Plymouthy Adams

nla

I like that holder but these oil containers were not around when our cars were built..we had glass jars from bulk fill or round cans that had to be opened with a church key or self puncturing oil spout. I would like to find that holder you diplay over here..I have yet to see one..I usually lay an extra plastic quart container as shown in your pic between the battery and the firewall.

Mike..number one reason for the starter to drag is the rear bushing (end plate where the brushes are is worn to an enlongated state allowing the armature to drag). This bushing is available sometimes off the shelf at a NAPA store but if you have a local auto electric and battery shop..just carry in the end plate and get a new one.. Removable is easy..it is oillite material. very porous self oil bronze, score the old bearing down the side top to bottom and then drive a thin bladed screw driver between the bushing and the housing..it will crack like baked clay and come out..just intall new one, first soak it for some time in oil to fill all the pores..an arbor press is ideal for installation..however I have been known to use a socket flat end and tap them in place.

I have never been able to get withing 12 foot of a gator before he jumped and run...no joke and I have tried a many time..except for one instance in a 10 foot boat I had a moma gator of equal length after my butt and bumped the boat as I came around a bend and almost onto her nest...that one had me nervous...I used to put in at a landing at night that was wall to wall gators almost ..every 10 foot was a set of eyeballs looking at you when you skimmed the water with the light...they love frogbellies...go look that one up...Brad probably knows what is meant by gators and frogbellies...

when the points burn out..you have been warned..actually the first sign of condensor break down is that it will run and idle without problem out of gear..all the way through the rpm scale..however load it down and its instant fall on its face..will not pull itself off a spot of peanut butter...AC Delco condensors were notorious for this in the early seventies..only line to trust was KEM brand in the gold and yellow box...better points also as they had the phenolic breaker cam.

Frank..not sure of the reason the vendors did not show at your meet, but here local at our the cost of doing business went through the roof from the people renting spaces to the point that making a meet profitable for them was marginal at best. I know this for a fact as I have asked them in person when attending another swap why they no longer come to the afore mentioned site. Sad part is that the attendance is increasing, car coral attendance was up and gate fee was up...there is the ever present GREED factor running rampant. So in some degree the sponsors are forcing these people to turn to avenues like E-bay based on dollar return for dollar invested. All they care about is today, what's in it for me...not everyone has the annual return instincts like the Swallows of Capistrano...

seems like that is the way here..all the work left to do and the guilt that goes with putting it off....

The registery is not dissolving according to their own post below...but rather the group membership is dissolving. Appears as they will be a knit group similar to the owners on this forum. NOTICE: Effective January 2007 "Timber Tales" has ended publication and the club is no longer fee based, but simply a loose group of individuals interested in these great cars. Consider joining the National Woodie Club, I'm sure there will be informal meets for T&C owners in conjunction with their events. The Registry will continue to be maintained so be sure to update the Registry Editor of a purchase or sale.

I am not sure if they are saving money..I was told that this is the new rave in theft from the store...this is costing more including cost of install of these machines, paid monitor who cannot view everyone at once and loss of product yeilding a higher operation/loss cost to be passed on to the honest paying customer, not to mention the slap in the face of the efficeint low paid cashier. I had one cashier tell me that it would be faster if I used the self check out..and I told her if everyone did she would not have a job..two seconds later it hit her, she said thanks as she did need the job and never once put the two together.

I believe I read that Mt. Saint Helen's eruption caused more eco damage in form of pollutants in one day than we as an industralized nation have produced over the course of history.. Now what is greenpeace doing to prevent volacanic eruptions... On the pampers issue...I don't see plastic as a bio-de-garbagable item...and I would much rather step in an oil puddle than seeing one of these nasty fly drawing items that people leave in parking lots...matter of fact I hate all litter..the biggest litter producers today are the open top garbage truck that use the mechanical arm can grabber...roadside litter is a weekly ordeal along the main road to the landfill since they went to these contraptions that have put people out of work. Out of work people...how many use the self checkouts..you putting people out of work...refuse to use them..they go away and maybe some young mother of three can get a job... I am off the soap box..I NEED some more coffee.........

Rule of thumb is 10 lbs of pressure per 1000 rpm...idle is less than 1000...as long as you have pressure and it rises with the RPM..you should be ok. Are your main bearing fluttering on start up? This is a sure sign you need new inserts...even with this I have seen engines run for years with fluttering mains as long as they were not dogged to death. Oil comsumption can actually decrease as you don't have enough pressure to burn oil....lol (lighten up and laugh a bit)

Is that anywhere in the nighborhood of Pompano Beach??????? and where in GA is the block...

fins.....I think was the intended pun, the 57 was the first of the Mopes with tall fins at the rear.

You have to stop and think of three things..I think you have a handle on it. 1 The piston and crank and harmonic balancer is the same point and locked togehter by keyway on the balancer and the journal on the crank. 2 The timing chain times the crank/piston to the relationship of the valves with the camshaft 3 The camshaft drives the oil pump that in turn drives the distributor. That is how you can have the damper, slug the same, tooth off on the chain and the cam is out of whack..tooth off with the oil gear to the cam throws off the electrical timing of the didtributor.

as in a limo with rear divider glass etc etc...?

