Plymouthy Adams

The measurement are as such..the hole fo rthe bulb is 5/8..the hole base flange is 7/8 square then is ground round on the end. The S shape is 1/2 high..the boottm mount flange is 5/8 inch to the bevel..the bevel is another 5/8 angle length and the end cut is 5/16 wide, the lower tab is overall 1 1/8 inch. Compare these against the photo link. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v79/bigaadams/2003_0101Image00022.jpg

hang on a minute..when my movie goes off I will snap a shot of it...can put my hand on it very easily.

it is just a small metal piece with a hole for the light socket to snap into...I have one in the shop....easy to make..it is mounted with the same screw that hold the lens to the housing.

Amen on the all tires not equal. I have only been disappointed one time in the line of tires I buy as replacements..I got the LT series tires for my Ramcharger..they are mushy mushy mushy..I do not have a firm ride like my previous tires had..it makes this truck almost unsafe to tow my car trailer...I do not have many miles on these and thus feel that when it comes time they will go on another of my vehicles with less gross weight and just buy new tires for the Ramcharger. I know that there is no way I will buy a Goodyear..nor a Firestone...now when it come to some of the high spped tires..I had Avons on my turbo car..very soft compund but handling was superb..I found overall performance, long wear, daily driving and cost..that B F Goodrich TA/s were the better tire.

Nile..no snow..we did however have rain last night and it is still coming down out there now..actually it is a bit warm...as long as we have the cloud cover we will fair well. Hoping for a nice day at the swap meet tomorrow. Buddy is visiting..we made a run to Harbor Freight this morning...now am waitng for Gary Dahmer to come by the house.

Wll I admit I had no clue to what it belonged to but I also KNEW I had seen one and not so long ago..after a good nights rest and seeing this picture again this morning..I reach for the trinket box I have here and put my hand right in and pulled one of these bad boys out...

I agree..the grille of the 41 is just fantastic design...I bought an original survivor 2 door sedan and let one of the forum reader here talk me out of it..of them all I think they are prettier than the coupe...at least they are harder to find...at least I got to drive it around in the orchard..lol

I came across a couple retailer online that will sell you a solid sate vibrator..do some more searching and stay away from the repair shops if at all possible. They make their money on labor on the assumption you don't know what you are doing and if you do they refuse to sell the part..catch 22..happens all the time..in all speciality trades. Thought I need a vibrator till I read the trouble shooter guide..all I need is a tube and I have yet to look it up ..I have 2 large boxes of tubes upstairs that have been around since the 40's...

Dwight..checking the valves is something you may want to do soon. The absence of noise is the first indication to adjust..the gap between noise and safe operation is very narrow. I would rather hear a slight tick as opposed to burning a vlave that is not quite seating when at operational temperature..my old saying is "I'd rather hear them than burn them." Back in the day when I had my last mechanical small block Mopar..I would check them babies about 6000 miles..maybe over kill but as a kid you liked tinkering on the engine anyway. Keep in mind that the seats are hardened..wear by cupping the valve face actually lengthens the valve as it now sits lower in the seat closing up your safety gap..last one of these engines I heard run was very quiet and smooth as silk at idle cold but would get a bit rough at temp..I personally think that the valves were in need of adjustment on that engine..often this is the first indicator of the valve getting a bit tight and when engine is at temp the valves expand (grow further reducing your gap)and are are barely held off seat. Prolonged opertion in this state will cause a rapid deteriatation of the valve face.

If you ain't the lead dog the view never changes I have this on a t-shirt..love it by the way..this shirt is from the Citadel in Charleston...(think south end of north bound bulldog) They had another when the first female cadet entered..could never get my hands on one as they did not last...surely a collectors item and being sensitive to the ladies that may frequent this page I will not quote the slogan... Brad Lustig..you remember this shirt?

