Plymouthy Adams

nla

There was a refinery fire earlier this week I think I heard from news running in the background...not only go up, but I feel it will be there a bit..that makes two of five refineries with damage in recent history..

OK..it peeked my curosity..had to look the dude up...guess that tells you I am not into TV......

I think if I was up to cutting the sedan..look for a sqaured off back and the grafting of a minivan rear lift gate..go for a neo-panel look. Then throw a few weasels from Who Framed Roger Rabbit in it and head off to Toontown blea blea blea..Thats all Folks

nla

Being able to visualize in your mind the finished product is indeed a plus..maiking it driveable for now should not be that involved if the engine is at least equal in compression across all cylinders. Fluid change and tune up, brakes is a definite area of attention..be sure these are RIGHT..this is your only real safety feature on this car. Swapping in a later engine and tranny is not hard..rear gears are also a quick change..Plenty of choices from Mother Mopar on late model rear gears..do not overlook the Dakota...Ford would be another possible change as the rear bolt patterns is also 5 on 4.5...Brake upgrades are available and reasonably priced..steering upgrade to R&P is also a quick job that will not kill the frame or alter the stock suspension unless you decide to lower the car's upright, however a slight change in the column will be required if you intend to use the same steering wheel and keep the overall looks of the car..it also is not that hard a job. If you do not have the space to tear this car apart and protect it while working these mods..suggest you do it in stages..

I have an old MP catalog here..cough cough..billet aluminum 160.00...lot of jingle for a filler..

I Know A Secret....!!!!!!!!!!!

I would use two side tape to protect that area not to be painted..why..it is heavier rubber tape and the media bounces off it more so than eat through. The stainless will get a good foot etched into the material for paint to adhere.

If you are talking about the spring steel..that may be a bit rough to make..that stuff be brittle..I have not seen any out there availble either...

Few weeks back, some may remember, I mentioned the new person with the very "catchy" name to say the least..I noticed a lot of new members that may be very well on the up and up but.."just have not built up any points yet" Some others...very suspicious...........IMHO We exist to share and help others..however I remember before I made my first post, I read pages upon pages of topic question and replies to get a feel for the forum members and the attitude of the forum in general..it is time well spent..and I highly recommend it to any new member..there is gold in these veins..one has but to dig a bit..

I think you need to park that taxi at my house..it looked right at home when you were last at the house with it. With our highways here in the south..go for it....you be ok.....and if you get caught in a hilly area..stay in third gear.

I have never been one to just take an engine to the max just because it can be done..I believe in longevity..any refresh/rebuild that requires cylinder attention should only be addressed as what needs to be done to correct the problem with mininum effect to long life. Same with shaving heads and blocks..this is reserved for the eventful need to correct for slight warpage...unless you building an all-out racing machine, the results in going max versus the inprovement you will see on the street is just not cost effective. Better iginiton, better breathing (intake/exhaust manifolds) higher lift cam with longer duration and improved carburation..will net you some pep without sacrafice to the metal in your motor. Mind you you will lose headroom for lift with milling of head and block. Of course..if you just got to do it..then hey..go for it..it just an old engine..rodders throwing them out daily...thats the beauty of the industry..one does this, another does that and everyone wins in one way or another. The little 4 and 6 cylinder engines out there today..screamers in the pure sense of the word...some are so-so engines and the so-so will be here long after the screamers are gone..the screamers are 90% plus designed interferrence fit..not a good combo when the rubber band breaks...there are a few that are plenty powerful and non-interferrence fit..this is the trade off. RMA Reliability, maintaibilty and availability...that is the true test of a machine.

John..dropped you a PM..the dash will tone down in appearance after all the stuff get bolted back on..you will like it in the end.

nla

nla

If you wish to drive your car..and maybe so at night..wiring is a upgrade that will be of first vlaue for you..prior to any interior work..I recommend the repair of the flooring..if heavy body work is needed I also recommend that prior to interior..you may paint before or after interior work..however keep in mind that threshholds and jambs may take a lick during iinterior work and..removal of panels and such prior to paint gives the car a smoothness in the overall looks that cannot be accomplished with interior in place. Driveshaft..how much vibration and can you live with it. Vibration is a bit rough on things. Split manifold...if that is a high mark on your particualar list..also prior to paint to eliminate any possible "slips" when removal and installation time comes around.

Lou..I thought I had answered this earlier in the morning but guess I hit the wrong button. I have read that the 3.54 was available in the 54 Plymouth BUT only with the automatic transmission and the larger 230 engine setup. The standard shift was still standard 218 and 3 on tree, in other words just a carry forward. I cannot state this as 100%..only what I have read...this is according to my service manual...if you luck into a Hy-drive unit..this is supposed to be stock with 3.73 ratio.

Satellite convert..man I am sure you miss that ride..they are a very nice size car..great looking body also...last of that styling era... My son has not warmed up to the old cars yet...not sure if he ever will. There is always hope though...

Chet..sounds like you son-in-law is one of them.."Why earn respect when you can buy it" type..he surely misses the point all together..its not an old car..it your pride and workmanship in form of an old car.

I just go look in the barn and shop..two Sunbeam Tigers, 4 Spitfires, 1 GT6 and though they are still at the barn at my bud's house, 3 Triumph TR6's. One of them is the 386th car made..really pretty early production number..too much junk I have..but fun and am able to always get my money plus out of them should I have/decide to sell. Two of the Spits are bodies only..but real solid bodies. Typical floor rot only..quick fix as panels are very cheap for these rides. The English have made some remarkable looking small cars over the years...despite LUCAS electrical...they have survived and get great following.

The back will drop when you floor it...

nla

nla

Never traveled a train in the US...however I did a bit of rail travel in Germany..the run up the Alps was fantastic and it was winter skiing season...twas a fun ride indeed..we really need more rail service in this country...keeping to a schedule would be the hard part here..you can almost set your clocks by the trains over there..