever address the spring pocket and its spring locator function...in either case the snubber is also modified, or at least should be...

you are overlooking the hy-drive gear ratios....they are 2.37; 1.68; 1.0; rev 3.73.1 with the application of the torque converter...the gearing was able to go to a higher set along with the rear gear being higher for a total combination of better gearing. You add this to the OD offered later and you truly have a spiffy set up...

first ----2.57 to 1 second ----1.83 to 1 third ----1.0 to 1 reverse 3.48 ---1

excellent.....my wagon body was very similar in regard to the rear pan. Did you cubby boxes also get eaten out at the bottom?

probably shares a membership of one.....and he can't stand looking into a mirror

station wagons of the original conception will always find favor in the old car hobby...just something about a long-roof that is so unique. Make that long roof a 2 door version and your are right, it lends just a twinge of 'sport' to the concept and why in my eye they find favor. I just not long back acquired another long roof...but it is NOT that long a car. It is also a two door and why I also find it appealing. There is nothing wrong with a 4 slammer, I just it is hard to place a personal attraction to that many doors.

been there...done that.....!!

as many here have stated, its is doable but why....you are going to run into enough difficulties making an engine upgrade as it is, why make it harder for yourself and further increase the cost by trying to maintain an older system that is outdated, low availability and supported mainly from specialty shops, much less shoot yourself in the foot and not be able to go into a big box store for replacement parts and risk stranded or towed home due to no parts across the counter and solely mail order. I will not say you should go either way....as it is your choice...but I do suggest you weigh your options and study the expected results a bit closer.

actually, now is the better season to drive down here....usually summer is way to hot to be comfortable

points today are some kind of plastic rubbing block at best where at one time I think nylon was the transition from phenolic....finding NOS phenolic is better overall but getting harder to source....this makes for frequent tune ups as many do not tweak the gap often enough to get the wear from the tungsten surface of the point due to accelerated wear of the breaker...Yes...I am guilty of that also...I need to install points in my 54 now....

boy...that quickly take the fun out of about everything....used the hammer drill I just bought at the pawn shop today.....

I still am able to don my mask and hit the flea market and of course the local pawn shop....I have a need for a hammer drill and the man who runs the pawn shop treats me most fair and stand behind his sales no questions asked. Bought a hammer drill just minutes ago on the way back from picking up my special order meta....not battery powered but 110V....I have little need for cordless but they do make some nice cordless tools these days.

wonder if T&B is Thomas and Betts