The HAMB is different..and so are a couple of the other forums I am on..each has its own personality. If you rodding or customizing..the HAMB is the best source for info and the creativity is just un-real..from the wild to the traditional. I have had a few deals with the HAMB people and straight up every one of them..little rough around the edges but sincere and honest. They are good for staying in touch and keeping tabs with your project. Lots of how-to over there..I am glad they are there...I drop in there almost daily as I write and answer a lot of PM's. There are some that think I knock the HAMB..but its just the opposite..they just marching to a different tune 95 per cent of the time in regard to what I do with my cars, but...I still hear their music.. For the old Mopars..I truly feel that this is the best clearing house for info bar none.

Happy Gilmore is an icon...so many one liners in there...

that just because you have on one shoe Norm...(Happy Gilmore)

Just to get on track early..send me your glass measurement...there are a number of usable items on that 53 that may make it worth picking up...anyway..work out the detials on that later...send me a PM

If you have a large inventory..might be cheaper than vinyl siding... I have a set of Texas plates here 1966 front and year...I am not sure if Texas will allow YOM that year or if we have a Texas reader here...but if interested..PM me...also got a set of blak and yellow california tags..should have the registration card yet also if I look hard enough...came on my 49 Plymouth...

I was in the mideast and brought back two sodas..one was a Coca Cola that was bottled in Kuwait..(kept in in case it stayed Providence 19, Iraqi name) and the other is an Oman Dew...label is as Mountain Dew..it too suffered the fate of your can in that it rusted out but otherwise pull tab intact...

That gonna be a tough ticket...Steele does not even list an application for 53/54 years...so no comparison there..as for the front glass..could be the same..the side vent windows are different as is the top of the frame..glass however could still be all the same. I cannot answer but I can compare with my 54 if you send measurements... Thbere is a 53 in my neck of the woods, I think I remember the glass as good and it even has OD..could be worthwhile if he cannot find anything.

nla

What would be more fun is to bury the 46 car with a 2006 penny...really keep them guessing..

Do not use ohm scale with voltage applied..spell this fried meter Using volt/ohm meter you can check for continunity between the input and base of the sending unit,(ground) and while in ohm mode (no power applied) there should be as he states 10 ohms at one end and about 90 ohms at the other with a smooth changing across the scale as you go from one end to the other...this checks out only the sending unit...to check your guage, you can do it two ways..ignition on disconnect your wire at the sender..guage will read zero..ground your wire and watch to see if the needle will start to rise..if it does, remove from ground at about 3/4 mark to allow it to cool off..this check both the wire and the guage.. the other method is to connect a 10 ohm resistor to ground and read scale with ignition on...connect 90 ohm resistor to ground and read scale..should be full deflection. If neither of the test shows anything you may have an open wire between the gauge and sender or bad ground at the tank..repeat test with a jumper wire to a good known ground.. report your findings...

That Amphicar is the first I have seen with a boat registration number on the fender..that would mean a dual registration???...there were quite a number of these on the roads in Charleston SC when I first moved there in mid 60's. And yes there are highly sought after today.

Bob..here are three pics Pic of butt weld clamps and cleco set up: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v79/bigaadams/2003_0127Image0001.jpg Picture of the clamp in question..exploded view: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v79/bigaadams/2003_0127Image0002.jpg Picture of clamp in action this is how it maintains your gap and still holds your stock: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v79/bigaadams/2003_0127Image0003.jpg You should be able to see the Harbor Freight part number on the bag of new one that I show. By and far an excellent clamp IF you have access from both sides so as to retrieve the square bar.

not yet but give me a bit of time and will post them...you may find them on the Harbor Freight home page..either way..I will send phot and their part number later..catching a bit to eat and will be back in the shop in a bit.

As George does the work and stands by what he does..a quick call would probably go a long way in getting down to what may be the problem...

David..talk about a flashback..I purposedly buried a couple Hotwheels when I was a youngster..now I wonder if they are still there..them things be nigh onto 45 years old.