From the paint I have seen mixed after an optic scan on a handy dandy spectometer..you may be better off with a shelf color..Find the industry/commercial premix line and see what they have..Freightliner used a maroon that was nice...should be available over the counter. Most paint distributors have a premix color line. Now I am not sure what is going on with Ace Hardware in your area, eveidently they are the paint jobbers in your area...as I have never seen one in our neck of the woods carrying automotive quality paint. Is this like getting you salsa from New York City? IF you have a DuPont or PPG distributor in your area, the headquarters is just a phone call away. They may not have the color on the books, but it is very possible the factory does. A call to them will get their color library and a yes/no on the abiltiy to match your old colors. Sometimes the tints are no longer available to get the exact match..they can let you know..but your paint retailer is the only one who can call in...I have had good success with e-mail and have had the factory call me back in regard to matching paint for a 47 MG. Again..it is all in your retailer..our local PPG/Ditzler retailer here..well lets just say its definitely not Burger King....not even close...I shop there only as an emergency....

and I thought I pissed one of our readers off with my description while back...lol they have their own ideas and concepts...they have their good and bad... they are a bit rough about the edges at times.. they are a tight knit group who in all rights abide by a code of horor...the deals there are made with a nod of the head and your word...you are expected to do the same if you particpate..have had some excellent transactions over there both buying and selling. They are no where near purists in any sense..they have to have a cut off on vehicles also...at least they are more modern that the fat fendered folks who say 48 is the limit...our old Mopars are true fat fenders through 52..split window, rear detachable fenders etc...however..48 is the limit with them. I have seen some excellent examples of vehicles over there...seen some rough ones also.. That is why we have this forum, the HAMB, the POC and many many others...something for everyone..

The resistor I just measured on the fan switch here is 2.2 OHMS..and the wattage would be at minimum 5 watts. The wattage size will be the ability of the resistor to dissipate heat..the by-product of resistance. You could use a typical dropping resistor as used on a 12 volt ignition. To cut the motor speed in half you need the equivilant of the motor resistance inline with the battery..you can measure the motor windings and get a more accurate resistor...but in reality I think I would just grab a coil dropping resistor and try it out..it will be more than enough wattage for the fan motor...

IF..legistation and insurace companies are together in this two things can be done, first all get screwed..or based up on the speciality insurance companies like Hagety's..those vehicles so identified by them are reported back as a collector car with limited use and therefore continue in exempt status..those vehicles in daily driver status with normal insurance carriers will be therefore lumped in with the daily polluters and subject to testing. Much like some states that tax the value on the car based on age..after X yers the value is down to a minimum fee...some states refer to the collector car index listing the current fair market on the collector resulting in a higher tax..even though as we all know said cars are most likely sitting 80 percent of the time. Tax on vehicles is used to upkeep the roads and such and the dialy driver is the one burning down the road daily. Further this cause to the guy who had 10 cars..sure he can drive but one at a time but a policy needs written tothe extent that all is assumed on the road at one time...you got a license..you pay insurance on the license...you have two licensed drivers..you pay for two policies..state sells tags per vehicle..no problem there...this is about the only fair part of ownership.

You are increasing the potential for voltage drop..be sure to go heavier gauge cable..the negative will have to run the entire distance..the postive to ground can be a short cable from battery to a very good clean chassis ground. Then up near the engine you can ground the engine with a heavy ground cable to the chassis there. Also run a good ground strap for the accessories on the vehicle between the now new chassis forward ground point and body or the engine and body so as to prevent any ground feedback. Its gets nasty when a heavy current seeking device is searching for ground..

Merle..the pump is driven off a gear on the center of the cam shaft that is in turn operated by the timing chain as it connects the crank and cam gear..that is why a chain can get enough slop in it and have a direct inverse effect on theelectrical timing. Slop will allow running but a jumped tooth results in mechanical/electrical out of sync...

I have never seen this in any vehicle I have ever owned and trust me with the Sunbeam Tiger and the Ackerman angles that are exaggerated in that steering profile..nothing like this occurs there either. Something is not right...not that familar with the truck, but, does this have a idle arm on the drag link?

I went 44 pages deep on my nme without a direct reference to me...oh well...fill out your new community survey as circulated by the census bureau and you have zero privacy at all...them people just plain rude and invasive..elect to be a non-respondent...

Thanks Ed..I love using my oxygen/Acetylene torch...

I agree with Bob, first thing that popped in my mind was a jumped timing chain..I have seen this happen..at best you can get it to electrically match the crank/piston again but the valves are now opening and closing out of sequence, thus the snap crackle pop....you may have to pull the valve adjust side covers off to verify this along with a TDC guage set up in number six slug as you reposition your distributor at correct 7 o;'clock position. The cam will still be a bit hard to tell by looking here if out a tooth or so..you need the specs and a degree wheel..else removal of the timing chain cover would be best.