Plymouthy Adams

The caps are different for sure..I like the crest on the 54..red and blue painted..to be so much the same in body style there was so many difference between the years trim wise...I have a set of 10" caps and full trim rings for my P15..at least that is what is planned so far...I have never but never beeen fortunate enough to locate a set of full dish 15's for the 52 model..

I noticed that myself...very little following for these years for sure...I kinda got to where I like them a bit more...I have seen a few really nice ones painted up in two tone that just "pop" so to say...

I stood on my head and looked at it..yep..now I see where you coming from...lol

unique...one of them there wrong side of the road cars...

I'm glad they made the newer model in 53/54..it was time for a styling change and a few things did carry forward. The loss of the split windshied and the non-bolted rear fenders were the drastic changes in the body. My 54 is actually a 1/2 year prduction as I read the history on Plymouth...it is the 230 with Automatic tranny. Did not get PS or PB though..the power steering would be primo addition. I have a set of 53 full dish caps here somewhere..drivers quality if anyone is interested...I liked the ship embossed on them and was going to put them on one of my cars but have since went another direction.

I have the full size dish on my 54 Plymouth...

You can drill a small by pass hose for the air to bleed...some new units come with the purge hole...some have the little jiggle rivet in it. It is a fast fill advantage on having to wait til lthe engine is hot and opened thermostat to purge, burp and fill with remainded of coolant. I have been doing this since about 1975..on some late model cars the unit is offset and must be indexed..be careful here...will block heater passages...

Nelson, really looks like you mending well, good to hear that...nothing like a cruise to clear the cobwebs from your mind and get back right with yourself. Enjoy...

Bob..you out to givesome old sailor a nightmare with the picture of that Nevr Dull can...that stuff was used by them for everyting shiney.

Congrats Dwight..now tell me..which one gets the coupe? Number 2 Grandkid for me born this past January...

Ed that is true, they all have their amount of problems again to add the fact that Norm speaks of relatives of old were rebuilding say 50 to 70 K area..hell they all did, part of the game with them all as material and work enviroment such as they were, dirt roads being very rough on engines....some of the old Chevies are still around because with the babbit poured rods they were parked on engine filure due to cost of repair...later taken out of the barn and given an engine that after 25 years of behind the tech curve finially got built by GM and was resurrrected. So you get unused bodies so to speak. Their latest head design they marvel over on perfornace is the exact same head that MoPar introduced with the poly engine in 1956...I have rebuilt a number of GM blocks..as I have with Ford and Mopar...my preference for them all is Mopar as they last the longest with longer MTBF than the othere with GM being at the cottom of the three. I no longer work in the auto industry as a repairman..thank goodness. It is a business of feast to famine..car repairs often get set aside for issures like back to school expenses, Christmas etc..

I did a search and found OSHA's page on lift accidents, being one post models of the old style, roatry, 2 post and 4 post lifts..twenty incidents on the page I veiewed, of that 19 were pure human error and failure to comply with saftey..the one was from a lift with NO safety latch incorporated in its design..there are no statistic of other lift failures listed where there was any latch failure..only human error...for any that works under a lift, have reason to inspect a car that is on the lift, ensure it is properly positioned and lift latch is in place and hydraulic pressure released..if the hoist is raised say a few inches above the latch and pressurized and the seal blow, the mass weight on the lift combined with the amount of freefall is enough to shear even the best of latches..even the slotted models have pivot latch for locks..the key here is safety. On the 4 post lift of mine I made one modification to mine that I think is safety related..that was to protect the fitting where the line had a through connector for the ram. I built a stainless steel protector that bolts to the rail and protects the hose fitting from failure should a item fall it will glance off and not shear, crack or otherwise damage the connector. Also protects from big fat feet stepping on it. Inspect your lift often..looks for indication of ram seal leak, frayed cables or pulley mounted at an angle, indication of pivot post failure.

