Plymouthy Adams

I admit that I was a bit more in the know, Charlie and I have discussed this a few time on the phone..I am anxious to see his 'burb when finished. To expedite his car being back on the road, he is not doing all he wanted to do this time around.

while you up get me some valium..this may take a bit...

make sure the light at the end of the tunnel is not your snowblowing nieghbor bearing down on you...

tell me we are not going down that path AGIAN...

to truly mix the paint properly you should have a viscosity cup..that said and following the quidelines of the manufacturer will get you there. HVLP guns are restricted by law for the end user (you) not to exceed 10PSI nozzle pressure..yes a larger hose will be needed for the volume..however the mini-regulator at the inlet to the gun is needed to ensure that the guns inlet pressure is maintained to keep the gun at 10 PSI nozzzle. I feed my gun through 3/8 line, my inlet pressure is 29 PSI for max 10 PSI and excellent atomization. (estabilished by the maker and etched onto the gun) You can go lower on the inlet pressure depending on the size item being painted and keep "bounce" to a minimum. Establishing good paint control and regulated inlets pressure will ensure after cleaning the gun you can go back to the same settings by counting the turns form seated to operational after assembly. Fine tune from there based on viscosity of media..DO install the regulator..keep dusting under control by not exceeeding the outlet PSI.

Charlie is just now installing the automatic and is not back on the road yet..the slipping is in reference to the before automatic when he installed the 3.23 gears and running with the clutch..

I believe you will find that to be the correct old world and still used in some contries spelling of the name "George"

Shipping charges are outrageous..I just sold a 49 front window garnish..packed it as concise as possible and yet ensure safe arrival..UPS 90 buckerroos..UP Postal..60.00 contacted the buyer..he says cut it in four pieces equally as its going in a chopped car anyway..so with that it will be about 22 shipping including a horn ring and center... These people are out for blood and then you have those that refuse to ship to Canada..somebody here knows what I am talking about...lol

Granted Norm..Heinz 57 variety at its best..a lot of effort went into the original concept of this car...and its a shame it is in the condition it is in..good post on the bumper Don...reminds me of my high school algebra teacher..bit, fat and unattractive.

YOM tag Norm has nothing to do with the time the custom was built...never implied that...has all to do with the registration of the donor car, they must match vehicle build year..why I think 55 may be the original car...would not think anyone would go to the trouble of matching front and rear plates just for sticking them on factor..the states that require matching tags for YOM even can be quite expenisve sometimes..and at this time I would think the tags have a greater street value and would be first thing stolen (maybe the only thing stolen) off the car if indeed it is parked as shown all the time. I don't think drugs were were available in the 50's to come up with this car...even purple jesus hadn't come along yet.

IF it is current registration and the tags on the vehicle are YOM tags..then it placed the car vintage at a 55 model..regardless of the donor car the vehicle is a bondo bandit with serious canker under the paint/layers. Even the door is has huge shrinkage circle cracks in the paint..very heavy paint on lots of bondo skimmed even on the door panels. Anyone entertaining this best have lots of patience, loved for body work and poor taste in vehicle shape and lines. At on time in its prime the car probably would appear a bit more fashionable..probably trendy in its original heyday..definitely a one of creation..I would venture to guess this car will only continue to go down hill from here as it does not have any real known nostalgic value like being featured in a movie...I am sure the owner has eyes glazed over with dollar signs estimating the cars value. Sad part is that the interior when done plus the top set the owner back a bit when new...time to donate this thing to the Kidney Foundation for a huge tax write off based on the posssible Barris vintage......

actually that soft Easter egg color looks very good on that car. I am a fan of lighter colors. As you get more and more of the trim back on the car breaking up the mass and defining lines..it will surely look good...as mentioned a contrasting green paint a shade or two darker on the wheels will compliment that paint scheme. You getting there...!

Randroid..I would suspect that RHD is for right hand drive and the rest is his particular Plymouth model...

I looked in my brochure..no reference to any temperature for application..so I looked on a can..none there either...so as long as it is thin enough to spread..go for it...at least that is what I gather...just not right..I would think 55F would be lowest temp I would apply if spraying..a bit lower if brushing...but not much lower.

bummer man...I was just looking earlier as I flipped through my wallet that my concealed weapons permit is due for renewal this year. Guess it all goes back to walk softly and carry a big stick..

I got a perfect score.."0"

thanks..info sent ...e-mail back at ya...

clean and clean and clean..use gun cleaning bore brushes..wash with soap and water and soap and water..and then rise..cannot get them clean enough..the oven cleaner will work..sounds like it has been dipped already at the machine shop..you just need the surface and handling oils off it..blow it dry and spray it with a moisture displacment (WD-40) after assembly of larger components..you can clean and paint then. if you are using your old pump..be sure to take it apart and clean it also..as long as it mic's to tolerance and not scored on the veins..put back. If scored..could result in lower oil pressure.. POR 15 web sites abound on theinternet..most info can be gleaned there..if not I have a brochure in the shop someplace...

I cease your dollar and raise you five...

completely disassemble..does this mean you going to rebuild it or just remove the bolt on accessories covers and such. If you are going rebuild, home version..then hot tanking would get it done..however cam bearing and guides get a bit of eaten in the process..you can use red devil lye, please use all precaustion in working with this stuff...it cleans deep within the pores of the cast iron. Comes out looking like new..As it is cast iron, it is porous..and like a cooking skillet..numerous heat up and cool downs will impregnate the metal and will cause oil to eventually be under your paint again..that grease film is not because momma is not washing the skillet..it is coming from the inside out and coating the skillet.

[quote What was it in it's better days?? a shinier butt ugly car...

Don..I know the phantom car he is speaking of and yes at this time consider it masked till Lou is ready to unveil it....enough said..don't ask me more.....

Try mounting your flasher to a solid part of your dash and use it as a sound board..should increase its audio. Flashers are load sensitive..not all the bimetal strips are the same but really should be close...you may be able to take your old one apart and tweak the curve in the metal and alter the rate of flash..what you got to lose???????

Louman..sent you a PM with some questions....I be interested

Norm..the drum is on the axle flange..putting the wheel on will only make the unit more secure to the axle flange..there will be no movement ....