Plymouthy Adams

a few..can send them out from here..look for a PM with photobucket links in a few minutes from now.

At the last swap meet there was one selling these NIB for 40.00..very nice vacuum molded carrying case...he sold his inventory early...I expect him to be back with more this year....

For what it is worth..I met a vendor at a auto swap meet..he was selling the exact same units as JC Whitney..maybe that was where he got them...I clicked on your web link..did not see a picture of the rocker in question..rest assured however that all the ones I have seen for the 49-52's did not have the correct J-curve at the threshold..this is an item that can be duped only by stamping..a break will not recreate this curve..they are still workable mind you..average Joe won't notice...

Ahhh...come on Norm..be a real guy..know what I want folks to say about me 100 years from now... "Damn he looks good for his age..."

Gary is right..I upgraded my engines..I was fortunate to find a person who could use them..we both made out. I also hate to see then go to the scrap heap..but tripping over them get tiring also..most rodder are not even trying to get high bucks return to begin with..Gary, sure you don't need a D19 Town Sedan...look good at your place...lol

218 for the Plymouth is correct..the twin carbs..number of people running different things...they must be jetted correctly and sync'ed..you need a specail tool for that..don't leave home without it...I believe Ed posted the pic of the valve in question..that is the hot water control valve for the heater. As Ed stated..bypassing is not that hard..you can piut a nipple there..pluymb in a cable actuated aftermarket valve and continue to operate as normal..most parts houses have a book..ask to see all the control valves..pick one by inlet outlet size..cable op and physical size to suit your application.

any sealed container ith tubes in and out for you vacuum lines will do the trick..a check valve can be found in any junkyard..look in the vicinity of the vacuum booster or one going to the cruise control..most are about 1/2 in center..about 1 inch long overall..it is a check valve if you can suck on it and get flow..blow on it and get blocked port...fuel pressure gauges are also very common..any of the spped sectionof the chain stores should have them..if not check Summit out online...

Randriod..I have made just two this evening..but I am modifying my car and these home growns are everywhere..Installing the power window, door opening solenoids and bear claw door latches from a donor car plus the power door locks..too many to list. Even my door poppers are of a home variety as the ones in the kit were overkill and had no application for my vehicle..all my latch levers are custom bent as I did one door..I reversed it for the other and it installed like factory..sweetest part is that they all came from the donor car so I bent them all straight, used a weld wire for mock-up then bent the real deal. My relays are now mounted and I am in the process of assigning them a slot in the fuse box. Kinda cool out tonight..but we be out there for a bit... It is good that you were able to make your linkage and have it work...sure save money and be honest with you..anyone else would have to do the same as these old cars are not followed in the industry and you are left to your resources or pay out the yang to a shop. Good show...

That looks like the one I first learned to use...nice addition with the distributor machine..I got lucky and snarfed this unit up at the local school sealed bid auction.

Hey..not a prob...I had to go back and see if I had indeed listed it to begin with..lol..anyway sent PM with phone number so as to give you first crack..let me know if you call the man...may can arrange a closer inspection in your behalf.

Mike..while back I posted some pictures of the gauges as I was cleaning them up....the one shown was taken apart, then sandblasted..painted inside white..outside got a cold galvanize finish..new homemade gaskets and then back together again..if interested in the pics..I could find them and e-mail you at home. Though not finished yet I do have the new donor thermo-bulb for the temp sender and it has been already prepped for cut and install..just not done as of yet...I will be sleeving the union and using solder.. CORRECTION..THE DESOTO IS A 1940 MODEL IN CASE ANYONE WAS INTERESTED

As I said in the above..was thinking the window sticker siad 7500.00....I have never heard it run though the man offered to start the car. I informed him I was just kicking tires and as such would be wasting the man's time. The comment on the wheels I made is purely one of my own preference for cosmetics and no way reflect the condition of the wheel/tire. I just do not like red wheels..point blank ..case closed...I will never change my mind on that unless the car body color is red. It is an IMHO statement. I have no clue as to the road worthiness of the car...most are driven back and forth ocassionally between the town he has his business and the community he has his home..a distance of 12 miles approximately. I think I may have his number at the house yet...he also had a gorgeous 41 DeSoto for sale.