Not sure the date MoPar came into being..however it is short for Motor Parts.. ie the combination of capital and little letters.. lile the old saying MoPar to you for Chrysler's sake

I have the three drip trays, jack tray and yes the roll away wheels. The assembly was a pice of cake. Recommend you have one bud to help..simple assembly. I got the heavier steel ramps...I highly recommend Direct Lift and delivered for that price..how can you go wrong. Be sure to properly level the ramps on assembly..this will prevent latch/unlatch problems. Never but never go under the lift until it has been lowered and latched into the safety catch on all four posts. The unit IS NOT designed for keeping the vehicle hoisted with pressure in the hydraulic hose...used with you wits about you this is a very safe useful tool. My unit is stationary but not bolted to the floor have never rolled it on its wheels. They are stored in the overhead above..I have been know to have my another car under one hoisted and worked on it without any problems..you just need an extra drop light on the average. I am very happy with mine..time to re-lube mine other than that no prob. I have mine on 110 operation..takes just under two minutes to hoist my 41 Dodge to the top safety latch.

I am thinking that the one from direct Lift is the most affordable unit on the market today..I have one as does Dennis on this forum..I am extremely happy with mine and don't know yet to this day why I waited so long to get one. The price for mine was 2100 delivered to my door. I don't think there are any cheaper nor any on the market that is a better made unit for the money. I have a 13 foot ceiling and find it just right for putting my mini van to the top latching notch while doing oil an filter/lube jobs.

nla

You could find me in any of the below registered/insured cars.. 2000 Town and Country 1999 Plymouth Voyage 1996 Chrysler Concorde 1993 Eagle Vision 1991 Dodge Ramcharger 1990 Dodge 250 Customized Van or on ocassion one of these..but not often.. 1966 Sunbeam Tiger 1954 Plymouth Savoy and if the weather is right and I am in the mood: 1984 Honda Shadow 700 1987 Honda 450 CMX (aka Rebel)

nla

you're right Norm..we have had a 350 block at the end of the boat anchor chain for years...best anchor we have found to date.. for the record..I have yet to go less that 200,000 thousand on my mopars without engine or tranny failure and try to sell them at about 220,000 while there is still life in them...of course this has only been family wide since i1961..some 46 years of trouble free cars...I cannot beleieve for a minute based on my years as a paid mechanic that GM could ever hold a record like that..especially when a GM would smoke without 10,000 miles of ower ship from bad stem seals on the vals...that's right..they got that fixed now..using Mopar umbrellas...this could go on but boat anchors will always be the best application of a GM block in my book...

whatever...they could not do worse than the Germans did...never have I seen such mass mismanagement in mylife.

nla

Have you run a compression check to see if all the valves are closing..these cars have a tendency to stick a valve open when setting for a long spell. The gas poured into the carb may by now have washed all oil from the rings and you are increasing your blowby lowering compression also. Suggest that you do a wet compression test..after that and good readings, you can also disconnect your coil from the car's battery and jumper in a second battery to power it. Reason is that if you have voltage drop due to bad cable or small cable coupled with a dragging starter due to worn rear bushing in the starter motor..the currrent drain is so great that there may not be enough reserve to power the ignition good...sounds funky? just remember where the power is coming from for the iginition. Without compression, the amount of fire/air/fuel is of no consequence. I you have splash fouled the plugs with raw fuel..good cleaning there may be in order.

According to my Rest. Spec catalog... picture 1 is 2444 Plymouth Body Belt Mold. 2 is B1174 Plymouth Body Belt Mold 3 is B108 Plymouth Hood Side Molding 4 is not identified but there are a few to match by physical size 5 is B1176 Chrysler Hood Top Center Mold.

I usually scrape old paint with a razor blade...especially if there is a hole nearby that will allow any stripper to get inside a panel...last thing you need here is to strip chemically, have some get insde..dry..get wet later after the primer/paint..and lift you new work totally ruining the job. As for abrasives, I do my finish strip with a DA sander so I will not get any sand scratches but gives the primer bite and of course use your favorite brand of acid to prep the surface. As for the inside..if you have a means to media blast ok..media will be everywhere and may not all get out..the surface at the bottom of the lip on the insde is the area most prone to rust..when you strip the paint feel and inspect closely for raised metal surface that indicates rust on the inner surface eating toward the outside...on my 48 the dick lid looked primo till I rubbed my hand over the lower left..felt a slight textrure..ground it out for the heck of it..was rust..ended up fixing the area with lead...my inner trunk lid I sanded by hand...

send me a reminder..I left the catalog on my desk at work