Plymouthy Adams

that yellow thing is just too brash, looks more like a cartoon than a car...would have to be a little more subtle..maybe two center teeth on the outsides and one outside in the middle would at least make it look like it was smiling...I hate say this but the design team was asleep those two years...across the entire Chrysler lineup..

The three big teeth and the middle bar and that forever frown is detracting...I liked the ealier lower hood trim with the plastic letter but they are in most part found only in very rough shape..lending the later stlye to be more popular. these cars do not have a great following..not much has been doen to them that I have seen..not to say it has not..just not aware is my statement. Ed..contact me off line we discuss a few things about the opening that I think may lend a better overall look..but then..beauty is only in the eye of the beholder...

thats a lot of plumbing...Rotor Rooter special..do you have lever control coutout valves installed?

to repeat myself..the 49/50 is the better looking front end of the four years that basic shaped body was made..the 49 bing the most narrown in wheelbase and the fancier front grille due to mainly the mass amount of trim. Ah the 50..its grill is very smart looking and is evidence that little is indeed much..I have a rod-approach idea for grille to the 51/52 that I am not ready to discuss as I have not taken my spare clip yet and tweaked it any..even the 53 and especially the 54 model has it all over the 51/52 Sad Sack look..its these very difference that keep each model alive and with their own following. I probably would not own a 51/52 except for my father having them when I was a child..plus it and myself coming into the world about the same time. So them being ugly I did get a Clup Coupe and the Suburban..both two door models..that alone gives them some social redeeming qualities.

nla

the width, front and rear. slope and such is radically different..would be a very extreme method for getting a sloped hood..I have owned a few 49's and still have a couple 51/52's..sorry but the 49/50 hood design with the peak is in my book a superior look and I would retro fit except again, the above metioned differences. The 51/52 have a sad sack appearence in the grill..their biggest drawback to ownership..definitely not stylish...these two years are an ownership of nostalgia more than for looks.

Perhaps you can go/phone a local machine shop and get their recommendation..it may be very hard for us to recommend a product here as you just stated, may not be available there...or go by yet a different trade name. One of the disadvantages of not being on the same rock.

Has been like forever since I used any of this but one of the better sealants we used in the past was Permatex...non hardening type. I want to say it wa known as #2??????

at that size...a dozen of them and THEY have a meal...you...1

Yes..you are correct..this panel is for access to the valves...

No..only thing you will have is funky gauge readings...GIVEN..the positive wire on the guage is correct and has not been futz with..

I am very happy you enjoyed the book...it has been many years since I have seen a copy.

Reg..they should be color coded..if not able to detect the color...you will want to use your ohm meter and a jumper wire.disconnect both wires on the sender..only disconnect one wire on the guage......jumper this wire to ground under the dash..go to the trunk and read the wires..the one reading to ground back there is the same as the front grounded..hook this to number as indicated on the guage..the other well you know it has to go to the other terminal... the third wire on the guage is battery in..don't mess with this.

believe you will see a 1 an a 2 on both the guage and the sender..they should hook accordingly...the tank must be grounded well..I mean real well as the wiper is on the inner housing that is connected to the outer plate by way of three rivets ..there is a gasket between this plate and housing and the sender and the tank...ie the need to ensure the ground is superb. be bery bery erratic otherwise if you read at all...

Jim...don't ever go visit a body shop...they will bring tears to your eyes. I for one will never top coat a car and then see if we have errors...not cost effective...primer is porous...but only to the extend it will hot hold out LONG TERM

Old titles are transferred as a Collectible document suitable for framing..end use is subject only to the buyer...not seller...SO I AM TOLD...transfer a matching body number and it curtains... Dealing in titles is not hard when the states refuse to title a vehicle that is 1984 and older...bill of sale.....some Pixie dust..coin or two and you have a title... The number plates..yeah...not supposed to have them off the car and in hand...and I know of no one breaking this law..cough cough..crossed fingers etc etc.

