Plymouthy Adams

John, I'd volunteer your other one for a duplicate Ute for myself...sorry...sounded like a good deal to me.. I have not be able to yet convinced the Royal Australian Air Force that for all my assistance I have provided on their equipment that a Ute delived to my house would be truly appreciated.

Brad..do you recall what model car it was that Jimmy Hoffa was buried in?

Trust me Norm..we know what ugly is..you nailed it with that call...that will be hard tire to push on the public..the webbing just may hold up for the rice burners as rubber will shed about as fast as the webbing I suspect would break down rendering the tire useless in both areas. If they become available to the public I can tell you this..the gansters and such will use them as they are very effecive when a spike strip is cast in their path..bump bump and still we go...

Most excellent..could be the glass of choice..for some reason I do not recall that on my 41 Dodge..but that was long long ago...And hey..as you have a spare..could be the makings of deal....

Locking brakes can result in the fact that the rubber line is collasped and pressure goes in to operate the brakes and as you slow and let up on the pedal..the fluid does not return quickly and as the need for heavy braking is lessened..the results are a locking up of the wheels....I highly recommend with a car of this age to go ahead and replace the three rubber lines..Advance has them at about 9.80 a hit..at least that was when I bought mine about 3 years ago..very cheap insurance..

Knowing that the removal and installion of the metal opening with the pinch weld was assumed...another word to the wise here is that most trucks of this era did not have a garnish molding but had an inner shell usually half way down the back of the cab..be prepared to cut both panels to remove the section..piece of chalk and a template to guide you will go a long way. Also find you a truck cab that has rubber available at a reasonable cost..

This was introduced long back..still not ready for the public it appears...not sure if they can stand up to the rigors of acceleration, braking and g-force associated with hard turns...lots of webbing there ready for ultimate tire failure. If this was any good I am sure the Navy would use it for anchoring their heavy componets to buffet shock from war and adverse sea conditions..I think they are still uning the cable coil suspension. Then again, it has been years since I was employed by DoD Navy.

Look to 50's pickup trucks for flatter smaller rear glass that may be more at home in your chop than a sedan or coupe glass... International has nice sized glass I know...

I have in recent time with the building of my latest shop addition installed some very spacious suspended shelves. I have my parts for various cars cleaned and boxed, marked on the outside as per application..this has gone far in helping me should I need to do a test fit of an item in the course of repairing my cars. I have slowing been able to also clean up a lot of my laydown area in the overhead in similar manner..I have areas dedicated for Sunbeam, Triumph, Plymouth, Dodge etc. for some of the larger items like seats, fenders etc. I have a long way to go yet but am getting there. Tools that I use but once in awhile are also boxed in metal tool cases and such with a number on the box and a list on a clipboard as to what is in what box. Originazation is a hard thing to do when you also stay rather busy working on a project of some sort. It is a dicipline that is hard learned and I confess I am not as diciplined as I should be. It is a slow process and I am happy that I am making progress in both areas. This takes lots of boxes though...but sure looks better plus the part is protected until needed.

I prefer butt welds..others overlay and drill holes to use Cleco clamps to hold panel in place...and then you have those that use the flanging tool that makes a recessed shelf for the panel to lie in and then weld..the key is fullperimeter weld for max strength and watertight integrity to prevent future corrosion. Actually I have used all the above and it is according to the area and how much room you have for working whatever clamp/device you use plus access to back of the weld for final prep. I do not care nor recommend pop rivets or sheet metal screws unless they are your only method to hold in place while welding and are removed after the weld and hole also welded in. Hope this links to my earlier post and shows the buttweld of the bear claw donor latches from the 91 Dynasty onto my 41 Dodge..these clamps are fantastic as they really will prevent a lot of sheetmetal buckling...and if you have access to the rear of the weld, very easy to use...I recommend you having these if you do panel repair.. http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=45

Shel..bless you..I feel so much better with my shop now... I have this problem of working out there till late..come in when I get tired..when tired me sleep..not sweep

Its a three passenger due to the roll bar...guess its for the babies safety seat...

This car for some reason does look familar...I like it for sure..however as our original Norm said..lose the roll cage..and install a decent back seat...this car is very well appointed..nice in and out..but I would have to see the before and during shots to invest the coin this car will bring...it is only about 2 1/2 hours from me...how many want to chip in and get it for me..I can send you pictures of it..gas reciepts, nah..make that send you gas bills...let you come view it (at your cost) and on your birthday a filmed burnout in your honor...hey ..how can you go wrong?

dupe listing..

nla

nla

Imagine that..thanks...Champion body..the smaller car..what a nose that car has..Jimmy Durante...eat your heart out....

I think Allan found a set of the factory replacement panel and yes they are correct curved..I also found a set of them for my Club coupe years ago..correct curve, indents/holes and rocker trim square holes...rest assured that these are very hard to obtain today.

OK..mystery buyer..who got the deal...inquiring minds want to know.. Sounded like one very solid car...

Mid year 1952 introduces the OD in Plymouth..6 volts I think through 1955..12volts afterwards through 58 in cars...you will see the R10 cast into the unit on the passenger lower side I think...not sure if the OD continued in use with the itroduction of the slant 6 engine...never followed these cars past early fifties..

I am not sure..at that time I think the DeSoto and Chrysler may have shared the same body...I think the Dodge may have been a mid line whereas the Plymouth was the smaller body..but again I am not 100 percent on this..just basing this on the last 49 Chrysler I saw...

So maybe a Dodge connection ...did not think that one mule could get all of Juan's coffee off the mountain and to the market...

that is determination....congrats...

350.00 is not in-law pricing..be sure and get your monies worth here..however..as a gentle nudge may be better than bursting through the door..ask you sister-in-law to inquire on the side about what they can do to help you out...

I have welded a set in as supplied by JC Whitney...for a 2 door..they went in without any real problem..better than the high dollar ones I bought and had to return to a major supplier..those were pure T garbage...of the two..and for the money..JC gets my vote.