Nothing like a pedigree...this is a perfect opportunity to compile and preserve for the future..you doing good..congrats are in order...some find a diamond in the rough..you nabbed a "Pearl"

I am thinking the man quoted me 7500.00 price on that car......it is one clean machine..of course I did not do anything but the casual walk-around and snap these picture through the fence for someone else a few days later. The man is selling these from his fathers collection and this guy had some of the sweetest rebuilt cars in the area. Here is the one I got for my 41... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v79/bigaadams/NCcp1.jpg This is it cleaned up and the metal dash in primer... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v79/bigaadams/2008_0101Image0005.jpg No finished pic of install...YET...clock is finished http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v79/bigaadams/2005_1122Image0003.jpg can run other makes speedo.... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v79/bigaadams/2006_1029Image0002.jpg other gauges cleaned up nice also... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v79/bigaadams/2006_1026Image0018.jpg Look around..one will come up..this one may yet be available to you..the cost of the seats could break the deal though if the owner just has to have his cash back out that...farmed out items of this nature make re-coup very hard..

Mike..it is going to be hard to find a car with a more impressive dash than that D24...I like it so well that I am putting it in my 41 Dodge..The 41 dash in there is so-so..even harder to find a replacement part for compared to the 46-48 plus the 46-48 lends itself to late model speedo's without any problems at all. Shop around..I can tell you where a business coupe is that is in very good shape...I think it is still available..saw it just a couple weeks ago. If I had the spare change laying about I honestly think it would be at my house now. Of course I'd have to lose them red wheels before I got home with it...deduct 500.00 just for them alone.... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v79/bigaadams/2006_0816Image0002.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v79/bigaadams/2006_0816Image0003.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v79/bigaadams/2006_0816Image0004.jpg

Just tell the judge to wake you up when it starts getting interesting...

Actually Bob I think both seats have been recovered in a custom fashion and the guy was pretty good with the sewing machine..kinda hard to say without seeing the entire base of the seat...but the side looks right. Seems pretty much complete except for a fender brow and a lens..the air vent knob..now where did that come from?? You can talk and talk about this car but go over with a fresh battery, get the key and really check this puppy out..if that is not workable then the guy is not out to sell a car..but to unload a monster...yet..even at that if the price is right, you may still do wise with it if solid. You be the guy who knows what he can or cannot do..or can or cannot afford...plus your locale plays a role in price..chances are if he does not have a line around the block kicking the tires..you got leeway for negotiating...

I do wish there were made like Briggs and Stratton head gaskets..them things go forever..

Some things are just too hard to talk about so I won't say any more....

3rd attempt to answer dial up sucks..PM me..will send comment when I return home tonight

I believe you are referring to the Thresholds..these babies are rubber coated metal..these treadplates are being re-popped but I did not write down by whom...they are very expensive..I am thinking in the 500.00 plus arena.. I have seen these on e-bay at times also...maybe someone can comment on who/where the re-pops are being made.

Tim here...the 50 goes back to the wider rear gear..only the 49 got the short baby..I sold my 49 as it was stock and pretty and should stay that way...had I kept it it would have gotten V power and the car deserved better than that. Don't let a couple inches scare you in rear gear installation..positive offset wheels will will cure most track width problems..Backing plate to backing plate is just one meausrement..the actual width is different for width of the drum for large brakes add to overall..track can also mess you up as the positive offset wheels come into play on advertized stance of the model car they came on..you truly need to place you intended tire on the donor axle and get the track width..experiment with offset wheels to get the track you want..then put that sucker in the car. I have used a few different Mopar rear gears of varying width and my selection of wheels have made each and every one fit the wheel well without much ado. I cannot say though which is best for your 49..as I did not replace that axle..I did install wheels and wire caps from a 1988 5th Ave. on it for look, modern wheel and radial tires. Drove like a champ and the new onwer elected to keep them instead of the original wheels and cap/ring setup.

guess it could go either way..the clip extends below the rocker...I pushed up at the clip figuring the spring in the clip would allow slack so it would pop off at the top..either way..go slow and protect that trim...

Jack or no Jack..do you really know Jack.. here is the poser.. You are stuck in a cave, there was a cave-in..debris is so thick you could never tunnel out even if you had time and oxygen..however you do have a handsaw and a piece of wood..how do you get out? as a added touch..if you know this...PM the answer...I will credit right answer after a bit to allow people to take a stab at the answer...

They are bolted each end..the ones in the middle you push up on from the bottom and snap the trim off the clip at the top edge...be sure it is unbolted so you can get the flex you need to walk the trim off...