Good point Pat...maybe we need a shot of Pete wearing sandals..this could be incriminating eveidence...

that little shop helper is looking for his original water mark on the tires...

I prefer wet sanding with a squeege on the side..the squeege will highlight any pinhole that is not visible in dry sanding. As you wet sand you can rinse as you go..the water will produce a gloss that will simulate the very appearance your top coat is going to provide you..ripples, depressions and such is amplified. As I cannot see your gelcoat finsih on the glass fenders, I can say a lot of glass products are very rippled/wavy druing lay up...suggest you try wet sanding..if you have trouble seeing what you need or just not confortable, dry it off and proceed with a familar process. Dry sanding in my experience will result in the paper loading up...these little dabs of dried paint stuck to the paper actually will scratch your primer.

This is not a common generic style sender..probably your only sorce for this may be NOS or Atwater Kent I think was mentioned at another time. This unit has a constant value resistor mounted with a floating (float arm) ground that divides the resistance as it moves so that whatever is on one side of the guage, the balance is felt on the other across the resitance spectrum. (approx 28-30 ohms) ie 10 on A 20 will be on B 15 and 15 or 25 and 5 etc etc...

your noise explained in the above could lead you to believe excessive bearing clearance for sure..as you have not yet been able to plasti gage them all..it is still a guessing game..process of elimination is painfully slow and can get costly...hopefully you will find it fast. As your engine is apart right now..the link I just sent in may not help you at the minute..I do like the use of the timing light to sync the noise as you ground the cylinders. Sound can travel and amplify...sorta off subject here but I would have sworn I had a nest of squirrels in my den overhead..I mean right in the corner..If I got up to investigate it seems to go away..sit back down at my computer and here they go again...two months later and the babies are still there...I say wait a minute..little trespassers should be grown by now..just by luck I was standing in the doorway opening to the front porch..I have a windsock there..it was barely moving BUT the metal clip was riding on a cast iron bracket right where there was some flash metal...it was resonationg and as it was mounted to a heavy oaken beam that ended about 1 foor inside my den overhead..it was acting as a sounding rod..squeaking like furry little critters. I would have lost money on the bet I would find a nest of varmints overhead. Luck to you Pete..sure you will find it..not that much moving down there when you stop and think about it...

Here is an interesting read on the subject..good head on approach with finding the problem foremost with less cost for parts/tools eating your budget. Chrysler mech said that my 2.5 4 cylinder was diagnosied as wrist pin noise..inherent to the design, nothing can be done.....matter of fact they all slap their silly little pistons was the answer..just keep in mind the the silent chain is not always silent.....enough said here...funny how the same pistons, inserts etc just shut the hang up with the new guides and proper tension. Only reason the car was at the dealership was a EGR recall and I mentioned the noise...220,000 miles later...these same wrist pins are still in there...we allhave stories like this I'm sure..any way here is the link...... http://www-personal.umich.edu/~jfarrugi/images/vanagon/engdiagnosis.html

Have you considered the possibility of a wrist pin knocking?

Some states are very very tough on vin number removal for any reason..it is illegal period point blank bar none. If evidence of removal for repaint even and affixed back in place...can cause for car to be destroyed by the state..yeah..check it out..this is for real. While working the electrical upgrades on the 41 I noticed that mine is riveted in place but appears to be the same type that is used on the cowl lacing..can be taped out from behind and put back in place...it is best if keeping a car inoriginal form but painting, to show the immediate area about the tag with original paint and untouched in anyway..I would like to refinsih my number plate but will probably leave as it where is...

I agree Norm..some catalogs and retailers that are SPECIALITY shops like to gouge out the yang..take those welding clamps I showed not long back 4 for 30.00 from a certian state of the art retailer for body repair versus 8 for 4.99 at Harbor Freight and they are the same product. I somehow got a mailing list..sure it was through a certian magazine I subscribed to..they feature 165MPH bar stools etc..file 13..never crack the binding..